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Discussion Starter #1
I used my old pushrods out of the 455 and everything looksto be ok, but considering i went to a larger cam, and roller rockers, new studs and guideplates i just wanna make sure i have the correct length rods. I dont wanna re assemble this thing and have a ticking time bomb ive got alota money wrapped up in my engine.

Anyone willing to come by after i get my adjustable rod and kinda walk me through the process?? I think i can figure it out but like i said about the bomb thing ;)


ive got plenty of beer lol.

Oh and from what im understanding since ive got hydrolic lifters, i should use a solid lifter to check the length?? this is where im kinda lost with this whole thing.
 

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i can give you a hand. Im not a 455 guru but im sure we could swing that. My number is 916-753-0462,
 

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I used my old pushrods out of the 455 and everything looksto be ok, but considering i went to a larger cam, and roller rockers, new studs and guideplates i just wanna make sure i have the correct length rods. I dont wanna re assemble this thing and have a ticking time bomb ive got alota money wrapped up in my engine.

Anyone willing to come by after i get my adjustable rod and kinda walk me through the process?? I think i can figure it out but like i said about the bomb thing ;)


ive got plenty of beer lol.

Oh and from what im understanding since ive got hydrolic lifters, i should use a solid lifter to check the length?? this is where im kinda lost with this whole thing.
I have used an oil primer pump with some success, seems more "real", just another opinion...

GT
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i can give you a hand. Im not a 455 guru but im sure we could swing that. My number is 916-753-0462,
no need to be a 455 guru, im pretty sure finding the correct length rod is pretty much same on eny engine. thanks for the help ill be sure to contact you when i get the correct tools in the mail.
 

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if your waiting on mesuring tools i have a 24" caliper i can bring if needed.
 

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Angry American
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Matt,
Here's a link to the Comp Cams webpage on how to set-up the valve train geometry-
http://www.compcams.com/information/Products/Pushrods/

To figure out the length you need, you will need a solid roller lifter and an adjustable pushrod. Put the solid lifter in the bore and put the rest of the valve together using the adjustable pushrod. Use the diagram on the above link for reference to determine the length you need.
The solid lifter is used only because the hydraulic lifter may compress giving you a false reading.
Also, it's best to measure all 16 as it's possible for a variance in lengths.
 

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Not a guru either but, why do you need a differnt length push rod. Unless you are changing the lifters to different length ones or the new cam has a different size base circle or the push rod were incorrect before the rebuild, the old ones should be just fine. Are you just measuring to make sure(not a bad idea)? A new cam with different lift specs does not mean you have to change the push rods (assuming the rods were correct before the cam change)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not a guru either but, why do you need a differnt length push rod. Unless you are changing the lifters to different length ones or the new cam has a different size base circle or the push rod were incorrect before the rebuild, the old ones should be just fine. Are you just measuring to make sure(not a bad idea)? A new cam with different lift specs does not mean you have to change the push rods (assuming the rods were correct before the cam change)
well its a new fresh motor ive got alot of money in so why skimp on doing something correct?? and secondly before the motor had an aftermarket cam which i dont know what it was. So i dunno what the base circle was to begin with.. Not to mention its always best to learn something new so i can just do it myself when i start my bbc build. I know my way around an engine farily well and have built several, just always threw stock pushrods back in it and everything has always been fine, id just like to really do this one correctly considering ive done everything else possible to this motor.
 

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Not bashing just asking why you want to check. Checking just for the sake of being sure is a good enough reason for me. I will probably check this myself when I do my next rebuild even if I "know" that it isn't needed.
 

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Angry American
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well its a new fresh motor ive got alot of money in so why skimp on doing something correct?? and secondly before the motor had an aftermarket cam which i dont know what it was. So i dunno what the base circle was to begin with.. Not to mention its always best to learn something new so i can just do it myself when i start my bbc build. I know my way around an engine farily well and have built several, just always threw stock pushrods back in it and everything has always been fine, id just like to really do this one correctly considering ive done everything else possible to this motor.
Since you're going with a larger cam and roller lifters, you're doing the right thing by checking....better safe than sorry especially with the valve train
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Since you're going with a larger cam and roller lifters, you're doing the right thing by checking....better safe than sorry especially with the valve train

no roller lifters, just larger ratio roller rockers. Like i said it may not be needed, but with new studs, rockers and larger cam id like to check.. The major thing im thinking is with the new studs what if the rockers sits closer or farther away from the surface of the head??? That would make some difference or so i think...
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
FWIW On my olds I switched it over to an adjustable rocker set up.
most deffinetly, ive got the entire harland sharp setup forged internals, race prepped block, studded bottom end, oil drainbacks to the pan from rear of heads, Pretty agressive cam, it should be a well built motor.

"if your waiting on mesuring tools i have a 24" caliper i can bring if needed."

Josh you the man!

excuse the cellphone pictures lol



 

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thats a pretty sick looking olds ya got there. what kinda hp are you shooting for. are you going to dyno the motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thats a pretty sick looking olds ya got there. what kinda hp are you shooting for. are you going to dyno the motor?
at first i was shooting for high 400 maybe 500... But then i got realistic and told myself the 455 isnt a motor to really build unreliably... So i went ahead with the 9.5:1 compression keith blacks, a pretty radical cam, some light headwork, and really paid ALOT of attention to all of the oiling issues. The entire block has been reworked "race prepped" for any and all oil problems, including notching the rods for better oiling of the main berrings, enlarging and polishing all returns. Tapped into the oil returns on the head and running an external line to the oil pan to keep from all the oil staying up in the valve covers using -10an lines. Motor has been completly balanced and check and and then rechecked. Rings a little on the loose side all new valve train.. Ive got some $ wrapped up in it. Should be a very reliable motor until i finish up the chevy. IM tryin to gather parts for a mild blown big block. Ever since i was a kid ive wanted a blower motor, now ive got the means to build one so might as well have one.

check it out...

http://www.performanceboats.com//showthread.php?t=12276
 

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Discussion Starter #16
all this talk about my motor and i went into the garage to finish up the plumbing to the oil pan for the drainbacks only to find out the idiot at the head shop tapped the rear of the head with a 3/8" bolt thread, not a 3/8" NPT thread.. So now my -10an to 3/8 adapters wont work.. SUPER PISSED OFF!!!! Motor completly assembled, now only to have to pull apart to have the holes retapped.

anyone think the corteco head gaskets would be any good to reuse?. Motor has never been ran, only assembled for a little over a month.

SHIT!
 

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all this talk about my motor and i went into the garage to finish up the plumbing to the oil pan for the drainbacks only to find out the idiot at the head shop tapped the rear of the head with a 3/8" bolt thread, not a 3/8" NPT thread.. So now my -10an to 3/8 adapters wont work.. SUPER PISSED OFF!!!! Motor completly assembled, now only to have to pull apart to have the holes retapped.

anyone think the corteco head gaskets would be any good to reuse?. Motor has never been ran, only assembled for a little over a month.

SHIT!
Matt,
Contact superdave013 before pulling the heads. He might be able to come up with a fix for this situation.
 

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that's pretty small. a -3AN is 3/8-24UNJ to give you an idea. You need to tap them out to 3/8NPT I would think.

and for the steel bungs you asked about I don't have them. But you can go to your local industrial hose place and pick up a flare to pipe adapter. Just wack off the NPT end and weld it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
that's pretty small. a -3AN is 3/8-24UNJ to give you an idea. You need to tap them out to 3/8NPT I would think.

and for the steel bungs you asked about I don't have them. But you can go to your local industrial hose place and pick up a flare to pipe adapter. Just wack off the NPT end and weld it on.
it ended up not being 3/8 sae thread, it was a 1/4 NPT thread so its not as small as i originally thaught.. I got the -8 to 1/4 npt straight fittings today and they went right into the holes. Looks like the setup is gonna work really well, I wanted to use -10 lines for the drains but i guess -8 is gonna have to work.

Ill check on the flare fittings tomorrow if i can find a hydrolic shop open. Thanks for the tip!
 

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Make sure you install the returns in the pan adjacent to a main cap. Don't line them up with the rods or grank counterwieghts. This will minimize any "windage" working to blow oil backwards into the returns.

For fittings in your area, check with "American Street Rods". They're on Sunrise in Rancho Cordova, although this weekend they will probably be at the fairgrounds for the NSRA Street Rod event. They may have what Dave suggested or something else that will work.
 
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