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I'm No Expert
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Discussion Starter #1
So my boats sitting on a different trailer i picked up and revamped. Couple days ago i towed the boat with engine about 50 miles, when i got back home the boat had slid 5" back from where it was. I've never had this problem before with my other trailer. What would cause somthing like this? This trailer is the right size for this boat unlike my previous one.

Also, the front metal bar that comes up and hooks to the bow eye isnt on the boat yet. I had the bow sys strapped to the trailer (not tight, just taunt), i cant imagine this could cause this? That would be alot of pressure on the bow eye i would think.
 

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Still Boatless :-(
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So my boats sitting on a different trailer i picked up and revamped. Couple days ago i towed the boat with engine about 50 miles, when i got back home the boat had slid 5" back from where it was. I've never had this problem before with my other trailer. What would cause somthing like this? This trailer is the right size for this boat unlike my previous one.

Also, the front metal bar that comes up and hooks to the bow eye isnt on the boat yet. I had the bow sys strapped to the trailer (not tight, just taunt), i cant imagine this could cause this? That would be alot of pressure on the bow eye i would think.

You don't strap it down at the back of the boat??

:)bulb
 

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I'm No Expert
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Discussion Starter #3
You don't strap it down at the back of the boat??

:)bulb
With my other trailer nope, never did and it never moved 1" and it was like that for 20+ years. There was a thread on here about that and this time towing with the new trailer i decided to tie it down, but i left the rear straps loose. Either way, for as slow and easy as i towed this time compared (since it was this trailers maiden tow) to normal, it moved alot!
 

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Thrust Whisperer
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Maybe the springs/tires on your old trailer were "softer" than the new one and kept the boat "dead" while riding on the trailer. Now your new trailer is keeping your boat slightly airborne during the tow - allowing it to slide around like cheap whore on a vibrating bed.

FWIW I am a tie off the stern guy.
 

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you should never tow without using the bar in the front to hold the boat or it will move. also it should be tied to the trailer in the rear.

you are responsible for your load regardless what it is. If it comes off the trailer and kills someone it's your responsibility
 

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I'm No Expert
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Discussion Starter #6
you should never tow without using the bar in the front to hold the boat or it will move. also it should be tied to the trailer in the rear.

you are responsible for your load regardless what it is. If it comes off the trailer and kills someone it's your responsibility
Seams like alot of pressure on the bow eye.
 

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E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
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you should never tow without using the bar in the front to hold the boat or it will move. also it should be tied to the trailer in the rear.

you are responsible for your load regardless what it is. If it comes off the trailer and kills someone it's your responsibility
It is the boat not fitting the trailer, and the loose strap, not lack of a metal bar to the tow eye.

My trailer has no bar style retention, has not had it for 30 years.

My trailer has a square mount for the winch made of 3" channel steel, with a rubber V-block mounted to the aft edge of the winch mount.
The winch strap goes under the block, and holds the eye pulled up against the boat-side of the v-block while the V cradles the bow.
For over 25 years, this setup has never allowed the boat to move on the trailer, and untill I owned the boat (dad bought new 1978, given to me 2003), the transom was NEVER tied down. It was towed over 1000 miles yearly, at highway speeds (sometimes 75mph after 55 went away) and the boat never walked.
The boat DID occasionally bounce, and was sometimes found not sitting squarely on the bunks (a slight sideways bounce would put a strake ON the bunk it was next to).
Bunk fit to the hull is your principal anti-slide mechanism, friction over many square feet of surface.

Also, I would personally NEVER run that nifty-looking bar-setup, not after the eyes I have seen ripped out of the hull by a boat sliding aft, usually when trying to pull it from the water.
If I EVER own a trailer with that setup, the torches and arc welder is coming out, as is some apropriate size channel and plate steel. A winch & bow block are going on.

I do personally tie the transom down to the trailer, to stop the bouncing, not to prevent the hull from sliding, which it will do little for.
Aft it may help some, it will NOT prevent a slide fwd from any but braking stops, and my existing bow eye will hold against the block from any braking forces.
An impact, will simply snap the straps as the boat heads fwd.
 

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E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
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That's why you should strap down the back.....even a minor, slow speech crash, and the boat could end up going though the back window of your pickup truck.

:)bulb
Transom straps will not stop this, it will just add either 2 snapped straps, and/or pulled out rear eyes (I have) to the list of damages.

The guys with only 1 strap, from trailer over the pump & to the trailer, get to avoid the broken strap, since the boat will slide out from under it.
 

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It is the boat not fitting the trailer, and the loose strap, not lack of a metal bar to the tow eye.

My trailer has no bar style retention, has not had it for 30 years.

My trailer has a square mount for the winch made of 3" channel steel, with a rubber V-block mounted to the aft edge of the winch mount.
The winch strap goes under the block, and holds the eye pulled up against the boat-side of the v-block while the V cradles the bow.
For over 25 years, this setup has never allowed the boat to move on the trailer, and untill I owned the boat (dad bought new 1978, given to me 2003), the transom was NEVER tied down. It was towed over 1000 miles yearly, at highway speeds (sometimes 75mph after 55 went away) and the boat never walked.
The boat DID occasionally bounce, and was sometimes found not sitting squarely on the bunks (a slight sideways bounce would put a strake ON the bunk it was next to).
Bunk fit to the hull is your principal anti-slide mechanism, friction over many square feet of surface.

Also, I would personally NEVER run that nifty-looking bar-setup, not after the eyes I have seen ripped out of the hull by a boat sliding aft, usually when trying to pull it from the water.
If I EVER own a trailer with that setup, the torches and arc welder is coming out, as is some apropriate size channel and plate steel. A winch & bow block are going on.

I do personally tie the transom down to the trailer, to stop the bouncing, not to prevent the hull from sliding, which it will do little for.
Aft it may help some, it will NOT prevent a slide fwd from any but braking stops, and my existing bow eye will hold against the block from any braking forces.
An impact, will simply snap the straps as the boat heads fwd.
your wince/strap setup is replacing the bar.. either way works, i simply mentioned the bar as thats what the majority of trailers for smaller boats like ours use... your setup simply pulls preasure on the boat agianst a stop and the bar properly designed triangulates the trailer and boat so it wont move. Point is it must be held in front and rear.
 

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Years and years ago my buddy was towing my 18' Rampage with his Pathfinder and we had a low speed collision with the car ahead of us. Even impacting at less than 10 mph it was enough force to:

-snap the bow eye stud(was a single bolt w/chrome eye type)
-bend the 2" hitch receiver 90 degree's
-allow the ball to pop out of the hitch completely
-allow the boat to travel forward on the trailer, up the bow roller
-break the battery and both front seats loose from their mounts in the boat
-bend the rear tire carrier on the Pathfinder
-cave in the rear hatch of the Pathfinder
-completely write off the hatchback car we hit
-cause the driver in said hatchback to compress his thighs together rapidly enough to squirt a vanilla milkshake he was holding there all over his suit(did I mention they were on their way to a wedding reception? :) )

In all seriousness this was a low speed collision that did a TON of damage to all vehicles involved. I dont care what anyone says three straps are far better than one and will greatly reduce the chances of the bow hookup failing if its the only thing present. I'd also concur tieing down the transom will likely help minimize trailering damage to your hull.
If you're hitting something hard enough to yank out the eye(s) in the hull its going to suffer damage in that wreck anyway!

Cheers
 

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E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
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your wince/strap setup is replacing the bar.. either way works, i simply mentioned the bar as thats what the majority of trailers for smaller boats like ours use... your setup simply pulls preasure on the boat agianst a stop and the bar properly designed triangulates the trailer and boat so it wont move. Point is it must be held in front and rear.
The problem with the "triangulated location", is 2 hinges and one non-fixed point. You have a flexible triangle, not a solid one.
They may well "do the same thing" in a steady state condition, but, aply force to them, they do NOT behave anywhere nearly the same.

The stern can slide aft (seen it done), the bar is hinged at the trailer, and in the eye.
The bow of the boat is not held downward in plane, so is able to rise up, permitting the bar to hinge more to follow.

At some point, the front tip of the bar strikes hull, and now pries on the eye, if it pries hard enough, something breaks, and I have never seen it be the bar or the "locking pin", always the fibreglass and/or the eyebolt.

My setup has a fixed, rigid, imovable locating point, with the foreward pull of the winch strap running under the stop block holding the bow eye against the aft face of the block.
Any aft pressure simply pulls on the winch strap, nothing to flex, hinge, pivot, or move, untill the strap yields.
Any foreward pressure pushes the bow eye into the face of the rubber block, nothing pivots, flexes, or permits ANY movement, untill so much force is applied that the eye-bolt or bow fibreglass yields. I doubt the 4" thick rubber block will "tear thru".
In order for the eye to go over the block, it will have to snap the winch strap, which runs under the block in such a manner that the hook is actually under the block, while the eye is butted to the aft side of the block. vertical movement is required to snap the winch strap, the eye bolt is likely to yield first, or the hull glass.

Since there is no way to "lock" the hinge pount on the bow eye on the bar-setup, there needs to be a way to lock, freeze, make imobile, the hinge point at the trailer, once a boat is in place.
 

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fwiw- i was told by a san bernadino county sheriff one evening last summer that i could be sited for not tieing the back of my boat to the trailer.
 

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Resident Ford Nut
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So my boats sitting on a different trailer i picked up and revamped. Couple days ago i towed the boat with engine about 50 miles, when i got back home the boat had slid 5" back from where it was. I've never had this problem before with my other trailer. What would cause somthing like this? This trailer is the right size for this boat unlike my previous one.

Also, the front metal bar that comes up and hooks to the bow eye isnt on the boat yet. I had the bow sys strapped to the trailer (not tight, just taunt), i cant imagine this could cause this? That would be alot of pressure on the bow eye i would think.
Are these two not related ? :)bulb

Shaun never tow without the bow hold down. When it comes to tyeing down the back don't over-tighten just get it snug. I once put the strap tight enough that it didn't let the boat move around and it snapped the bow-eye pin on the way home from the river.

S CP :D
 

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Best deal yet!!!

Tom, that the surest way to keep it from sliding on the trailer. How about just thru bolting the bunks to the boat and install removable pins that mount the bunks to the trailer? Plus when you beach it , it will help protect the bottom of your boat!:)bulb
 

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Just Me
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Without the front and rear tied down the boat will walk all over the trailer if it doesn't have the weight to seat it firmly in the bunks. Even with weight, the boat it can walk if it's not tied down. It just takes more force to do it. I towed the Eliminator from Sacramento to Iowa without a motor and it was a PITA to try and keep that boat on the trailer. The trailer was missing the front bar so the bow was held with rope.... that didn't stop the boat from sliding back 5 feet off the trailer before I saw it and stopped. Used a ratchet strap as a come-along and pulled the boat back up and then added rear straps. Next thing I knew the boat had slid forward 3 feet. The empty boat broke one smaller strap, and it took a stop every 4 hours to keep that boat strapped to the trailer, without damaging the boat, so it wouldn't slide around. I just told myself it was going to be a good raceboat as it didn't like sitting still, it wanted to just go.
 
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