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Steady Rollin
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need some schooling on these.

I know the boat i have was setup for a Art Carr TH400. The guys that sold me the boat is keeping the trans. Since i'm rerigging everything anyways, whats is a solid trans to go with?

Are there any special "marine" tricks that need to be done like engines? Can i just look through Jegs, find a manual valve body TH400 and call it good?

Next question revolves around Torque converter, yes or no? I cant imagine the need for one, but I might be wrong here.

This is going to be a river boat, with between 500-750 hp.
 

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I'm famous !
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tranny in boat will be a torque coupler ( see what they are in Rexies on line cataloge ) and no converter :) Make sure you get a tranny with reverse pattern - it goes park > reverse> 1st>2> 3> and a big pan , redline fluid , and a cooler :) :D
 

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Steady Rollin
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1,155 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what kinda cooler? I cant imagine a air / fluid type cooler would work very well. Are there water / fluid types? I'm sure the guy whos going to be doing the work will be up to speed on this business just would like to plan it out in my head first.

Reverse pattern for sure.
 

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I'm famous !
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what kinda cooler? I cant imagine a air / fluid type cooler would work very well. Are there water / fluid types? I'm sure the guy whos going to be doing the work will be up to speed on this business just would like to plan it out in my head first.

Reverse pattern for sure.
heat exchanger - they have a few different kinds :) all water cooled
 

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Highaboosta
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3,431 Posts
I got a new Art Carr trans last spring.
They were good folks to work with. The trans I got was guaranteed to 1800 hp and came with a dyno sheet.
I returned the coupler they supplied because it had to bolt to a flywheel and I am using a flexplate.
I got a super heavy duty coupler from Hughes trans in Az.
The coupler was about $ 525.00

Without a torque converter there's no heat buildup so you don't need much of a cooler or maybe none at all.
 

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Administrator
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There are differences internally including reverse pattern valve body and there are several ways to couple to engine, none of which are using a torque converter. If you need any assistance shoot me a PM. Use of a small 2" core engine oil cooler is advised.
 

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I don't Member a thing
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In order to use a trans in a boat it must have a polished case otherwise it might not work :D:D. Just playin, good luck with your project.
 

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Steady Rollin
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In order to use a trans in a boat it must have a polished case otherwise it might not work :D:D.
Do i get extra points if its triple chromed? I'll see what i can do!

Looks like Summit has some TCI TH400s, reverse manual valve bodies for around $1100, add Rex's coupler + dampener and track down a cooler and i should be out the door for less then 2 g's

I'm still trying to talk the guy out of the Art Carr, hes not sure what he wants to do with it. He was saying he was thinking $1500, but he does not know if he wants to sell it, i know he said its got a converter though.
 

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Maxwell Smartass
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353 Posts
If your boat is just a cruiser, with 600hp or more, and you want to also run somewhere around 80, the Huber built Velvet Drive would be my trans of choice.

They claim to only take 9hp to turn, and can be built for over 1300. We have built serveral schiadas with them, they work excellent. The last 22' we rigged has one with a NA 650hp 557, 27% gears in the V-drive, and it pops skiers up with ease.

Upside to the Velvet Drive: :)devil
1. Simplicity, F-N-R that's it
2. 1:1 Reverse Gear (No reving the boat to get it to back up like a TH400, reverse being as low as 1st which is basically a never used gear it's so low)
3: Size, it's shorter body means no need for a tail support
4: Seperate bell housing gives you the option to run a reverse mounted starter, or an oil cooler bell housing, or just stock if you wish, but options are always a plus.
5: Neutral in a Velvet drive does not let power through, with a turbo 400 the propshaft will turn in Neutral when the engine is running. You have to put it in park to to stop the propshaft from turning, and you can't shift it into park with the engine running.

The problem with running a turbo 400 in park is basically that if it is allowing power through the trans in neutral this means the clutches are still under some friction, so by locking the trans with the park pin you are just putting unnecessary wear on the clutches as it runs :)bulb, major downfall when you want to run the boat on the trailer for an extended period (like a nice warm up for an oil change). If the application was a car this is not an issue since the torque converter provides the slip in that scenario, not the clutches of the transmission. (I'm sure i'll catch some heat for this from someone :):)punch but it is basically the truth, now don't get me wrong we have built many boats with TH400's as well, and this isn't as much of an issue with a normal application, but when you start running 1300+hp turbo motors the trans becomes the weakest link, and you look for every possible way to extend it's life)

Downfall to the Velvet Drive: :|err
1. Boats with big V-drive gears (I'd start with 35's and up for 700hp) need a 2 speed to come out of the water worth a damn.
So in your boats with big turbo motors looking for high top ends with big gears the velvet drive can handle the power, they just can't perform the job.


Just my $0.02 :D :)hand
 

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If you're thinking about a Huber, FYI-- There's a broken Huber trans in parts Spam... And the price is right.. FREE if you come and get it.. Not mine, I just saw it when I was cruising.
 

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I just ordered a TH400 from racetrans.com yesterday. I intended to have Marvin Ripes at A-1 Perfromance Automatic build it, but he is closing up shop and recommended I talk to Jimmy. He has experience with TH400's in a marine application and his price is in line with Jeg's pricing. I'm like you in that I don't need a trans capable of supporting 1800 hp (Art Carr) as I'm only in the mid 600's. He is also somewhat local, so I don't have to pay shipping from Texas. Like all of the others said, small oil cooler and pump drive coupler instead of a converter.

I may have them take park out so the shift pattern will be N-R-N-1-2-3. To keep the prop from spinning in park, I would run a parking brake on the input shaft of the v-drive. This is to remove the possiblity of someone throwing the thing into park by accident with the engine running and breaking the parking pall. I'm still undecided on which way I'll go on this.
 

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t-400 should also have a external line to feed oil to the tail shaft housing to lube the output shaft bushing or have a roller bearing installed
Yes Very Important. I used to actually build these transmissions myself. I always used the rollers in the back end. Most automotive type transmissions that you would buy from Jegs or whoever will likely not have them, or may not have them and only use the std thrust plate. Not good for marine.

Also make sure the vdrive is braced solid to the rear trans cross mount plate so it cannot push and pull on the transmission as you get on and off the throttle. Even with a slip joint in the driveline, under power it doesn't slip much. It's very hard on that rear bearing in the trans. Seen several cases wiped out in that manner. Also do not downshift at throttle... very hard on internal parts. The trans should also be built with a HD sprag and a torque flite snap ring (or equiv) on the second gear clutch pack against the case. Most performance builders would automatically do these things. But it's not the case with stockers. I've seen lots of cases with the ears broken off due to stock snap rings used. HD clutch packs and disks are a given in anything HP. Also depending on HP you may need a high strength input shaft. Stockers will twist right off after awhile up in the 900+ HP range.

I have a very good builder that supplies or T400's (marine) if anyone is interested just shoot me a PM and I will quote whatever you are after. Care needs to be taken in making sure a T400 is built for marine use.
 

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world's oldest teenager
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I just ordered a TH400 from racetrans.com yesterday. I intended to have Marvin Ripes at A-1 Perfromance Automatic build it, but he is closing up shop and recommended I talk to Jimmy. He has experience with TH400's in a marine application and his price is in line with Jeg's pricing. I'm like you in that I don't need a trans capable of supporting 1800 hp (Art Carr) as I'm only in the mid 600's. He is also somewhat local, so I don't have to pay shipping from Texas. Like all of the others said, small oil cooler and pump drive coupler instead of a converter.

I may have them take park out so the shift pattern will be N-R-N-1-2-3. To keep the prop from spinning in park, I would run a parking brake on the input shaft of the v-drive. This is to remove the possiblity of someone throwing the thing into park by accident with the engine running and breaking the parking pall. I'm still undecided on which way I'll go on this.
I have an A-1 Marine Turbo 400 in my Barron Sprint, it has worked flawlessly for many years. It has reverse shift pattern, and I left park in. Works great for changing props on the trailer and warming up the engine and not having the prop turn. Just be careful not to shift into park with the engine running.

I also have a trans in my daughters Mustang that was built by Jimmy at Race trans, it has worked very well too. He does good work.

Good luck with the project.
 

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I have a very good builder that supplies or T400's (marine) if anyone is interested just shoot me a PM and I will quote whatever you are after. Care needs to be taken in making sure a T400 is built for marine use.

I ordered a 400 from Rex and the price was right, everything fit and the polish was really very well done. The linkage and bracket are 'nt cheap for what they are, but on the whole I'm very happy. Now I just need to figure out the direction the linkage goes and where the mount attaches...
 

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I ordered a 400 from Rex and the price was right, everything fit and the polish was really very well done. The linkage and bracket are 'nt cheap for what they are, but on the whole I'm very happy. Now I just need to figure out the direction the linkage goes and where the mount attaches...
Thanx Hallettbutt. It pisses me off every time I buy those friggin little brackets from AC. I'm just going to make some I think out of Stainless. I can probably make 50 for the price of about 5 or 10 of theirs. One of those little aggravating things I never seem to get to. Your post just reminded me again to get on it.
 

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Nice to see you up this early, Mike.

I'm just now at the final stages of going over the list of AN fittings to plumb the boat, quite a trip from the POS that the Hallett was when I bought it last spring. I'm concerned that the 29's in the C500 are going to be too much, but I guess we'll see.

Not to belabor the point, but can you attach a pic or verbalize the direction of the linkage to the side of the case? Is the arm mounted pointing to the top of the case or below? I'm thinking it's below, as the cable mount looks to attach to the case/pan bolts...

I shoulda just gone to the Bank and got in line for a Schiada by Racey, but I can't stand rejection...
 

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Nice to see you up this early, Mike.

I'm just now at the final stages of going over the list of AN fittings to plumb the boat, quite a trip from the POS that the Hallett was when I bought it last spring. I'm concerned that the 29's in the C500 are going to be too much, but I guess we'll see.

Not to belabor the point, but can you attach a pic or verbalize the direction of the linkage to the side of the case? Is the arm mounted pointing to the top of the case or below? I'm thinking it's below, as the cable mount looks to attach to the case/pan bolts...

I shoulda just gone to the Bank and got in line for a Schiada by Racey, but I can't stand rejection...
Arm points down and yes the bracket bolts onto 2 pan bolts. I sent you a PM.
 
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