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BBC 10qt dooley v-drive.22 gear
First time out i spun it 6800-7000 several times but only for a few seconds...10 seconds max...no problems.

Second time with 40's i spun it 6500..a while...site 6 to windsor and back..maybe 6 miles round trip. It pushed about half a qt. out (just a guess..it wasn't like sprayed on..it was dripping off the hull and puddles on the floor).....

It came out the dipstick tube...the stick wasn't pushed in the last 1/2".
The dipstick doesn't route up through the exhaust...it bends back and ends at the bottom edge of the cyl. head. Motor has the v/c breathers dumping into the collectors with check valves..the check valves are ok and no oil in the hoses, the motor has minimal blow-by...don't think it was overfull..oil pressure was solid and consistent

Could the crank sling that much oil up the d/s tube? Probably doesn't help
not routing up..and don't know if i didn't plug it back in or if it pushed it out. I am tempted to just check the oil level and plug it...don't want it to happen again....it has cracks in the resin on the floor that someone had poured on it and i don't want oil on the wood.
thanx
mike
 

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BBC 10qt dooley v-drive.22 gear
First time out i spun it 6800-7000 several times but only for a few seconds...10 seconds max...no problems.

Second time with 40's i spun it 6500..a while...site 6 to windsor and back..maybe 6 miles round trip. It pushed about half a qt. out (just a guess..it wasn't like sprayed on..it was dripping off the hull and puddles on the floor).....

It came out the dipstick tube...the stick wasn't pushed in the last 1/2".
The dipstick doesn't route up through the exhaust...it bends back and ends at the bottom edge of the cyl. head. Motor has the v/c breathers dumping into the collectors with check valves..the check valves are ok and no oil in the hoses, the motor has minimal blow-by...don't think it was overfull..oil pressure was solid and consistent

Could the crank sling that much oil up the d/s tube? Probably doesn't help
not routing up..and don't know if i didn't plug it back in or if it pushed it out. I am tempted to just check the oil level and plug it...don't want it to happen again....it has cracks in the resin on the floor that someone had poured on it and i don't want oil on the wood.
thanx
mike
you can take an old straight spark plug boot and slide the small end on first and it will make a nice little seal that the dipstick will push into and wont leak;)
 

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Living in a cage of fear
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BBC 10qt dooley v-drive.22 gear
First time out i spun it 6800-7000 several times but only for a few seconds...10 seconds max...no problems.

Second time with 40's i spun it 6500..a while...site 6 to windsor and back..maybe 6 miles round trip. It pushed about half a qt. out (just a guess..it wasn't like sprayed on..it was dripping off the hull and puddles on the floor).....

It came out the dipstick tube...the stick wasn't pushed in the last 1/2".
The dipstick doesn't route up through the exhaust...it bends back and ends at the bottom edge of the cyl. head. Motor has the v/c breathers dumping into the collectors with check valves..the check valves are ok and no oil in the hoses, the motor has minimal blow-by...don't think it was overfull..oil pressure was solid and consistent

Could the crank sling that much oil up the d/s tube? Probably doesn't help
not routing up..and don't know if i didn't plug it back in or if it pushed it out. I am tempted to just check the oil level and plug it...don't want it to happen again....it has cracks in the resin on the floor that someone had poured on it and i don't want oil on the wood.
thanx
mike
Is that the "new" motor?
Pretty awesome, faster boat than the old one?:)hand:)hand
 

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Buy a Lokar locking dip stick. They look great and are made for all types of hot rods and engine combos. It will put a stop to the leak.




Darrell.
 

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The spark plug boot idea Haas spoke of works good. Another way is to use a late model GM tranny dipstick with the flip down locking feature. Just need to cut it down and match up a new "full" mark on it. Jocko
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Is that the "new" motor?
Pretty awesome, faster boat than the old one?:)hand:)hand
Well actually......with the same 40 gears, and the same 12X16 prop, with the same driver:)hand in a boat that might be as much as 100 lbs lighter,

in a 200 yard race i would put my money on the olds by one boat length.

1500 rpm and pin the gas, olds motor spin 4500 rpm and pull to it's mighty 5 red line with little effort....

Poor baby rat motor make all kind of noise huffin and a puffin but not really gettin much done...till about 5k....then it gets all happy...

Been 6500 with the 40's @3/4th throttle...thinkin maybe 7200...and nope, no idea how fast....but 6500 @ crack of dawn on a run to the dam and back is about where i want to be.......


The spark plug boot idea Haas spoke of works good. Another way is to use a late model GM tranny dipstick with the flip down locking feature. Just need to cut it down and match up a new "full" mark on it. Jocko

If i can keep the freekin oil in the motor.....and thank you sir...i believe that will solve the problem...and now that you mention
it i think i remember seeing one someplace...has a little o-ring at the top?
 

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Sounds like something is screwed up with your pan-evacs. A good working pan-evac will pull a vacuum on the pan at high RPM, making it almost impossible to push oil out.
And why run a dipstick at all? We always seal up the hole and not use one. With 10+ quarts in the pan, a good running engine can't burn/leak enough oil to have a lubrication problem without seeing the mess in/on the boat anyway.... just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sounds like something is screwed up with your pan-evacs. A good working pan-evac will pull a vacuum on the pan at high RPM, making it almost impossible to push oil out.
And why run a dipstick at all? We always seal up the hole and not use one. With 10+ quarts in the pan, a good running engine can't burn/leak enough oil to have a lubrication problem without seeing the mess in/on the boat anyway.... just a thought.
Dipsticks are kinda handy when you blow oil out them it makes it easy to tell just how much:)bulb:D

Pan evac works fine...think crankshaft rotation and sling and with reward facing tube instead of up, the oil only has to go about 8" up before the tube levels off......

And dipstick is a handy place to inspect the oil for metallic floaters.
 

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BBC 10qt dooley v-drive.22 gear
First time out i spun it 6800-7000 several times but only for a few seconds...10 seconds max...no problems.

Second time with 40's i spun it 6500..a while...site 6 to windsor and back..maybe 6 miles round trip. It pushed about half a qt. out (just a guess..it wasn't like sprayed on..it was dripping off the hull and puddles on the floor).....

It came out the dipstick tube...the stick wasn't pushed in the last 1/2".
The dipstick doesn't route up through the exhaust...it bends back and ends at the bottom edge of the cyl. head. Motor has the v/c breathers dumping into the collectors with check valves..the check valves are ok and no oil in the hoses, the motor has minimal blow-by...don't think it was overfull..oil pressure was solid and consistent

Could the crank sling that much oil up the d/s tube? Probably doesn't help
not routing up..and don't know if i didn't plug it back in or if it pushed it out. I am tempted to just check the oil level and plug it...don't want it to happen again....it has cracks in the resin on the floor that someone had poured on it and i don't want oil on the wood.
thanx
mike
A few weeks ago I got a ride in a good running boat with a fairly fresh turbo engine. The owner had accidentally not gotten the dipstick back in place properly and it made a similar mess. After pulling the boat out of the water and cleaning up the mess and getting the dipstick properly back in place, it has been fine. Might have been a similar deal?
 

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sparkplug boot, even with evacs the crankcase may see a higher pressure than the top of the engine, my 505 was the same way. i ran evacs off the frt of the v/covers then i ran a puke tank off the back of the v/covers, still would blow out alil oil from my dstik until i followed hass's advise bout the plug boot, never leaked again.
 

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I've never had much luck trying to fix stuff like this without a positive seal....

I plugged the dipstick tube coming out of the pan....

I cleaned it real good with q-tips and acetone about 2 inches down.

Then got some of that epoxy putty that comes in a stick that you have a knead up, rolled it out to make a nice thin rectangular sheet, wrapped it around a WD-40 lubed stainless 3/8-16 bolt, and stuck it in the hole. Unscrew the bolt when the epoxy begins to kick.

I then put a 3/8 setscrew in the hole after the epoxy cured to plug it while I filed the surface nice and flat, and then gave the hole a real light countersink as a relief for an o-ring. Vacuum any debris off the top of the set screw, throw an o-ring on the bolt, and put the bolt back in.

I made a dipstick that I keep in the tool box that I can use if I take the bolt out. I also run the breathers into the header collectors. Works great. Not a drop of oil in the boat after this. ....even with 2 minute + long runs @6000rpms

I'd recommend welding a nut on the dipstick tube....but with your recent luck, stick with epoxy if you're doing it in the boat. :D
 

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You also need a better oil pan or windage tray. Locking dipsticks or just put a bolt in it. At that RPM for that long your going to need a catch can and more venting. Pan vacs are good for drag racing, but in my opinion not so much for endurance.
Also what size stroke is in the motor?
 

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You also need a better oil pan or windage tray. Locking dipsticks or just put a bolt in it. At that RPM for that long your going to need a catch can and more venting. Pan vacs are good for drag racing, but in my opinion not so much for endurance.
Also what size stroke is in the motor?
Ditto!!! After it spit out what it didn't need did it continue to puke or stop! Windage is the problem from the sounds of it. If you want to run 10 minutes at 6500 rpm stuff is going to happen. Nascar fixed the problem with dry sump and endurance boats do it with puke tanks and oil returns. A plug reading will tell you if it a serious blow-by problem and if it shows oil on the plugs then do a leak-down to pin-point the problem. Not that tough to figure out,it just takes time and evaluation to fix. High RPM long periods of time with a push in dip-stick are an oil leak in the making. IMO
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A few weeks ago I got a ride in a good running boat with a fairly fresh turbo engine. The owner had accidentally not gotten the dipstick back in place properly and it made a similar mess. After pulling the boat out of the water and cleaning up the mess and getting the dipstick properly back in place, it has been fine. Might have been a similar deal?
I thought it might have been me..tried it again today with the stick wired in place and it pushed oil past it anyway...and what i thought was 1/2 a quart....2 quarts......

You also need a better oil pan or windage tray. Locking dipsticks or just put a bolt in it. At that RPM for that long your going to need a catch can and more venting. Pan vacs are good for drag racing, but in my opinion not so much for endurance.
Also what size stroke is in the motor?
Locking dip stick is one the program....Dooley pan is not that good?
3.76...


Ditto!!! After it spit out what it didn't need did it continue to puke or stop! Windage is the problem from the sounds of it. If you want to run 10 minutes at 6500 rpm stuff is going to happen. Nascar fixed the problem with dry sump and endurance boats do it with puke tanks and oil returns. A plug reading will tell you if it a serious blow-by problem and if it shows oil on the plugs then do a leak-down to pin-point the problem. Not that tough to figure out,it just takes time and evaluation to fix. High RPM long periods of time with a push in dip-stick are an oil leak in the making. IMO
As fast as it pumped 2 quarts out..it might have a done a few more if
in let it...BTW motor has zilch for blow by....the breathers are vented to the headers and the inside of the hoses are clean and dry...B8es plugs are clean....only have 10 gal. of gas on them..although the electrode looks like it might have seen some heat..Supposed to be an 11 1/2-1 motor set up for straight av....and had 40* locked out in it...i took 4* out of it and ran 50% 91 octane today so i am watchin plugs like a hawk. Other than the dipstick issue the motor doesn't seem to have any kind of oil control problems. 70 psi cold @ 1500 rpm and never less than [email protected] 1000 rpm in gear idle...and no odd fluctuations at anytime


And yep, it will get a spark plug boot in about an hour..till i get a chance to round up a locker/sealer.
thanx
mike
 
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