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Well I ran a quick pressure test on my (freeze cracked) 455 Olds block. It seems to hold pressure (about 10 psi of air) in the water system without much pressure loss that I could tell. So that should mean that the crack is not too bad, and it doesnt seem to be leaking into the oil galley anywhere. So I guess I will JB the external cracks and get this boat on the water. Hopefully my pressure bypass valve will cure the high pressure aspect.

There is some residual milkshake oil. What is best to clean this up, ideally without pulling the intake? I think someone said kerosene but how much is too much? Do you run the engine with kerosene in it or just pull the valvecovers and dump it all over? I did a search but could only find milkshake prevention threads, not how to actually clean the milkshake out... but I could be search-handicapped.
 

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Well I ran a quick pressure test on my (freeze cracked) 455 Olds block. It seems to hold pressure (about 10 psi of air) in the water system without much pressure loss that I could tell. So that should mean that the crack is not too bad, and it doesnt seem to be leaking into the oil galley anywhere. So I guess I will JB the external cracks and get this boat on the water. Hopefully my pressure bypass valve will cure the high pressure aspect.

There is some residual milkshake oil. What is best to clean this up, ideally without pulling the intake? I think someone said kerosene but how much is too much? Do you run the engine with kerosene in it or just pull the valvecovers and dump it all over? I did a search but could only find milkshake prevention threads, not how to actually clean the milkshake out... but I could be search-handicapped.
10 psi....good luck
 

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Don't run it with the stuff in the block, it can loosen any slug and plug the pick up. If it got water in the oil its coming in internally, and you need to find it or it will milkshake again. Jets can easily exceed 30 psi water pressure, generally 20 plus is bad for an engine.

If you still have the turkey tray intake gasket, thats likely the culprit of the water in the oil. Replace it with the Mr Gasket style gasket.
 

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10 psi seems pretty reasonable to me, seeing how everyone says set the water pressure regulator/bypass to 10-12 psi. I will re-test with 15 but I dont see the point beyond that, other than wanting to blow a gasket with the air.

It does have the turkey tray still, so I will replace that next.

Yeah, fixing with JB weld is questionable. But at this point I just want to get it on the water this season. It didnt leak air at 10 psi with the cracks as is, so slathering JB should act more as a backup than primary leak stop.

But back to the primary question, I still have left over milkshake to clean out. So just pull the valve covers and wash it all down with diesel eh?
 

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10 psi seems pretty reasonable to me, seeing how everyone says set the water pressure regulator/bypass to 10-12 psi. I will re-test with 15 but I dont see the point beyond that, other than wanting to blow a gasket with the air.

It does have the turkey tray still, so I will replace that next.

Yeah, fixing with JB weld is questionable. But at this point I just want to get it on the water this season. It didnt leak air at 10 psi with the cracks as is, so slathering JB should act more as a backup than primary leak stop.

But back to the primary question, I still have left over milkshake to clean out. So just pull the valve covers and wash it all down with diesel eh?
Like giving the engine a bath, but if you do this, leave the drain plug out, rinse it out. Now when you replace the drain plug, add you oil by pouring it over the valve train, try to pour it so the oil follows the lifter down to the valley. You have washed out all of the oil during the rinse out, so you want to have everything oiled up before starting it up again.
 

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Not a big fan of pouring diesel into a motor...but,
flush with the cheapest oil available.
Then after a run do a oil/filter change to get rid of that crap.

Good idea would be SEAFOAM.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motor-treatment/index.html

Turkey tray really is a bad deal.
Get a valley tray (Mondello) to keep hot oil off the bottom of the intake, and some real gaskets.

:)devil
 

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I'd go the "multiple succesive oil changes route" with inexpensive oil , The "shake" will come out quite readily and just running it will "steam" the remaining moisture out Depending on how much time is on the motor "cleaners" could wash out /loosen deposits you might want to stay put, Detergents in oil will safley carry off those same bits and particles It doesnt take but a very small amount of H20 to make a major milk shake Tom
 

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some good info, and remember to spray something down the dipstick tube...the moisture build up in the tube will make you panic when you check the oil level sometimes...i usually spray some wd40, carb cleaner, whatever...it makes the tube look like the motor's full of water when it really isn't. HOpe this helps.
 

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I'd go the "multiple succesive oil changes route" with inexpensive oil , The "shake" will come out quite readily and just running it will "steam" the remaining moisture out Depending on how much time is on the motor "cleaners" could wash out /loosen deposits you might want to stay put, Detergents in oil will safley carry off those same bits and particles It doesnt take but a very small amount of H20 to make a major milk shake Tom
im with tom;)i sank my boat,well i wasnt even in it when it went down last 4th of july,but anyway.i went and bought a few cases of orielly brand 5-30.filters and went to town flushing.poured oil all over the valve train.till it ran out the drain hose.then started it up for few minutes at a time.run it longer each time.took me 5 changes before i felt comfortable running for a long period again.10 quart oil pan.got expensive:|err

runs better than ever.:)grn
oh yeah it was really sink carb and all under the water.no problems since.good luck.travis:)hand
 
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