[1Homeblown]

Started block sanding the floor in the Schiada to get the whoop-de-doo's out of it before the flow-coat goes in. To say the least, it's kicking my ass...so here's my question.

What grit sandpaper should I use to start with? I've been using 100 but its going sloooooow. Am I pussyfootin around? Should I be using something more harsh? Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Steve

 

[GAWnCA]

Try some 36 or 60 grit. 36 will cut much faster. If you're using epoxy or resin for your flow coat, it should fill in the scratches. I am assuming that you are sanding a gel coated floor.

 

[redneckcharlie]

Try some 36 or 60 grit. 36 will cut much faster. If you're using epoxy or resin for your flow coat, it should fill in the scratches. I am assuming that you are sanding a gel coated floor.

36 grit is some very aggressive paper. If you go this route make sure you finish up with some 100-120 grit. I wouldn't use that harsh of a paper, but would instead use a 100-120 grit on an air file to make things easier.

 

[GAWnCA]

If using an air file the 100 grit would be better but if hand boarding, the 60 grit wold be faster. I don't know what needs to be sanded out so I was just giving options.

 

[redneckcharlie]

If using an air file the 100 grit would be better but if hand boarding, the 60 grit wold be faster. I don't know what needs to be sanded out so I was just giving options.

I hope you didn't take that as I was stating you were giving bad information. If so, that wasn't my intention. The one really bad thing about very course paper is in many cases its very difficult to completely remove the deep scratches. Especially if your not very experienced. It would be very disappointing for a diy person to apply there topcoat and then see some of the deep scratches after there application. I've always skimmed my surfaces after using aggressive papers, and thats even after cutting it with 80-100 grit. The most important part of this equation thats missing is what mil thickness the topcoat is going to be.

 

[GAWnCA]

Naw. It's all good. We really don't know how much he needs to take down either. A "whoop-de-doo" can be just about anything. Some "whoop-de-doos" are worse than other "whoop-de-doos".

 

[redneckcharlie]

Naw. It's all good. We really don't know how much he needs to take down either. A "whoop-de-doo" can be just about anything. Some "whoop-de-doos" are worse than other "whoop-de-doos".

Ya, and
whoop-de-doos, can easily turn into, oh xxcking xxit! LOL.

 

[TRG]

I found that 80 grit long board worked out well for me, but im sure that a more coarse grit would do the trick as well, definitely run back over it with a much finer grit before you coat it! there is a bit of shrink in the couple of flo-coats that I have used dont want to "HAVE TO" wet sand and polish if you decide not to, I recommend the Prestec product, it sands and polishes much easier IMO, and its more of a clear product, the duratec seems to brown much more after catalyzing! the Prestec starts off of more of a rose color and hardens a lighter amber.
Again...just my opinion!

 

[1Homeblown]

Floors

Thanks for all of the input guys. There will be veneers put down byt I want the floors to be as flat as possible so the whoop-de-doos dont translate.

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