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Glendale Arizona
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Discussion Starter #1
This piece came with the new (used) gullwing I bought. Trying to figure out if I want to plumb it in or not. I know it's not as effective as the bypass setup, but wondering if they work at all.

Never had to use any kind of pressure regulator or bypass before, so torn as to whether or not to cut this in.

Minimum pressure appears to be 50 psi. hard to read due to lettering being worn.

 

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Water pressure regulator or popoff valve

Both devices are great to save the head gaskets from high water pressure. I use @ 7 pounds of water pressure in the motor.
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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i put 1 on this yr.., rather know the milking is coming from condensation than a internal water leak.
 

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Glendale Arizona
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Both devices are great to save the head gaskets from high water pressure. I use @ 7 pounds of water pressure in the motor.
Is it even going to do any good with a minimum setting of 50 psi then? I've never checked mine the way
it is now, and have no idea what kind of water pressure it's putting to the block with nothing in place to
regulate it and no gauge.

The only thing I do know is I've been running this motor the same way for 6 years without a problem.
 

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6TH STREET MAFIA PRES.
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I run one from Rex that looks almost exactly like that one and so far so good And ive ran it for about 6 years.
 

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i put 1 on this yr.., rather know the milking is coming from condensation than a internal water leak.
lmao yea after that milk job you got you better run one!
tho one above is the same one i run,,the little trick is take WD40 and spray inside (both holes) then screw it all the way out till it stops and it will be good for about 15 lbs. no different than the pressure on a radiator cap.
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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lmao yea after that milk job you got you better run one!
tho one above is the same one i run,,the little trick is take WD40 and spray inside (both holes) then screw it all the way out till it stops and it will be good for about 15 lbs. no different than the pressure on a radiator cap.
let's not talk about that, its a sore subject:mad::mad: :D

fyi, this block in the pic had a previous lifter failure which dented the cam gallery(before i got the boat), excessive water pressure found the weakness and blew it out. i didn't notice the dent, neither did the machine shop.
 

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I run one from Rex that looks almost exactly like that one and so far so good And ive ran it for about 6 years.
They are except we change the springs. They need to be set with a gauge and ignore the markings.

To be clear, these are bypass valves to control engine pressure. They are not pressure regulators which can impede flow depending on design.
 

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Glendale Arizona
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Discussion Starter #10
They are except we change the springs. They need to be set with a gauge and ignore the markings.

To be clear, these are bypass valves to control engine pressure. They are not pressure regulators which can impede flow depending on design.
I must be missing something then. If it's a bypass, wouldn't it require one inlet and two outlets? Mine's got one inlet and one outlet. Where's the bypass going? Or do I have to T it somehow?
 

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you'e supposed to run a "t" off the inlet where it comes in to the jet. that goes in to the bottom fitting. the other end goes as an additional overboard dump. thats why some people prefer the watts regulator. so they dont have to drill an extra hole. if you got plenty of holes out the back then i wouldnt worry about it.
 

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21 Daytona
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Squircha, I would plumb it in on one of the outlets on your manifold crossover, by the thermostat and let it bypass any excess water pressure that your engine has,
that way your engine has water at all times. Just my .02
 

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I must be missing something then. If it's a bypass, wouldn't it require one inlet and two outlets? Mine's got one inlet and one outlet. Where's the bypass going? Or do I have to T it somehow?
Dan,
Try thinking of it as a pressure relief valve. (like on your hot water heater) It only dumps water if the pressure exceeds the setting. You would install it in a "T" in your water line, or somewhere in your manifold as someone suggested.

Doug
 

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pressure relief

I run one like that. just take out the spring and replace with a nother. At idle, all thewater goes through the engine unobstructed, as the pressure increases, releaves excess out the back. works great.

Jerry
 

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They will work okay on a stock 454. If you've got much HP, then make sure you go to a 3/4" valve or you have defeated the purpose. A 3/8" valve is not big enough to handle the job on a lot of our boats. Our water bypass kit has handled the job for hundreds of boats over the years. We have just recently up graded our kit to all stainless fittings.
 

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Just don't do what this guy did (cooked his Olds) if you follow the plumbing you can see that he failed to put anything in the "dump line" :D ooops


we've used the "resprung' Rex valves for years ,they work well ! we have a "manifold" set up to pre test them for around 15 psi
 

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Yes, Tom is right. Do not go by the numbers on the valve. We have a tester also that we pre-set every valve with before it is shipped. Here is a picture of our upgraded valve. It comes with all necessary stainless fittings, hose, clamps, overboard water outlet and instructions.
 

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i have never run or seen anyone im aorund with any kind of pressure relief valve??????WONDER WHy

i have never had any problems nor has my ole man.????

can someone tell why if they are needed:Dthanks travis
 

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Amber Racing Services
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i have never run or seen anyone im aorund with any kind of pressure relief valve??????WONDER WHy

i have never had any problems nor has my ole man.????

can someone tell why if they are needed:Dthanks travis
because the pump can put out over 100psi on the water supply for the motor. 100 psi can blow out the intake gaskets on your motor getting water in your oil, and we all know what happens then.

the water pressure should be regulated to 12-15 psi

And to answer the original question for Dan ... yes they work.
 
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