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Discussion Starter #1
What needs to be done to convert a Gen V bbc, from a flat tappet to a roller tappet cam set up?
I know that a thrust button is necessary at the cam shaft.
I know that it requires lifters with a link bar. Is there any other lifter syle that will work, besides link bar style?
With stock Gen V heads and non adjustable valve train, what needs to be done? Do the heads need to be converted to a stud mounted adjustable rocker setup? Would the screw in conversion rocker studs be sufficient?
Can stamped style rockers be used on a roller cam?
What about pushrods? Will the pushrods need to be lengthend or shortned?
If using a screw in rocker stud adapter, does that change the pushrod length.........H
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The camshaft itself is no different than a MK IV.
The only lifter choice is link bar type, no different than MK IV. The stud conversion is good for a MILD roller, but they are too weak for a solid or stout hyd.
If you go with a retro link bar hydraulic you will need shorter pushrods. Stock rockers will work with MILD hydraulic rollers.
Bob, when you say stock rockers, are you speeking of stock stamped steel?

If i dont use a retro link lifter, will stock pushrods work, or should they be remeasured?
Not looking to put together any thing, wild, just a budget friendly, fairly stock/ mild hydraulic, using as much stock parts as possible.
reason I want to convert to roller, is Mainly to avoild a failure, of breaking in a flat tappet, longevity and ease of maintainance.
I know a roller setup is more expensive, but maybe in the long run, a better deal.
 

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Bob, when you say stock rockers, are you speeking of stock stamped steel?

If i dont use a retro link lifter, will stock pushrods work, or should they be remeasured?
Not looking to put together any thing, wild, just a budget friendly, fairly stock/ mild hydraulic, using as much stock parts as possible.
reason I want to convert to roller, is Mainly to avoild a failure, of breaking in a flat tappet, longevity and ease of maintainance.
I know a roller setup is more expensive, but maybe in the long run, a better deal.
You have no choice but to use the link bar lifters. I was only stating that if you go hyd, you have to go to shorter push rods, regardless of the type lifter. But link bar is your only choice.

Stock pushrods are barely adequate for a mild hyd anyway, and totally unsuitable for a solid.
Yes when I say stock rocker, I mean stamped. Is there another stock rocker?



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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
You have no choice but to use the link bar lifters. I was only stating that if you go hyd, you have to go to shorter push rods, regardless of the type lifter. But link bar is your only choice.

Stock pushrods are barely adequate for a mild hyd anyway, and totally unsuitable for a solid.
Yes when I say stock rocker, I mean stamped. Is there another stock rocker?
Ha Ha, I gotcha!
I totaly understand that link bar lifter is the only choice.
I was unsure of the pushrods, going from hydraulic flat tappet lifters, to hydraulic roller(not even considering a soild application, for this engine) tappet lifters, but i am understanding, that a shorter pushrod is necessary due to a roller lifter being taller?
So i should upgrade pushrod diamiter, also? Would that include guide plates as well?
What about stock springs?
Just trying to cover all the bases.
On Gen 6, factory roller cam valve train, are the rockers, non roller type and are they non adjustable, also?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bob, i have searched around for infoand cant seem to find much on the subject, but just cor comparison sake, would you hapen to know the cam specs, for a stock gen v, hydraulic flat tappet or gen vi, hydraulic roller?
Or tell me where i can find the info?
 

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Bob, i have searched around for infoand cant seem to find much on the subject, but just cor comparison sake, would you hapen to know the cam specs, for a stock gen v, hydraulic flat tappet or gen vi, hydraulic roller?
Or tell me where i can find the info?
All hyd rollers, both stock OEM and link bar are taller.
The stock GM springs are only usefull with VERY mild roller cams. Yes the Gen 6 rockers are the same as Gen 5, same non adjustable.
No I don't know the specs for the Gen 6 cam, but it is VERY mild. I think the most aggressive is the cam for the Merc 496, and its a weak POS.



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cam cores?

I thought I read a while back that the better cam mfg.s make cam cores that will handle a flat tappet as good or better than the good ol days f.t. dealios. While prolly a little more spendy for the core it sure seems a more efficient way to go in the long run, ass-uming my recall/thinking is correct of course. I'm sure we'll all get learned here shortly. Maybe somebody in the know will school us (read that-me) on the many cam core options, applications etc.
 

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If the block is tapped for the cam retainer plate you can use a late model cam and no thrust button. It should be.

Make sure you don't have non adjustable rockers on there now.
 

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Flat tappets are still the mainstay of almost all the aftermarket cam grinders. They will live. What has been learned in the past years is that the LIFTERS are critical, and the builder/owner can't be a moron.
I just put together a stroker bbc for a street vehicle with a hydraulic flat tappet cam. The guy is on a "budget", but I told him I wanted to use a set of Crower lifters with the extra oiling (they have a tiny flat on the outer diameter of the lifter) Hopefully the guy follows my break in instructions, I used Isky Rev Lube on the cam and lifters.
 

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I just put together a stroker bbc for a street vehicle with a hydraulic flat tappet cam. The guy is on a "budget", but I told him I wanted to use a set of Crower lifters with the extra oiling (they have a tiny flat on the outer diameter of the lifter) Hopefully the guy follows my break in instructions, I used Isky Rev Lube on the cam and lifters.
You can groove the lifter bores and accomplish the same thing.
The Crower Hi Lube lifters only lube the cam properly for a short time every rotation. All the rest of the time the groove is in the wrong spot. With the grooved bore its in the right spot full time.



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Flat tappets are still the mainstay of almost all the aftermarket cam grinders. They will live. What has been learned in the past years is that the LIFTERS are critical, and the builder/owner can't be a moron.
:))THumbsUp Are you ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If the block is tapped for the cam retainer plate you can use a late model cam and no thrust button. It should be.

Make sure you don't have non adjustable rockers on there now.
Info, yes, it does have the provision for the cam retainer plate.
What do you mean, make sure i dont have non adjustable rockers on there now? It is a gen v bbc.....
 

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Info, yes, it does have the provision for the cam retainer plate.
What do you mean, make sure i dont have non adjustable rockers on there now? It is a gen v bbc.....
I didn't type what I was thinking for some reason. If you have non adjustable be careful how big a roller cam you put in. You may need to convert it to adjustable. If you are buying a roller cam and don't want to run a button then just buy a Gen VI cam and use the retaining plate.. Make sure you get the timing set for Gen VI if you get that cam. A GM Gen VI timing set is good quality stuff and will come with a retaining plate and hardware. From the Chevy dealer they are only about $60.00. If it's mild performance you can use the factory hyd roller lifters setup. They are inexpensive also. Stock replacement are available reasonable. They use a closed dog bone style lifter guide and spider to retain them. I have some lying around if the block is tapped down the center in the lifter valley.
 

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The Crower Hi Lube lifters only lube the cam properly for a short time every rotation.
I don't have a problem with that as may rotations there are per minute. It's a hydraulic cam with modest spring pressure, and a lifter supplied by a company that I trust.
 
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