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Got the motor back from the dyno and had some good results. Cleaned up the fuel curve a ton & learned a little bit in the mean time. Took an intake manifold temperature reading with and with out the intercooler. At an idle which usually runs pretty hot on a blown deal do to lack of air & fuel the intake temp climed up to 180. When the intercooler was used it dropped it down to 120. Water temp was probably in the mid 70's. At 7000 rpm the intake temp dropped to 78 degrees. Pretty cool stuff. The tune up window was huge. I made 15 pill changes from rich to lean & it acted like gasoline in the 1-5 range. Blower temps after several pulls were cold to the touch. To run the same tune up on gas I would have to be burning C-16 at over $14 bucks a gallon. This stuff is somewhere around $3.25 a gallon and the tune up is using about 30% more. However with my new tune up it should help the milage a ton. It was pretty rich in the cruising range.

Also tested the E85 from the local pump & it was over 90%. When I tested the stuff in the boat that is almost 18 mo old it tested 80%. The holley blue fuel pump fired right up after sitting for the same amount of time. I run a touch of marvel in the mix which keeps the hoses, o rings etc from drying out. No gumming or corrosion was found in anything.:)
 

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Official Test Driver
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Holley Pump

Got the motor back from the dyno and had some good results. Cleaned up the fuel curve a ton & learned a little bit in the mean time. Took an intake manifold temperature reading with and with out the intercooler. At an idle which usually runs pretty hot on a blown deal do to lack of air & fuel the intake temp climed up to 180. When the intercooler was used it dropped it down to 120. Water temp was probably in the mid 70's. At 7000 rpm the intake temp dropped to 78 degrees. Pretty cool stuff. The tune up window was huge. I made 15 pill changes from rich to lean & it acted like gasoline in the 1-5 range. Blower temps after several pulls were cold to the touch. To run the same tune up on gas I would have to be burning C-16 at over $14 bucks a gallon. This stuff is somewhere around $3.25 a gallon and the tune up is using about 30% more. However with my new tune up it should help the milage a ton. It was pretty rich in the cruising range.

Also tested the E85 from the local pump & it was over 90%. When I tested the stuff in the boat that is almost 18 mo old it tested 80%. The holley blue fuel pump fired right up after sitting for the same amount of time. I run a touch of marvel in the mix which keeps the hoses, o rings etc from drying out. No gumming or corrosion was found in anything.:)
Those Holley pumps are pretty robust. The Marvel will always help keep em alive and it usually lubes the impellers or rotors in the pumps not allowing them to lock up or seize! Cool
 

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Highaboosta
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. Took an intake manifold temperature reading with and with out the intercooler. At an idle which usually runs pretty hot on a blown deal do to lack of air & fuel the intake temp climed up to 180. When the intercooler was used it dropped it down to 120. Water temp was probably in the mid 70's. At 7000 rpm the intake temp dropped to 78 degrees. .:)
Please clarify,
At 7000 rpm with the intercooler you got 78 * IAT ? That's a great number for IAT.
How much boost was that pumping out ?

There's not a lot of good info available on alcohol fuel cooling.
With an oxygenated fuel like Ethanol I don't know that air density (intercooled) is as much a factor as it is with gas.

I know my setup is making more HP without the intercooler on E85 but I have no accurate way to measure IAT as the injectors are downstream from the IAT sensor. I've been using the trial and error method. So far so good. :)sphss

Thanks for sharing that info.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Please clarify,
At 7000 rpm with the intercooler you got 78 * IAT ? That's a great number for IAT.
How much boost was that pumping out ?

There's not a lot of good info available on alcohol fuel cooling.
With an oxygenated fuel like Ethanol I don't know that air density (intercooled) is as much a factor as it is with gas.

I know my setup is making more HP without the intercooler on E85 but I have no accurate way to measure IAT as the injectors are downstream from the IAT sensor. I've been using the trial and error method. So far so good. :)sphss

Thanks for sharing that info.
Not sure what you mean by IAT??? The temp was taken inside the intake plenum below the intercooler. At 7000 rpm it was right at 15lbs of boost. I thought there might not be a reason for an intercooler with this stuff but that is not the case. Especially for a driver.

The motor made good power but we detuned it a touch. Put it in a safer zone with some more cushion being its not a racer. Torq was 1050 ft-lb from 3600 to 5100 with a high of 1068 at 5100. Hp at 5000 was 1014 and at 6900 was 1218. The main objective was to really clean the motor up & get the cylinders all in sync which we achieved. Now its in the boat & I have added an O2 sensor to my racepak reading in Lamda. This will avoid any further issues.
 

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Highaboosta
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IAT, Intake air temp

TPS, throttle position switch

IAC, Idle air control

CTS, coolant temp sensor

MAP, Manifold Absolute Pressure

ECU, engine control unit also EMS, engine management system

H/E, hall effect sensor

IPU, inductive pickup unit
 

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steelcomp was here
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That's cool...pardon the pun.:D
What injection? What's the static comnpression on the engine, and of course, what heads? Good power.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That's cool...pardon the pun.:D
What injection? What's the static comnpression on the engine, and of course, what heads? Good power.
Not sure maybe 9.5 to 10.1, my engine builder/nazi won't tell me. Don't ask... its complicated... The heads are Dart 360's that were worked over by Bob Morgan. 1471 mooneyham, with an enderle bird catcher & a K valve. Ended up not needing the high speed lean out. Instead I switched from an 80-a pump to a waterman style twin gear model. Dropped the hat nozzels down 9 thousandths & dropped the main pill a touch. Increased the fuel psi from 30 psi total to 80 psi. Made a big change in the fuel curve. Then Jim at Enderle made me another spool for the barrel valve based on the information we gave him. With all these changes the fuel curve was steady from 3000 to wot.


The air temp in the dyno room was a touch over 80 degrees. The relative altitude during testing was 3000 feet. The numbers mentioned were uncorrected. The pulls started at 3000 and the motor excellerated up through the rpm to a limit at 7 k. No flashing numbers or any smoke and mirrors. Carson is pretty serious on the dyno & is not interested in a bunch of b.s. Another cool feature was I ran my IMCO Power flow exhaust from the boat on the dyno. I am sure they are a bit restrictive for what the motor is trying to do but its all I have and good enough.
 

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Highaboosta
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If your intercooler was only taking out 60 degrees IAT at idle I would say it was taking out less at WOT when the blower was making boost.

To get the IAT down to 78 degrees at 15 # boost is factor of the fuel cooling more than the intercooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If your intercooler was only taking out 60 degrees IAT at idle I would say it was taking out less at WOT when the blower was making boost.

To get the IAT down to 78 degrees at 15 # boost is factor of the fuel cooling more than the intercooler.
I would agree. However like I stated in the cruising range I think the cooler is a benefit.
 

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Head Janitor
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It's a shame that E85 still has some availability problems (depending on where you live, obviously).


I'm under the impression that I could actually run forced induction with near 11.5:1 compression with the stuff?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
One more thing I would like to add. I have been running an MSD 7AL ignition. Its the older gold model. I have a 7AL red box that fails every time I run it after an hour or so. Of course MSD can't find anything wrong with it. However I "was" running an adjustable timing control for the last 8yrs. On the dyno I borrowed a used one from a friend. After the knock sensor went off I double checked the timing and it was up over 37*. So I reset it at 32* and it happend again. The timing control was all over the board. When I put the motor back in the boat I discovered that one is doing the same thing. The timing moved as much as 15*s. So naturally it is no longer a part of the set up. For those of you who may be running them I would strongly suggest you check them frequently. I have one in my mustang & I believe its been ok? I will be checking. As for these higher hp motors I think they are a major no no.:)eh:)
 

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One more thing I would like to add. I have been running an MSD 7AL ignition. Its the older gold model. I have a 7AL red box that fails every time I run it after an hour or so. Of course MSD can't find anything wrong with it. However I "was" running an adjustable timing control for the last 8yrs. On the dyno I borrowed a used one from a friend. After the knock sensor went off I double checked the timing and it was up over 37*. So I reset it at 32* and it happend again. The timing control was all over the board. When I put the motor back in the boat I discovered that one is doing the same thing. The timing moved as much as 15*s. So naturally it is no longer a part of the set up. For those of you who may be running them I would strongly suggest you check them frequently. I have one in my mustang & I believe its been ok? I will be checking. As for these higher hp motors I think they are a major no no.:)eh:)
I had the very same thing happen on my NA BBF with my MSD unit in my old hallett. It increased my timming enough that it caused the engine to hurt two pistons. I sent the box back to MSD and said no problem. Had them test it again for a longer period and then they found the problem. But by then the damage was done. I should have known better when it became hard to start, but I had to get back to the ramp to check it out. No more MSD for me.
 
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