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21 Daytona
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
can somebody post some pics of the mods done to the place diverter nozzle when used for racing?

I know you add a plate and drill some holes :shock:
 

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I did that to mine. Ours is mainly a lake boat so I need reverse, but it was a biatch to hold steady on the rope, and there was no nuetral. I had seen where someone simply welded their reverse chute closed on a race boat, so I made a plate that fits perfectly in the reverse chute that is flush with the bottum of the diverter, has an ear welded to either side that sticks up in there, drilled thru each so all I have to do is bolt it in for the track. I took a pc of 1, 1/4 tube and welded it to the reverse bucket, took a rotary file and opened up the face of the rev. Bucket so water will spray out to the side. So far it has worked perfectly at the track, and I still have reverse at the lake. This is the best pic I have right now, you can barely see the 1/4" holes drilled in the reverse chute. Hope that's what you were askin about!
 

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21 Daytona
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did that to mine. Ours is mainly a lake boat so I need reverse, but it was a biatch to hold steady on the rope, and there was no nuetral. I had seen where someone simply welded their reverse chute closed on a race boat, so I made a plate that fits perfectly in the reverse chute that is flush with the bottum of the diverter, has an ear welded to either side that sticks up in there, drilled thru each so all I have to do is bolt it in for the track. I took a pc of 1, 1/4 tube and welded it to the reverse bucket, took a rotary file and opened up the face of the rev. Bucket so water will spray out to the side. So far it has worked perfectly at the track, and I still have reverse at the lake. This is the best pic I have right now, you can barely see the 1/4" holes drilled in the reverse chute. Hope that's what you were askin about!
yes thats what I'm talking about, Ive seen some close up pics of them on this site but cant find them now, I was thinking the bucket just had some holes drilled into the side though
 

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I have seen what you are talking about. There will be four to five holes drilled into the side of the reverse bucket so that the water can spray out to the side. Not sure if they drill the nozzle as well, or if there is a gap big enuff where the water can escape the nozzle, and spray out the sides. That's why I did what I did....I knew it would work. And if its done by someone who can weld real well, or someone who has the patience to smooth the weld back off, it doesn't look bad.
 

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confused here

the first pictures look like it would eliminate the reverse, and toms pictures seem like it would make it more efficent. what exactly are we trying to do here (we-you, not we-with me, since i dont understand)
 

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the first pictures look like it would eliminate the reverse, and toms pictures seem like it would make it more efficent. what exactly are we trying to do here (we-you, not we-with me, since i dont understand)

When racing...you need the ability to sit in one place....while idling.
 

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OOoohhhhHHH. :)bulb that being said i see there is no need for reverse. its a pain in the control with the fine touch trying to keep the boat stationary on a lake. i could only imagine if there were multiple high performance things done to ones boat.

so then maybe toms design points the water at the back of the boat for its own deflection. that would make more sense
 

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if you can make the sit still the way it is you really don,t need to change anything. know several boats that just use the the stock setup and do just fine. matter afact raced 21ft sleek and had no problem at the rope. hope your planning to join us at the butte this weekend. would love to see that beautiful boat of yours
 

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Boat Nut
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With my PD set-up... drilled sides, and reverse chute blocked, I can make the boat change direction, ever so slightly to keep it pointed where I want. Best feature is no foreward movement, no hunting for neutral.
 

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if you can make the sit still the way it is you really don,t need to change anything. know several boats that just use the the stock setup and do just fine. matter afact raced 21ft sleek and had no problem at the rope. hope your planning to join us at the butte this weekend. would love to see that beautiful boat of yours
depends how you define "do just fine". i've seen people get into real trouble trying to keep a boat still while holding onto the rope with one hand. i wouldn't even think of recommending somebody go out there with a stock nozzle/bucket, or buttbucket. can somebody survive with it that way? sure. will they develop consistency? not likely. it's complicating something that's already complicated enough. it's a simple temporary mod to make that can be undone if someone wants to restore reverse for river running.
 

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21 Daytona
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
if you can make the sit still the way it is you really don,t need to change anything. know several boats that just use the the stock setup and do just fine. matter afact raced 21ft sleek and had no problem at the rope. hope your planning to join us at the butte this weekend. would love to see that beautiful boat of yours
Not for my boat
19 daytona he's going to Lubbock this weekend
 

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21 Daytona
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
With my PD set-up... drilled sides, and reverse chute blocked, I can make the boat change direction, ever so slightly to keep it pointed where I want. Best feature is no foreward movement, no hunting for neutral.
Have any pics?
 

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i thought i did of the blockoff, but i can't find it and it's all different now.

i took a 1/2" block of aluminum and carved on it so it would fit snugly up in the reverse hole, flush with the opening. then drilled through the side of the reverse and block (3/16, 2 on each side), tapped the holes in the block, and tightened the screws... it held up just fine for 9 years. above the block, drill a 3/4" hole on each side for water to escape. works fine, and won't negatively affect reverse if you remove the block.

here's what i use for a stop. lots of different ways to do this. 3/16" aluminum angle machined down to make the bracket. ss shoulder bolt, with nuts on both sides. i run the diverter up to the stop, check angle, lower it, adjust, re-check. i'm sure there are nicer ways to go, but this has always held the nozzle where i wanted it.



for a bottom stop, i just use different height spacers above the heim. again, check angle, change spacer, check again. easy.

 

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i thought i did of the blockoff, but i can't find it and it's all different now.

i took a 1/2" block of aluminum and carved on it so it would fit snugly up in the reverse hole, flush with the opening. then drilled through the side of the reverse and block (3/16, 2 on each side), tapped the holes in the block, and tightened the screws... it held up just fine for 9 years. above the block, drill a 3/4" hole on each side for water to escape. works fine, and won't negatively affect reverse if you remove the block.

here's what i use for a stop. lots of different ways to do this. 3/16" aluminum angle machined down to make the bracket. ss shoulder bolt, with nuts on both sides. i run the diverter up to the stop, check angle, lower it, adjust, re-check. i'm sure there are nicer ways to go, but this has always held the nozzle where i wanted it.



for a bottom stop, i just use different height spacers above the heim. again, check angle, change spacer, check again. easy.

bob you may want to clean that beauty before you show more pics of it on the internet, I'd hate for you to get into trouble with Tom or Scott
 
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