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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My '66 F100 needed a new compressor, so I elected to get one filled with ester oil and convert from R-12 to R-134a.

All I can can say is what a $_)(##(*%$ MESS! :D

I took the condenser and evaporater out of the truck so I could flush them out......phucking flush fluid is oily and that shit is everywhere, even on the back of my neck I think. :)sphss

Nothing like progress......:):)punch
 

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Just curious, but what is the reasoning to convert now that there are so many R-12 substitutes available? Don't take this the wrong way at all, not trying to hate. I am genuinely curious what the advantages are. I've been using Redtek and Duracool in my old freon vehicles and tractors for many years with no problems and good performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The old compressor front seal failed and scored the crankshaft. So I figured what the hell.

I was using R-414b, which is $19.00 a can at the commercial A/C wholesaler. R-134a is $7.50.

The conversion didn't cost all that much. A new filter/drier was $15.00.....the auto A/C wholesaler sold it for a 75% discount because it had been on his shelf since the 70's. :D

I had to buy a couple of cans of flush and a quart of vacuum pump oil. I had new hoses made two years ago so they are in good shape.
 

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The old compressor front seal failed and scored the crankshaft. So I figured what the hell.

I was using R-414b, which is $19.00 a can at the commercial A/C wholesaler. R-134a is $7.50.

The conversion didn't cost all that much. A new filter/drier was $15.00.....the auto A/C wholesaler sold it for a 75% discount because it had been on his shelf since the 70's. :D

I had to buy a couple of cans of flush and a quart of vacuum pump oil. I had new hoses made two years ago so they are in good shape.
That 134 isn't worth the $7.50, stop while your ahead. There are some blends that are not much more then the 134 but cool a hell of a lot better.
 

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Check out the link above, they have R12 and Autofrost, Autofrost is a hydrocarbon blend, I have it in 2 cars, one I just did a couple of months ago the other one has been going for about 3 1/2 years still gets down under 40 degrees.
 

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134 Vs R12

I owned a garage for 10yrs & have done a ton of conversions, the drawback to the 134 in your old vehicle is it doesn't have a secondary fan to keep the High side cool, example is when you are in traffic at a stop light your high side will go thru the roof & while sitting there you will be lucky to be blowing 68-72 deg. but once you start moving the manual fan & air movement from vehicle moving will get you back into a comfortable 48-58 deg., if your dead set on doing the 134 put a elec. fan on the radiator, you can wire it up with a relay & a toggle swt. or get trick & wire it up thermostaticlly & it will come on & off on its own. Otherwise I would put freeze 12 in it or put norman R12 in it, I find old cans on Craigs list all the time, I have a couple three cases stashed in my garage. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After a while , you'll go back to R12 ....134 won't cool that well with the old condenser , it's too small
You haven't seen my condenser. It's 1 1/2" thick and 28" X 16". :D

My evaporater has a TXV, so I expect it to work better than an orfice tube system.

This ain't a big deal....the cab of the truck is small and that old York two cylinder can cool it just fine with R-134a.
 

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I dont know how hot it is where you live but I have done MANY R-134 conversions and have NO problems at all...

Make sure that all O-rings are new, if you suspect any old flare type fittings fix them first...

In St Louis we have 90+ temps and 90+ humidity most of July and August (not the last two years however)...

I can get any system to drop to mid 40's on a 90+ degree day so long as the compressor is good, the cap tube is clear and the dryer is new...

Dont back away from the R-134... My 2 cents...
 

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I dont know how hot it is where you live but I have done MANY R-134 conversions and have NO problems at all...

Make sure that all O-rings are new, if you suspect any old flare type fittings fix them first...

In St Louis we have 90+ temps and 90+ humidity most of July and August (not the last two years however)...

I can get any system to drop to mid 40's on a 90+ degree day so long as the compressor is good, the cap tube is clear and the dryer is new...

Dont back away from the R-134... My 2 cents...
You would think very differently if you lived out here in the southwest desert.

I've been doing my home work on Freon, before during and after the hole R12 fleecing of America, the only way I would re-charge a system with 134 was if it was the only gas I could get, and even then there would probably be some gas suppler around that I could get all of the ingredients needed to make my own. It's just gas that has been blended to lower it's flash point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It works OK here in Dallas, but we "only" get up to 105 here. I have a 2008 F150 that blows 42 degree air, my 2001 Excursion discharge is 46 degrees, and my wife's Acura TL is 45 degrees.
 

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You would think very differently if you lived out here in the southwest desert.

I've been doing my home work on Freon, before during and after the hole R12 fleecing of America, the only way I would re-charge a system with 134 was if it was the only gas I could get, and even then there would probably be some gas suppler around that I could get all of the ingredients needed to make my own. It's just gas that has been blended to lower it's flash point.
Well give us the recipie... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Most blends contain at least 50% of R-22.....this refrigerant will degrade seals and o-rings in automotive systems, causing leaks. The R-414b blend worked in my truck because it has all flare fittings, but it caused the compressor front seal to fail.
 

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The whole key is a really good dual fan system to move a Ton of air through the condenser. If you can keep the high side pressure around 200 to 225 and the low side around 45 to 55 with 2 1'/2 to 3 lbs of 134 it will freeze your balls off !! :)
 

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Most blends contain at least 50% of R-22.....this refrigerant will degrade seals and o-rings in automotive systems, causing leaks. The R-414b blend worked in my truck because it has all flare fittings, but it caused the compressor front seal to fail.
This is no different that any other compressor base refrigeration system.

All refrigerant's are blends! Just because DuPont never had to disclose the actual formula to r12, don't think it was not a blend..
 

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My '66 F100 needed a new compressor, so I elected to get one filled with ester oil and convert from R-12 to R-134a.

All I can can say is what a $_)(##(*%$ MESS! :D

I took the condenser and evaporater out of the truck so I could flush them out......phucking flush fluid is oily and that shit is everywhere, even on the back of my neck I think. :)sphss

Nothing like progress......:):)punch
make sure you use the green o-rings with the kit, do not use or reuse the black ones 134 will eat the black ones
 
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