[River Rat 005]

I've about got this engine together. It's BBC NA all roller drag race only. The oil I'm going to use is Chevron Delo 400 LE 15W-40. API CJ-4. Whata think? With a NAPA Gold filter. On the break in, I ususlly run it 20 to 30 minutes. then inspect the filter, then change the oil fron dino to Mobil1. Does this sound about right?

Looking at the jug label, I'm not sure this is dino oil. Anybody know? I was going to use it because I have it laying around.

Tim

 

[Bubbletop409]

I think that Delo is for a diesel application, which should be fine for a new deal break in, since it has more of the anti-wear additives that were recently reduced in pass. car oils in general.

 

[Jetaholic]

The fact that you're all roller instead of flat tappet will eliminate the chance of a cam going flat, virtually eliminating the need for ZDDP on break in.

However, I run flat tappet so it's a must for my application.

I ran the Joe Gibb's performance break in oil for the cam break in and the first two hours of engine operation. After that, I changed to Valvoline VR-1 20w-50.

 

[Shaun]

What i was told on my deal was that since my engine was full roller your pretty much just making sure the rings seal. The break-in (on the dyno) for my engine only lasted a few minutes and basically it looked like the rpms ran from 3-4K under a slight load. For break-in oil on mine i used VR1 20w-50 Racing oil. It's mad cheap at your local kragen, think it's like $3.99 a quart. After the break-in we ran a few pulls on that same oil to get a base. After than we changed oil/filter and ran the crap out of it. The racing oil also has zinc added, which i always hear guys mentioning when they are talking about a good conv oil.

 

[Jetaholic]

What i was told on my deal was that since my engine was full roller your pretty much just making sure the rings seal. The break-in (on the dyno) for my engine only lasted a few minutes and basically it looked like the rpms ran from 3-4K under a slight load. For break-in oil on mine i used VR1 20w-50 Racing oil. It's mad cheap at your local kragen, think it's like $3.99 a quart. After the break-in we ran a few pulls on that same oil to get a base. After than we changed oil/filter and ran the crap out of it. The racing oil also has zinc added, which i always hear guys mentioning when they are talking about a good conv oil.

I'm pretty sure the zinc is only ABSOLUTELY needed for motors running flat tappet cams. However, the VR-1 oil is good shit...that's all I run in my motor. Definitely can't hurt.

 

[Beer:30]

Yep. Special oil and/or additive is for flat-tappet only.

And, if you WANT to run synthetic from birth, you can. Several tests have been done on break-in and found that myth to be untrue. The rings will seat just fine with whatever oil you want.

Most all of the performance motors from the factory run synthetic from birth.

I took the leap and put Mobil-1 in a 327 (now a 340 at .080 over) with forged SRP pistons, molly rings, flat-tappet cam, TrickFlow heads, etc, etc. Fired it first-time with the M-1 in it and some GM EOS (for the cam). Tested it after 200 miles (and two oil changes) and it had less than 5% leak-down in all cylinders.

 

[River Rat 005]

I've heard the same thing of synthetic from birth. Never knew anyone that did it. I figured if I was going to change the oil after a few minutes running, may as well use the cheap stuff. The oil I mentioned earlier was free. Makes for a good throw away.

Tim

 

[Beer:30]

I've heard the same thing of synthetic from birth. Never knew anyone that did it. I figured if I was going to change the oil after a few minutes running, may as well use the cheap stuff. The oil I mentioned earlier was free. Makes for a good throw away.

Tim

There's also no problem with switching back and forth. The metal doesn't care, as long as it has good oil.

Use the LE as your "throw away" oil and put the good stuff in as soon as you feel up to it. Won't hurt a thing.

 

[scott foxwell]

Pep Boy's straight 30wt for break in. Make three or four good, full pulls, get the oil temp up good and warm, then change oil and filter. If you're really liberal with moly and assy lube, change the filter after the first break in series on the dyno. Ther's no reason to put expensive oil in the first time out.
JMO.

 

[GoFastRacer]

http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/BIO30.html

 

[River Rat 005]

This won't be on a dyno. Wish it could. I'll fire it up on the trailer and let it run awhile, change the oil and filter, then I'm going to High Point next weekend. Any thoughts?

Tim

 

[Brendellajet]

Dont let it idle.

 

[stix818]

I've heard the same thing of synthetic from birth. Never knew anyone that did it. I figured if I was going to change the oil after a few minutes running, may as well use the cheap stuff. The oil I mentioned earlier was free. Makes for a good throw away.

Tim

I have with every motor I've ran and I believe the same holds true for my oldman. I usually don't chime in on these because everyone has their own theories. My 555 that I ran in TE never had a cylinder that leaked more than 3%. My Pontiac leaks at around 5-7% and these are numbers cold. Pontiac has a different ring package. Anyways, if I was going to run off the shelf oil it would be 10-40 Mobile 1 but I've heard the VR-1 is a good oil.. How long before your ready to put her in the water?

 

[Jetaholic]

Dont let it idle.

It's a roller cam...why not?

 

[Shaun]

It's a roller cam...why not?

My understanding is at idle you dont get alot of oil to the upper engine. Rollers still need oil.

River Rat 005, why not run it on the trailer for a few minutes to just make sure it starts and things are ok, then run it on the water for a day, change the oil and go? I think you probably want to get that oil good and hot, and everything mixed up so that when you drain the oil you get out all the junk and assembly lube rather than having it sit on the bottom of your pan.

I'm no expert though, just thinking out loud

 

[Beer:30]

My understanding is at idle you dont get alot of oil to the upper engine. Rollers still need oil.

To a degree (no pun intended) you are correct. However, a full-roller valvetrain needs very little oil. In fact, sometimes oil-restriction is used in roller setups.

However, not letting it idle CAN'T HURT IT (within reason). But is not necessary. Some builders have a theory that the added compression pressure of RPM helps "push" the rings out toward the cylinder walls and helps seating. Again, it doesn't "hurt" to do it, but no-load revving is just that "no load". Driving the vehicle or loading it on a dyno is the only real way to increase pressure in the cylinders and move the rings around.

 

[River Rat 005]

This boat only runs a quarter mile at a time. I built this engine in 03. I ran it on the trailer, about 20 min. to get it hot, then took it to St. Louis and qualified #1 on the first pass. Last year the blow by got pretty bad so I freshened it up. I guess I'm wondering if I should do something different this time around.

Tim

 

[scott foxwell]

Tim, what you did was fine. It's a little agressive, but the best way to break in an engine is take out and run it good and hard. IMO valve springs are more critical than rings...I think valve springs really need to be brought up to operating temp, and then allowed to cool before really romping on them. Your ring seal may have gone away for a few reasons, but my first guess would be cylinder wall finish. There aren't many machine shops that really pay attention to the details when finishing a cyl wall, and it can make a night and day difference. Moly rings really don't need much breaking in...heck, they're about broken in by the time you push them in the cyl's, but the finish can have a big effect on how long they last.
JMO.

 

[Moneypit]

Roller?

Dont let it idle.

I think he said it was full roller. Idling shouldn't hurt a roller cam type. Moly rings seat instantly with the proper cylinder wall prep......I have heard not to run "Slick 50, Duralube, or the likes on the initial start up. Don't know if it makes a difference, but I wait until after timing is set before adding the slick stuff, which IMO, works.....Ray

 

[SS 201]

I thought that another reason for break in oil is so the lifters can turn and rotate on the cam lobe. And that synthetic is too slippery for this to happen from the get go and causes the cam to go flat and the bottom of the lifter to wear prematurely.