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Discussion Starter #1
Here are the Pix! Let me know what you guys think and what I should definatly change. I pulled the Front tank out cause it was junk and had holes in it. So I'm in need of a good front tank or some rear side tanks.


















 

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jetboataholic
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1/4 stringer with a Berkeley 12JC pump.

Needs a lot of cleanup and a nice BBC and headers stickin' out of there.:D

How's the floor and stringers in it, are they solid or are the rotted out? I'd be tempted to just rip it out and replace it just for peace of mind.

What are you looking to get out of it?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The floor seems very solid and so do the stringers. I think Im gonna rock the AMC 304 for a bit and see how it does before I change anything Motor wise.

Not sure if I should do anything to pump yet either ... I really want to try it out first but for that I need a Gas Tank. or some twins for the back.
 

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Do you just want something temporary to try it out? You could strap down a portable outboard tank, though a little limited in capacity it would get you a safe fuel supply for some test runs. otherwise you can buy tanks from places like Overtons

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/catalog.cgi?cname=Below-Deck-Gas-Tanks&r=browse&aID=21C

or

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/catalog.cgi?cname=Above-Deck-Gas-Tanks&r=browse&aID=21B

Good luck
Doug
My 73 tahiti had a front tank which I removed due to rust, I installed tanks from a buggy place, They were spun aluminum 11 gal each. I would run the piss out of that boat then sell it and buy the next step up. These are Heavy boats. One of the funnest boats I ever had but not the fastest. You will have a great time.

Cy
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah ... I think I'll play with it as it is and then jump up to a better hull that has full stringers and something that will be better in rougher waters.

Hopefully my next one will have a rail kit already set up for a BBC. I'm going to go measure the tank and I think just get one of the plastic ones for under the bow from Overtons since I doubt I'll put a BBC in this.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok ... i ordered that Tank. Hopefully all will be good and I'll have it on Friday.

I noticed my cooling setup isnt the same as the diagrams where they go into the logs first. Because I dont have snails, should I change the setup?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Any Ideas on the cooling? Apparently the old owner said that he had to shut the valve off completely before shutting the engine down and I can see why. Plus he had turn it way down at Idle.
 

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Can you describe how it is plumbed right now! that will help in knowing what to help you with! WT:)devil
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It comes from the pump to the front of the block ... Out the top of the intake ... into both logs .. out the back of both logs into the OT Pipe. Check out the picks and i think you can see the whole setup.

Yeah ... The trailer needs a little help ... Gonna start on that soon.
 

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In general the plumbing sounds about right. What is the problem that causes you to have to shut off the gate valve when you stop, cut it way down at idle? Water coming back in the engine from the exhaust?

Are those over tramsom pipes home made or factory pieces? I assume they are water jacketed pipes. Where does the water dump into the exhaust stream? I assume close to the tips.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #15
In general the plumbing sounds about right. What is the problem that causes you to have to shut off the gate valve when you stop, cut it way down at idle? Water coming back in the engine from the exhaust?

Are those over tramsom pipes home made or factory pieces? I assume they are water jacketed pipes. Where does the water dump into the exhaust stream? I assume close to the tips.

Doug
Well, I havnt run it yet. The guy i bought it from said the water would dump back in to the Engine.

Water enters the OT Pipes at the Bottom which is why I think Its having that problem. They dont look like Homade pipes but since Ive never seen any before I'm not quite sure.
 

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Just Me
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The problem is there is no control on the quantity of water entering the exhaust. Between the logs jackets and the exhaust pipe should be something like a valve and a T with the excess water going overboard not into the exhaust. While you control the water to the block to control engine temp with the one valve there should be a second valve to control water to the exhaust. And there has to be a bypass, as not all the water running through the engine should be going to the exhaust. Or try routing it this way... pump to a T, T to both logs, logs to water inlets for engine, thermostat housing to a valve to control overall flow, valve to T, one side to overflow, other side to Valve to control water to exhaust, valve to T, T to exhaust.
 

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jetboataholic
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Use a Bassett T-valve to shut the water off to the exhaust when approaching idle RPMs.:)bulb
 

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Use a Bassett T-valve to shut the water off to the exhaust when approaching idle RPMs.:)bulb
That is a good idea HJ and add a dump also to help those 1 1/2' riser pipes. Water will have to be controled out on this setup! My 0.02 WT:)devil
 

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The problem is there is no control on the quantity of water entering the exhaust. Between the logs jackets and the exhaust pipe should be something like a valve and a T with the excess water going overboard not into the exhaust. While you control the water to the block to control engine temp with the one valve there should be a second valve to control water to the exhaust. And there has to be a bypass, as not all the water running through the engine should be going to the exhaust. Or try routing it this way... pump to a T, T to both logs, logs to water inlets for engine, thermostat housing to a valve to control overall flow, valve to T, one side to overflow, other side to Valve to control water to exhaust, valve to T, T to exhaust.
I agree with this also. Just dont pressure the block up!! WT:)devil
 
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