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Discussion Starter #1
After replacing the heads and cam on my 460 this winter, I dropped a valve after about 40 minutes of driving time.
One of the valve keepers broke in half.
No idea why.
I have the vid of when this happened....
The machine shop is handling the head repair, again.
I now have a nice gouge in one of the pistons.

I just happened to pick up a different block yesterday from a shop that had it left behind from a customer that didn't pay, so..
New Arias pistons, 10/10 crank/new cam bearings, etc.
This thing is nice.
Much better than what I had as far as block is concerned.

Dare I do this: Can I put the cam and lifters from the old block in the new one since it only has maybe 45-50 minutes of actual driving time on it, plus the 30 minute break in on the trailer?
Or should I positively not do that?

My instincts tell me hell no, and I have never done such a thing.
I know every block is a little different, but is this cam still fresh enough to get away with it?
 

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I had about an hour on my cam and lifters when things went bad in my 455. I built a new motor and used the same lifters and cam from the blown motor... Runs good! No issues! Not sure about the difference between D1VE or D9TE though.....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had about an hour on my cam and lifters when things went bad in my 455. I built a new motor and used the same lifters and cam from the blown motor... Runs good! No issues! Not sure about the difference between D1VE or D9TE though.....
How long have you been running it like that?
 

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My opinion is, as long as you keep the lifters on the same cam lobes that they ran on you should be fine. It's the wear pattern between cam and lifter plus the spring pressure staying consistent from old motor that's important, not the wear between cam and bearings. That's my feeling anyway.
 

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Ran it last summer about 5 trips and 3 trips already this year. Like the icecream man said, you are supposed to keep them on the same lobes. I accidentally mixed them up and wasn't able to. However my machinist said the wear was very minimal and they should be okay and so far it has.
 

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hell yea, pull that bitch out and stick it in a new hole! just make sure its clean first.. haha... keep the lifters in order . I'd make sure new block has good/new cam bearings in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hell yea, pull that bitch out and stick it in a new hole! just make sure its clean first.. haha... keep the lifters in order . I'd make sure new block has good/new cam bearings in it.
Yep. The new block has new cam bearings.
 

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The D9 block/crank is externally balanced from the factory and will not be compatable with your zero balanced flywheel/flexplate. Ask the shop that built the engine how they balanced the rotating assembly. Some shops will zero balance a late crank using Mallory metal so that a zero balanced flywheel/flexplate can be used.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The D9 block/crank is externally balanced from the factory and will not be compatable with your zero balanced flywheel/flexplate. Ask the shop that built the engine how they balanced the rotating assembly. Some shops will zero balance a late crank using Mallory metal so that a zero balanced flywheel/flexplate can be used.
I've tried to get info on this block, but none is available.
The shop I got it from took it from another shop that owed money, or something like that...who really knows...??:notsure:
I can see fresh holes on the crank where they did balance it, but other than that I have no info on it.
I assume I will need a different spacer/balancer as well?
Any advantage to using something like a fluidamper, or is stock just fine for a jet boat app?
 

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Ran it last summer about 5 trips and 3 trips already this year. Like the icecream man said, you are supposed to keep them on the same lobes. I accidentally mixed them up and wasn't able to. However my machinist said the wear was very minimal and they should be okay and so far it has.
The cam in my olds....I actually installed it in a 403 firebird in about 1983...Customer bought him a 3/4 race cam from moon equipment....for a 455...3/4 race for a 455 is about full race in a 403....told him so..he didn't believe me...ran plenty poorly...pulled the cam/lifters out, put them back in the box and on the shelf and sold him a cam that fit the application...last year i went back to the shop i had worked at..owner was a buddy..getting stuff together to do my olds..needed a cam...he takes a walk upstairs...brings back that same cam....saved that damn thing almost 30 years...had a couple hrs on it, broke in with GM EOS...and that is what i put it back together with...
has a sweet wear pattern...but i would never think of running it without EOS or a load of zinc additive...
 

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I've tried to get info on this block, but none is available.
The shop I got it from took it from another shop that owed money, or something like that...who really knows...??:notsure:
I can see fresh holes on the crank where they did balance it, but other than that I have no info on it.
I assume I will need a different spacer/balancer as well?
Any advantage to using something like a fluidamper, or is stock just fine for a jet boat app?
Fresh holes drilled in the crank is clue enough that it was balanced but if it has slugs of Mallory in it it would be very obvious. Safe to assume it still has the Detroit balance so look for the weighted spacer and the correct flywheel/flexplate. The harmonic balancer is zero balanced so any will work.
 

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With summit and others starting at $112.95,(high end $400.00+) cam and lifters, is it really worth it? (ring and bearing kits START over $200.00). Seen too many cams go flat with this crap oil we have to use, let alone handicapping the cam/lifter wear pattern in a different block (core shift)

I went full roller ($2000.00+) in a mostly stock bbc rebuild, no cam issues.

Just my .02

Daniel
Mash on it
 
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