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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I dunno is there anything I can paint the shaft with to see where things are hanging up. When I bought the dl I couldn't get it on the shaft at all. After an hour with a file it went on with some encouragement. So I called Tom and he urged me to pull it back apart. So I did and filed some more, slammed a bunch of wheel bearing grease on it and everything seemed fine. Until I blew my motor and went to check it last night and if was stuck again. I don't think it's a twisted shaft only because, when I did tug on it and finally got it loose it slid almost all the way off and got stuck again. I'm going to have to use a pry bar or something for this one cause it ain't moving. Sorry for the long read.
 

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Boat Nut
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Some drive couplers are open ended, so they don't get stuck from the seal.
 

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I had the same issue when I put my together, after fighting with it, filing, greasing any and everything I could think of. I finally pulled it back off and inspected my pump shaft very very closely with a straight edge. I found that it had indeed twisted. It was BARELY and I stress BARELY twisted. I put another shaft in it and the driveline slid right on no issues. Just my cents, I would inspect the splines closely:)bulb
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks if I ever get the focker off I'll look a little closer it didn't look twisted but I didn't try a straight edge. It slid all but all the way off before it got stuck again. Maybe the last inch has a twist to it. It also puzzles me that the 2nd time I put it together, I though I had it licked. It slid like a hot dog in a hallway.
 

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I was thinking of useing lubrabond on mine to keep it free we us that stuff alot for dry film lube on the military aircraft we maintane also used many differant places for alot of things the militry loves this stuff
 

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El shafto de twisto, been there and done that.

Here is a cheat, next time the DL is out, drill and tap a 1/8" pipe hole in the end cap and install a grease fitting, the next time you need to get it off, just hit it with a grease gun, it will come right off.
 

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Sit N' Spin
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El shafto de twisto, been there and done that.

Here is a cheat, next time the DL is out, drill and tap a 1/8" pipe hole in the end cap and install a grease fitting, the next time you need to get it off, just hit it with a grease gun, it will come right off.
Even better fix. Install an aquamet shaft. Works everytime :D
 

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E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
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Once you get it apart, clean and dry everything, and coat the shaft splines with Dykem (machinists dye). Then put the coupler on and off a few times (clean, dry, no grease), and look the shaft over very carefully for regular wear spots, high spots, areas it rubs constantly, not every single scratch, but the places interference is happening.

You may find a twist, or a dinged/damaged spot on a spline.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Thanks all. I like the dye idea. I guess I should get off my azz and go pull/pry it. Edit just fell on azz as dl fell off. I guess Squirtcha and GT were on to something there. lmfao. It still won't slide on far enougph without gettin stuck. I prolly have a twisted shaft. It's a little hard to see past the seal.
 

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21 Daytona
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Kreg, make sure you get it fixed so that it slides easy
before you put that new engine in, you dont want it
pushing on your crank and causing thrust problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Outlaw. Umm just how much will that shaft move? anyone? I checked my thrust bearing and it was into the copper. In other words 1/4" or????? I think it's tight when I bolt it up and the it get pushed fwd.
 

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Thanks Outlaw. Umm just how much will that shaft move? anyone? I checked my thrust bearing and it was into the copper. In other words 1/4" or????? I think it's tight when I bolt it up and the it get pushed fwd.
Hey kreg, Outlaw is giving out good info there. The last thing you would want to do is eat up any end play from the crankshaft.The metal that is getting eatten off the thrust bearing will travel thru the oil and the next thing to go is the cam and it just goes down hill from there.If you are twisting the splines then good for you. It takes a good combo to do that. Personally I would stay away from the grease on the shaft and use anti-sieze compound. It has lubricating properties And still allows easy movement for the splines, messy as hell but works. permatex makes a good product for this. as others have stated make sure you dont have a suction problem. IMO. Mark
 

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21 Daytona
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Thanks Outlaw. Umm just how much will that shaft move? anyone? I checked my thrust bearing and it was into the copper. In other words 1/4" or????? I think it's tight when I bolt it up and the it get pushed fwd.
once your engine is installed make sure your crank can move back and forth with ease

WOW 1/4"???? maybe thats what happened to your cam...

not sure what the thrust is on a BBC is. .007????
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Sorry, I was asking how much the jet will move, sounds like the DL just needs to move the amount of the crank end play. I thought maybe the jet would push the crank if the DL didn't slip.
 

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Sorry, I was asking how much the jet will move, sounds like the DL just needs to move the amount of the crank end play. I thought maybe the jet would push the crank if the DL didn't slip.
Technically, the jet pumps thrust is the slack in the main bearing on a Berkeley, the outer race is sandwitched between the pump suction housing and the thrust cap, so it would have zero, the inner should be minimal, maybe .010", depends on the quality of the bearing and the amount of overall wear.

Hope this is helpful.
GT
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks GT. That put's it in terms I can understand. Thanks for spelling it out for me. I will pull the thrust bearing cap tonite,and check the shaft out. Thanks for your help.
 

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Even a very minor "burr" can keep the DL from moving freely on the pump shaft ,assuming its not twisted often times one can "finese" the splines by pulling the bearing cap ,carefully protecting the bearing (use imagination ,so's not to contaminate with filings) and using a sharp small flat file to "fit" the DL (go/no-go "Dykem" or a marker pen as mentioned prior ) trial and error call if you need help Tom
 
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