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Hi, Just wanted to know if a Crack in no#2 Main saddle is at all repairable it is straight across the oil passage and goes down the saddle almost 1/4inch, It is a bowtie 184 block, 4 bolt splayed caps, I spun a rod bearing and there was obviously excessive heat, Crank is no good. Just wanted to know if I can salvage this block in anyway. I have tried to attached photos i hope they work and thanks for any infomation.
 

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Only 550hp:(, Think it may have been like that when I got it, Would it simply not last 5min? Or something that will happen after hours of RPM?
 

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Only 550hp:(, Think it may have been like that when I got it, Would it simply not last 5min? Or something that will happen after hours of RPM?
Its not going to hold bearing crush for shit. Its going to spray oil that should be going to the main and more importantly a rod bearing. Its going to worse. Would it last 5 minutes. Maybe. More RPM, the faster it is going to grow.

If you don't know the history, it was probably already started, no matter how small, when you bought it. 500HP didn't start that crack.



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Only 550hp:(, Think it may have been like that when I got it, Would it simply not last 5min? Or something that will happen after hours of RPM?
Do you're self a favor and and take it to a good machine shop who can check the depth of the crack and let them tell you if it is junk or not. JMO
 

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Do you're self a favor and and take it to a good machine shop who can check the depth of the crack and let them tell you if it is junk or not. JMO
Crack depth tends to be a ratio to its width. That thing is cracked the entire width of the main. ITS DEEP! And it isn't going to get any shallower anytime soon. Anybody can roll dice. Smart people don't roll fixed dice.



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Crack depth tends to be a ratio to its width. That thing is cracked the entire width of the main. ITS DEEP! And it isn't going to get any shallower anytime soon. Anybody can roll dice. Smart people don't roll fixed dice.
OK. Where is Uncle Bob. Uncle Bob can't talk that nice. Where is he?????:|err
 

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Since the block is more or less a paper weight, We have come up with a plan to use it in a Crash and bash car for shits and giggles. From the information im getting (Not here to start arguments) At one point the saddle has had a heavy side impact and the crack while all the way across is not so deep but has fractured at the weakest point being either side of the oil hole. We are going to dill a relief hole at the end of the crack and then V groove the 1/4 inch down and Thermal spray weld it up to height, Re drill the oil galley and get it line bored. We are only doing this because we have all the parts to fill the short block we be funny to see how long it lasts.
 

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Since the block is more or less a paper weight, We have come up with a plan to use it in a Crash and bash car for shits and giggles. From the information im getting (Not here to start arguments) At one point the saddle has had a heavy side impact and the crack while all the way across is not so deep but has fractured at the weakest point being either side of the oil hole. We are going to dill a relief hole at the end of the crack and then V groove the 1/4 inch down and Thermal spray weld it up to height, Re drill the oil galley and get it line bored. We are only doing this because we have all the parts to fill the short block we be funny to see how long it lasts.
Hell, i would try that. Some loctite on the bearing, make sure clearance is a little loose, splayed cap 4 bolt ought to help hold it together. I wouldn't put any high dollar parts in it. All you really need to do is keep the bearing in place so the rods get oil. If the crack opens up a little what will it do, leak a little oil? If you keep an eye on the oil and pressure you should be able to catch it before it goes catastrophic fail. Don't try and make big hp...it might last. Seems like you can get away with a lot of stuff in a car motor that would not last 10 min. in a boat.
Be a good beginning for a build thread.You could start a "how long will it last' pool and if it lasts 100 hrs without taking a dump you get to keep the money:)devil
 

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for a crack to show that clearly on a monitor screen , agree with those saying the block is done . I have stitched and stick welded frost cracks in blocks but wouldn't waste the time with trying to repair a crack in a main bulkhead . unless you've got some new improved spray weld system it doesn't penetrate the parent metal and just lays on top , little or no strength returned to the block . :no:
 

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I realise the block is done guys, We are just doing it out of interest, So many thousands of blocks must have been scrapped and it's a pity.
It's laser cladding (A form of spray weld) that will fill the cut out groove, Rolls royce have been using the technology recently to repair plane engine parts that they previously used to throw away.
There is a company not far from me that have the laser with 5 axis head and can concentrate the area more than spray weld. Its just for Fun
 

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block crack

Just for the funof it?

I do recall, taking a motor on it's last leg, drain oil and water, open the throttle to about 5,000 and sat back with beers. We were totally suprised in how long it lasted.

And laughed our asses off the entire time.

Jerry
 

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yup laser cladding sounds pretty new and improved from my stitching and stick welded iron repairs . be interested to see pictures after it's lasered .
 

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Hi, Just wanted to know if a Crack in no#2 Main saddle is at all repairable it is straight across the oil passage and goes down the saddle almost 1/4inch, It is a bowtie 184 block, 4 bolt splayed caps, I spun a rod bearing and there was obviously excessive heat, Crank is no good. Just wanted to know if I can salvage this block in anyway. I have tried to attached photos i hope they work and thanks for any infomation.
Generally, many cylinder blocks with a cracked main such as your example (due to spun bearing/overheating) can indeed be repaired and put back into service. The big question is whether to execute such a repair on that Bowtie block and then re-utilize it in a high performance application. And while that has been done successfully, the percentage of risk goes up notably depending on the details of the usage. For example:

I've known of similar damage to stock blocks which were simply left untouched/not repaired, align honed, stock engine rebuilt, then rebuilt put back into service again without issue for tens of thousands of miles without issue--just don't overheat the engine again or it's over.

Moving up the ladder a bit, if one had a numbers matching LS6 454 Chevelle or 440 Super Bee with a similar failure, Id definitely stitch the main and sleeve the oil passage and put it back in the restored car.

There is nothing wrong with a properly repaired component.

But when the block is going to be subjected to stresses that cause it to wiggle around more, all bets are off. I do know a guy who ran a factory 4-bolt Cobra Jet block in a pulling truck that saw more than 9500 RPM on every pull and be did this for a full season. Identical cracked main that was repaired. By the way, factory SCJ blocks have doweled main caps which probably helped hold/pull the two sides of the cracked (repaired) main toward each other...but during season 2, that baby let go hard.

So it really depends on a lot of variables, such as extent of failure, quality of repair, final usage. For a marine application such as yours, I'd replace that Bowtie block but I'd definitely keep the broken one and fix it and "retire" it for use in something mild duty.

LO
 
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