[cpjet]

Actually found 2 freeze plugs laying in the bottom of the boat. I KNOW what a dumbass. It got down to 16 & 18* a couple nites last week. I was busy making sure pipes were wrapped on my house & at the wifes shop & forgot all about the boat.
I checked the oil after fixing freeze plugs & oil was slightly milky like from normal condensation. I ran to the lake & ran it on the trailer for 5-10 minutes. Checked oil & didnt seem any worse , so I made 2 1/2 passes, put on the trailer & checked again. Seemed just a little milkier. Went home drained oil overnite , put new filter & fresh oil in & ran it on the hose. I ran it for 10- 12 minutes with thermostats in the heads reading 175* . Again slightly milky. Maybe from left over residual condensation ? Can I somehow pressure test it to see if I cracked the block ? . What else can I do b-4 I have to tear it down. As stupid as it sounds , can I used the bucket method to circulate warm water thru the engine with some moroso block sealer or would I just be asking for it ? This is a real bad time for me to have to tear the block down or find another, I been off work since Sept. from shoulder surgery

 

[Fiat48]

Well....just so you know...freeze plugs is a nick name....they are sand cast plugs to get the sand out while casting.
Anyway....might try pressure test by making some caps for the water outlets and try 20 lbs or so of air pressure. Might give you an idea anyway.

 

[cfm]

Solid freezing at those temps usually mean a cracked block. Hope you got lucky, but being from the north where those temps are routine, I'd say you have very little chance of escaping damage.

 

[cfm]

Oh, you'll have to check everything that coolant/water runs through...oil cooler, ps cooler, hoses, t-stat housings, fittings, water pumps, etc,etc,etc...Ice can move and break anything it wants.

 

[Factory1]

I've got a blown freeze plug story to tell.....Just over two years ago, I got my hot rod running. It's a 1969 Dodge Coronet R/T I built a 493" stroker motor for. Edelbrock heads, solid cam, 4spd, yada yada yada. Anyways got it running around Thanksgiving '07. Two weeks later I take it to my companys Christmas party. I give many people thrill rides frying the hydes off of it. I'm rolling back up the the shop after one said thrill ride and one of the boys and his lady are walking up, and he says "Light em up Cush". So a little R's dump the clutch and nail it. ( It's around 9:00pm and dark out) About 20 feet into the burnout, the lights go off as well as the motor. WTF I'm thinking, than BOOM!!!! I clutched it and turned into the next parking lot bringing the car to a stop with smoke belching out of the hood. All Wiley Coyote like I grab my fire extinguisher that I mounted on the drive shaft hump behind the shifter (in case such an emergency) jump out of the car and start hosing down the engine compartment. I empty the small extinguisher and step back all proud. Thats when I notice a fire under the rearend near the gas tank. I panic and visions of my hotrod burning to the ground come to mind. I scream at the kid who was with me " Go to the shop and get more extinguishers!!!" I rip off my jacket, dive under the car, and use it to start snuffing the fire. Thats when I see the emergency brake cable glowing! Holy Shit this is electrical I realized, out from under the car I popped, opened the trunk, and ripped off the battery cable. The glowing subsided, but I realized I was now covered in anti-freeze. By now a handfull of guys showed up, and we pushed the car over to the shop, and locked it in the welding bay. I proceeded to get hammered, thinking I had just toasted a fresh engine. The next day I got a flatbed to deliver it home. I removed my water temp gauge and screwed in the hose from my compressor. I turned the reg down to nothing, opened the valve, and slowley turned up the reg. When I heard hissing I walked over to the car. It was clear as a bell, and coming from down below. I jacked up the car, slid under it and walla. Freeze plug blew out, the one behind the starter. When it blew out, it went straight into the main positive lead, putting the entire car to ground. It fried every wire coming off the motor, and then some. I was able to drop the starter and drive in a new plug. Than I did an old road racing trick, drilled and tapped a hole on either side of the freeze plug, and secured a metal flat plate over it. I could tell from the plug that blew out, I had rocked it when it went in, and didn't help its chances of survival. Long story huh? Sorry, I hope it was enjoyable though, I try my best to entertain, F1~

 

[IMPATIENT 1]

Actually found 2 freeze plugs laying in the bottom of the boat. I KNOW what a dumbass. It got down to 16 & 18* a couple nites last week. I was busy making sure pipes were wrapped on my house & at the wifes shop & forgot all about the boat.
I checked the oil after fixing freeze plugs & oil was slightly milky like from normal condensation. I ran to the lake & ran it on the trailer for 5-10 minutes. Checked oil & didnt seem any worse , so I made 2 1/2 passes, put on the trailer & checked again. Seemed just a little milkier. Went home drained oil overnite , put new filter & fresh oil in & ran it on the hose. I ran it for 10- 12 minutes with thermostats in the heads reading 175* . Again slightly milky. Maybe from left over residual condensation ? Can I somehow pressure test it to see if I cracked the block ? . What else can I do b-4 I have to tear it down. As stupid as it sounds , can I used the bucket method to circulate warm water thru the engine with some moroso block sealer or would I just be asking for it ? This is a real bad time for me to have to tear the block down or find another, I been off work since Sept. from shoulder surgery

pull the spark plugs outta the motor, block off the outgoin water hose, and use the house water hose to pressureize the ingoin water hose to the motor, let it set a bit then crank it over, look for water shooting outta plug hole and check for clean water in the oil. i generally drain the oil and just leave the plug out, that way if there is a block crack, i'll see the water start running outta the oil drain hole pretty quickly.

 

[GT Jets]

You never said what motor, but the brass plugs are actually called Welsch plugs and depending on whether or not the block was totally full of water would determine if it's broke...Really it's a 50/50 deal...

Small and big Chevy's break in the lifter valley, sometimes on the front exterior corner of the block...

Ford's don't seem to be as consistent, Have seen cylinders, exterior block surfaces and the timing cover for examples...

A quick pressure test is the only way IMHO.

Still sucks Unsure

 

[cpjet]

pull the spark plugs outta the motor, block off the outgoin water hose, and use the house water hose to pressureize the ingoin water hose to the motor, let it set a bit then crank it over, look for water shooting outta plug hole and check for clean water in the oil. i generally drain the oil and just leave the plug out, that way if there is a block crack, i'll see the water start running outta the oil drain hole pretty quickly.

I'll give it a try. I ran it on the hose again yesterday for 20 minutes , varying the water temp from 160- 180. Seemed to look a little milkier.If it is a crack it must be awful small ? It would be alot easier if it would just milk the crap out of it so I can move on .

 

[IMPATIENT 1]

I'll give it a try. I ran it on the hose again yesterday for 20 minutes , varying the water temp from 160- 180. Seemed to look a little milkier.If it is a crack it must be awful small ? It would be alot easier if it would just milk the crap out of it so I can move on .

it'll take alil presure building up in the block to show a crack, maybe you'll get lucky and the freeze plugs did their job. quik pressure test will show ya though, i wouldn't yank the motor till i was sure, you just may have alil luck in 2010bulb

 

[cpjet]

You never said what motor, but the brass plugs are actually called Welsch plugs and depending on whether or not the block was totally full of water would determine if it's broke...Really it's a 50/50 deal...

Small and big Chevy's break in the lifter valley, sometimes on the front exterior corner of the block...

Ford's don't seem to be as consistent, Have seen cylinders, exterior block surfaces and the timing cover for examples...

A quick pressure test is the only way IMHO.

Still sucks Unsure

BBC.........As far as pressure test with air, should I just block off water inlet & outlet , fill it with 20lbs air & watch air gauge & see if it holds ?

 

[GT Jets]

BBC.........As far as pressure test with air, should I just block off water inlet & outlet , fill it with 20lbs air & watch air gauge & see if it holds ?

If you can even get it to 20# I would call that good news, 10# would be more than acceptable (air moves easier than water), if it is cracked, the pressure would escape quite rapidly...

Block the outlets of the t-stat, put some air pressure to the inlet tee (or crossover if that's what you have) and listen carefully. Also pull the spark plugs like IMPATIENT 1 stated (in case it's a cylinder).

More than likely going to be in the lifter valley. I have literally done dozens of freeze repairs due to a frost several years ago, only a couple of engines that blew the plugs out were not broken...

Good luck!

 

[Big Inch]

pull the spark plugs outta the motor, block off the outgoin water hose, and use the house water hose to pressureize the ingoin water hose to the motor, let it set a bit then crank it over, look for water shooting outta plug hole and check for clean water in the oil. i generally drain the oil and just leave the plug out, that way if there is a block crack, i'll see the water start running outta the oil drain hole pretty quickly.

That is exactly what I did after overheating my motor except in this case I never even showed water in the oil.

Here's what happened about 2 minutes up the river after we put it back in the water.

http://www.performanceboats.com//showthread.php?t=55690

Check it with air pressure if you can is my suggestion lol.

 

[jetboatperformance]

This is a Stant automotive pressure tester we've adapted and have used for years for this same purpose , fill the block from the top with water ,close/plug or pinch off all in and out lines water (except one) pressure it up like you would any cololing system and see if it holds pressure These tools are readily available, most big auto parts places even maybe "loan them" Tom

BTW the fact that the frost/core/freeze plugs "blew" is a good thing in a way, it may have actually saved the block for you

 

[cpjet]

I made a pressure tool with an air pressure valve stem & a gauge & screwed it into the block. Then I capped off the other 2 outlets & aired it up to 20psi. It held at 20lbs for 50 minutes. After 1 hour & 15 minutes it was at 19 lbs. So what ya'll think ?

 

[IMPATIENT 1]

I made a pressure tool with an air pressure valve stem & a gauge & screwed it into the block. Then I capped off the other 2 outlets & aired it up to 20psi. It held at 20lbs for 50 minutes. After 1 hour & 15 minutes it was at 19 lbs. So what ya'll think ?

go buy a lotto ticket cuz you's a lucky sucka sounds good, run it!

 

[cpjet]

go buy a lotto ticket cuz you's a lucky sucka sounds good, run it!

LOL ....That's what Keith said. You sure thats enuf , no need to pressure test with water ?

 

[GT Jets]

LOL ....That's what Keith said. You sure thats enuf , no need to pressure test with water ?

If air wont leak out, there is no way in hell water will....bulb

X2 on the lottery ticket...:|err

 

[BigSteve]

Not good had that happen to me years ago while out of town during a freak cold spell. cracked the block and heads.hope you have better luck! I would recheck that oil often,maybe a tear down and magnflux the block and heads its winter if your lucky it will only cost a set of gaskets.bulb

 

[IMPATIENT 1]

LOL ....That's what Keith said. You sure thats enuf , no need to pressure test with water ?

nah, you're good. i wouldn't worry, bet its just really sweating on the inside, lots of moisture in the air in our area right now. when i pressure test at work i pump em up to 20psi and walk away for an hr, if it doesn't drop, i don't look for a leak.air, water hose, coolant pressure tester, its all the same just different ways of getting at the same result, pressure'n the block up. i use them all, it just depends if i'm home with my crap tools or at work with my good tools,lol.

 

[1320h2o]

LOL ....That's what Keith said. You sure thats enuf , no need to pressure test with water ?

WOW rick glad everythings checking out that would have sucked BIG TIME buddy!!!