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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody have a way to keep them tight?




Anyone use red locktite on the two flat head screws on the top of the 1150 dominators?? Every time I use it and it heat cycles they come a little loose.

I ve heard stories of them coming loose.. Sure would make a mess if it went throught my Blower..

Now I have to tighten every time I use it
 

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Cantard
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Sounds crude but knurl the screws a little then lock tight them. ( little squeeze with the needle nose vise grips)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The accelerator pump shooter screws?
the large flat head screws, one is located between the primary and one is located in between secondary (intake ports).

I get about 1/10 of a turn every heat cycle.

 

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They make safty screens that mount under the carbs or under the carb adapter on the blower. You should be running the one that goes under the carb adapter no matter what type of carbs or fuel injection system you are using.
That's what I was talkin' about
STEVE
 

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Speedy Member
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the large flat head screws, one is located between the primary and one is located in between secondary (intake ports).

I get about 1/10 of a turn every heat cycle.

Make sure you are using gaskets under them and dont be afraid to locktite them as well. Make sure you dont use so much that it clogs the passage in the screw. Check to see if you have stripped the threads and thats why you cant get a good bite on it.
 

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Resident Ford Nut
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Maybe a little dab of thread locker. I have never had one of those(squirter's) come loose. Two different Domies over 18 year's, I wounder if the threads on yours are messed up :)bulb

Sleeper CP :D
 

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The taper screws with the star head hold way better than those. my.02
i totally agree...i have never seen/had those kind of screws on any Holley's that i ever owned & i've owned a lot over the years! :)...get rid of those screws & put the rite one's in & no more probs! :)

FastRat
 

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My advice to you is to be very carefull, and not overtighten them, they really don't need much torque. The gasket compresses and adds a little preload. Tens of thousands of people running these things, and there not coming loose and falling in the engine. I do however think the design could use improvement. The problem is you only have roughly two threads of engagement into a cast ( very soft ) body. That equals really easy to strip out. Then you find the next problem. That thread if I remember correctly is a 10-28. Heli-coils ( the Emcore Company if my memory is right ) stops at 10-24. No one including Holley themselves has this heli-coil, neat huh? Found all this out the hard way myself. I started pulling those threads out of an expensive custom built Dominator myself. I tried the Moroso screws others are talking about, problem is they are no longer than the stock ones depicted, and therefore offer you no help. My solution was to take the carb to some friends of mine, some old machinests with great equiptment (Harding lathes) to help me out. I had them mill approx. .100 inch I don't remember precisely now, off the mounting bosses of the carb just enough to get to good threads. Then they spun the screws in the lathe and chased the angled head up a bit to get more penetration, also approx. .100 inch. Now when screwed back in I have 3 1/2 threads engagement, problem solved, all is well. Fyi the angle on the screw is a not a 45*or a 37* its some bastard angle 40* or 41* I think. I guess Holley makes nothing to standards to try and make it harder for people to make there own parts. Hope this helps you and others out in some way.:)
 

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Option II

Two things I usually do with blower motors: 1. I always run a screen between the carbs and blower. There are two reasons for this: a. If screws come loose from the carbs or injectors and fall in. b. If an foreign items either come loose while running and go in the blower (Steve Sharp lost an engine to a windshield screw last season!!) Or some butt plug throws something in (I have had this happpen too). 2. It is very easy to drill a safety wire hole in problem screws and safety wire them to an ajoining item. In your case, there is a breather tube next to the screw that can be rapped around. In all my years of doing aircraft and boats, I have never had safety wire fail. I am also a strong advocate of loctite red. As mentioned before, you can continue to crush the gasket by retorques. On some of this stuff I machine teflon gaskets to replace the cardboard gaskets so they don't crush, then loctite everything. Just some ideas. Good luck,
Denis
 
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