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Crower style stack injection MFI

34270 Views 190 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  digitaloverdrivesyst
5
I bought a Crower MFI set up that was listed as being complete, minus hoses, set up for alcohol, completely rebuilt by Kinsler (except the Crower mechanical fuel pump). It also came with a couple of books/catalogs from Kinsler.

Problem's. One problem is that in the books there isn't a plumbing schematic that shows all of the parts that I have. I don't even know if I need all of the parts that I have. A couple of the parts I don't know what they are. I saw a flathead Ford powered altered at the Antique Drags the other day and that flathead didn't have near the components in his Hilborn MFI that I have, so why do I need them? I don't know what fuel he was running. Another problem, typical for me, is I can't make up my mind on what fuel to run. Avgas, E85, 110, and alcohol are all under consideration. Oh yea, 13:1 468 BBC, tunnel jet drive.

I've got countless numbers of people telling me that I am going to have nothing but problems with this set up and that it will never run correctly. ALL of the people that have said that to me have never owned a MFI.

I've gotten a few people to PM/call me and tell me that once it's dialed in I will be very happy with it. ALL of the people that have said that to me have owned MFI stack systems.

Anywho, here's some pics. The first pic is of my MFI, just so we're on the same page. Second pic is a Kinsler drawing of a old method of plumbing a MFI. Third pic is of a "new" preferred method of plumbing a MFI. Fourth pic is of a plumbing schematic for a Vapor Sepearator Tank that I have. Last pic is plumbing schematic for a Jet Selector Switch that I have.

More pics and questions to follow. Hopefully the pics work and aren't too big.

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On my deal I would shut off the fuel. You will hear the motor lean out. Then pull the mag. You want to leave fuel in the lines for start up, but like you said not flood the motor.

Most put the shut off valve at the pump. But of course after the main bypass. Pretty much why my main came off the pump.

The valve at the pump will hold the fuel above the height of the fuel in the tank when shut off.
You want to leave fuel in the lines for start up,
That's what is really cool about that valve I got from Lowe, as soon as you pull the shutoff it closes and keeps the fuel from draining back and keeps fuel right at the nozzles, you can let it sit over night and it'll start with the touch of the button!..:D
That's what is really cool about that valve I got from Lowe...
What kind of valve is that, does it have an internal check valve or?
That is just a fuel shut off!..
You say Tomato, I say Tamaiter :)grn
I inheritted a set of hoses and some pills for this system if you are looking for any. PM Me if interested. One of the 509 guys runs this stach injection and may be able to help you out a little.



Cy
I shut my engines down like Morg does. I hit the fuel shut off and you will hear the motor lean out (the idle will come up and smooth out) and when that happens I kill the ignition. That way you don't have fuel that sits in your intake runners or cylinders until it starts again, but you still have some fuel in the system.

Paul
I inheritted a set of hoses and some pills for this system if you are looking for any. PM Me if interested. One of the 509 guys runs this stach injection and may be able to help you out a little.



Cy
I got your PM, thanks. I'll be contacting you later today. I got a chance to talk with that 509 guy and look all over his boat. Very cool. :)devil
Shutting down.........

Hey Ray, think about it the fuel stops when the engine stops, when you kill the mag the engine is still turning over and still pumps fuel until it stops, to shut it off clean you have to pull the fuel shutoff first then kill the mag!..:D
I shut my engines down like Morg does. I hit the fuel shut off and you will hear the motor lean out (the idle will come up and smooth out) and when that happens I kill the ignition. That way you don't have fuel that sits in your intake runners or cylinders until it starts again, but you still have some fuel in the system.

Paul

I used to kill it with the fuel shut off, but found over the years it wasn't necessary......Our system works, starts right up, NO PRIMING, no black smoke, and "run on" has never been a problem..........Once again, it seems we're trying to over engineer the mouse trap, K.I.S.S..............Hot rod, get it running as simple as possible. Then if you run accross a problem, fix it. I believe you'll find the simplest of set ups will work wonderfully without a bunch of added headaches, sirens, bells, cables, valves.....KISS, until, and IF, the need arises for additional stuff to fine tune your set up...........BTW, anyone interested in a Victor II with an Enderle hat set up for Alky????..Sell/trade????..............Ray

PS, Art, you have seen our system first hand, (actually "hands on"), and you would have to agree it starts better than a carb with an electric choke, no prime, no black smoke. Even after sitting for months, just a little "Marvel" smell as it comes to life....KISS, words to live by.........
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Does anyone know what the letters on my barrel valve's spool mean?

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Does anyone know what the letters on my barrel valve's spool mean?
Ralph Gorr Fuel Systems

http://www.gorrfuelsystems.com/

Ralph or Spike his son will be able to school you on this stuff they are super nice. I can tell you too that the easiest way to set up your fuel system is to take it to them and have it all flowed and set up for what you are doing. you will get a binder fill of info, also known as the injection bible. I may actually have info about how to set up your system in my book that may be of assistance. If it is possible set it up to go with your system and you will learn a lot.

Cy
BTW, anyone interested in a Victor II with an Enderle hat set up for Alky????..Sell/trade????..............Ray
How much??, what are you looking to trade for???...

PS, Art, you have seen our system first hand, (actually "hands on"), and you would have to agree it starts better than a carb with an electric choke, no prime, no black smoke. Even after sitting for months, just a little "Marvel" smell as it comes to life....KISS, words to live by.........
Yes indeed!..
I can't figure out how to empty the 2 saddle tanks into the T tank without over filling the T tank or emptying the T tank before all the fuel is out of the saddle tanks. I need some sort of float operated fill system/switch operated fill system for the T tank so I can get fuel from the saddle tanks into the T tank without overfilling the T tank... with the photoshop deal I drew out the T tank is going to spew fuel out the vents. The top of the T tank is higher than the saddle tanks and the bottom of the T tank is lower than the saddle tanks.

?


Have a float bowl welded to the tank to fill and not over fill the surge tank. That is the way mine was. You should set up a prmier bottle system and run the pump low and you should have no need for the surge tank. these pumps will self prime. I eliminated my surge tank after my trip to Gorr's.
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Hey hot rod, Stop worrying about a third tank and float bowls and just plumb returns to the tanks in the boat. It's alot cheaper to replumb your'e exsisting tanks than put a surge tank in. Not to mention that you stated this will be a cruise,ski and hot boat. You are right, you will blow the top of the surge tank doing the putabout or towing a skier. GO BACK TO THE BASICS!!!!!! Motor uses what it needs and sends the rest back to the tank for the next round. Don't over think a simple system. If it were a strickty drag boat,That,s how mine and all the real drag boats are done. One tank,One feed and three returns. THAT'S IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. M
My boat will be lake/river hot rod only. No skier's/tubes/wake boards/etc...

I think I can ditch the electric pump. I found out that when these pumps are flowed they do it from a heighth of 3 feet, my boat's 4" tall stringers are not going to be a problem for the mechanical MFI fuel pump.

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you will blow the top of the surge tank doing the putabout or towing a skier.
Here we go again, PLEASE explain this as this does not make one bit of sense!...
Here we go again, PLEASE explain this as this does not make one bit of sense!...
Okay maybe e awrong use of words you may over fill the surge tank and over flow. That depends on how the whole system is plumbed for returns to the main tanks for just a cruise situation. M
Okay maybe e awrong use of words you may over fill the surge tank and over flow. That depends on how the whole system is plumbed for returns to the main tanks for just a cruise situation. M
Ok two ways of doing it, first you use a street low pressure/volume mechanical pump to fill the tank(both ways)if you use a float bowl deal it works just like a carb needle and seat control the level!.. The other way is an inlet/outlet at the same level going back to the main tank(s)no way they can over fill!.. Myself I don't like the float bowl deal because I had one stick on me once, fortunately it stuck open and I went dead fat, if it went the other way I could have had a melt down. That's when I went to the in/out way and the K.I.S.S. method!!..
Ok two ways of doing it, first you use a street low pressure/volume mechanical pump to fill the tank(both ways)if you use a float bowl deal it works just like a carb needle and seat control the level!.. The other way is an inlet/outlet at the same level going back to the main tank(s)no way they can over fill!.. Myself I don't like the float bowl deal because I had one stick on me once, fortunately it stuck open and I went dead fat, if it went the other way I could have had a melt down. That's when I went to the in/out way and the K.I.S.S. method!!..
Is the purpose of the surge tank to make sure the MFI's high pressure fuel pump maintain's a constant source of fuel?
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