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HorsePower TV dynoed them and saw 7 or 8 hp. I believe the dyno mule was a 383 small block.

MY personal experience with them:
A friend has a 25' Shockwave, 2003 with 496HO. It has always fouled the plugs every 3 or 4 hours of running. We tried everything; I checked the fuel pressure (dead on at 43), we drained fuel, ran different brands, all with injector cleaner, etc, etc.

Finally I gave them the part number and told them to get a set of E3s to try. Just to see what happened. Well, it is going on 23+ hrs now and not a hint of fouling. So, for this particular issue, they work great!
 

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I got a buddy here at work that just put them on his Honda Civic and swears by them. Says he is getting better gas mileage and a small increase of power....I may give them a whirl.
 

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There use to be an Autolite ad that stated "It only takes one good spark". They made the ad in response to Bosch's 2:)sphss,3:))eek:)),and 4 hil:)electrode plugs. After Splitfire was taken to court and had their asses handed to them, you would think that some companies would learn. It's probably only a matter of time before E3 ends up there as well. Anyone interested in a bridge I have for sale in Brooklyn. :p



 

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There use to be an Autolite ad that stated "It only takes one good spark". They made the ad in response to Bosch's 2:)sphss,3:))eek:)),and 4 hil:)electrode plugs. After Splitfire was taken to court and had their asses handed to them, you would think that some companies would learn. It's probably only a matter of time before E3 ends up there as well. Anyone interested in a bridge I have for sale in Brooklyn. :p
Screw your bridge! I'm tryin' to sell off some oceanfront property in Kansas here! :D :)hand
 

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There use to be an Autolite ad that stated "It only takes one good spark". They made the ad in response to Bosch's 2:)sphss,3:))eek:)),and 4 hil:)electrode plugs. After Splitfire was taken to court and had their asses handed to them, you would think that some companies would learn. It's probably only a matter of time before E3 ends up there as well. Anyone interested in a bridge I have for sale in Brooklyn. :p

I heard they also come with a free 1 gallon jug of SNAKE OIL.
 

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If it only takes one good spark, how come HYFIRE (Mallory) and MSD boxes add so much driveability and performance? Why don't we all just run 40,000 volt coils with points and make the same HP???

I don't think they are anything you could actually FEEL, but like I added; they seem to work for a rich environment. It makes sense that anything that adds a larger spark - be it by electrode or added energy - would help an engine at idle. Dunno about upper RPM.

At less than $5/plug, I think they can't hurt.
 

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If it only takes one good spark, how come HYFIRE (Mallory) and MSD boxes add so much driveability and performance? Why don't we all just run 40,000 volt coils with points and make the same HP???
Boxes don't necessarily add any power to EVERY engine.

Engine is a BBC, 468, 10:1, Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, Performer RPM Air Gap intake, Holley 750dp carb, cam specs - 234/244 @ 0.050", 112 LSA, 0.564/0.568 lift, 12* overlap @ 0.050

This engine is in a jet boat.

On the above described engine combo, I was running the 6M-2 MSD box with the MSD R2R dizzy until it gave out on me. So I bypassed the box...

SAME MAX RPM! SAME MAX MPH!

Not one bit of difference was noticed.

My conclusion...an engine that requires massive amounts of fuel would more than likely need a higher voltage spark. But for a mild street build you WILL NOT see a difference between a full on MSD or Mallory CD ignition and a regular HEI dizzy.
 

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Prolly right. I have never TESTED the theory of spark boxes.

Like I said, the only first-hand experience is the aforementioned 496HO. They have mufflers and also have the turbulators still in. As rich as these motors are set-up, my theory is the exhaust restriction is causing the plug-fouling (even richer mix).

The last time we changed fuel and all, we put in a new set of Autolites. Nothing against the plug brand, I don't think ANY plug would live in the motor without something to help it. I had them put the E3s in, since they had the "extra" electrode area to help with the spark. As I said, so far, so good. I keep checking with them each time they take it out and it is still idling/running great. They have had it out 8 times now and it used to foul on the first run with new plugs.
 

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Prolly right. I have never TESTED the theory of spark boxes.

Like I said, the only first-hand experience is the aforementioned 496HO. They have mufflers and also have the turbulators still in. As rich as these motors are set-up, my theory is the exhaust restriction is causing the plug-fouling (even richer mix).

The last time we changed fuel and all, we put in a new set of Autolites. Nothing against the plug brand, I don't think ANY plug would live in the motor without something to help it. I had them put the E3s in, since they had the "extra" electrode area to help with the spark. As I said, so far, so good. I keep checking with them each time they take it out and it is still idling/running great. They have had it out 8 times now and it used to foul on the first run with new plugs.
All the spark box does is provide the multiple sparks (which only exist at 3000 RPM and below...over this RPM the multiple spark circuit simply just cannot keep up sparking that many times at higher RPMs than 3000) and also it steps up the primary voltage to the coil.

A standard ignition coil has a turns ratio of 100:1 (100 turns of coil wire on the secondary for every 1 turn of coil wire on the primary). This means that the secondary voltage will be 100 times the primary voltage fed into it (however the current supply on the secondary will drop to 1/100th the current on the primary to keep the input and output power...i.e. "watts"...the same. Also, 100 turns of wire on the secondary for every 1 turn on the primary...100 times more wire=100 times more resistance = lots more voltage in exchange for a lot less current. Nothing is free, etc etc blah blah blah). On a standard 12 volt system, you have 12 volts at the primary. This would only provide 1200 at the secondary.

Since the turns ratio remains the same, the only way to step the spark voltage up would be to increase the primary voltage. This is where the box comes in. Inside the box there is a step up transformer that steps the primary voltage to somewhere around 470 volts. This voltage feeds into a capacitor in the box and charges that capacitor. When the box is triggered, that capacitor discharges (hence the name "CD", or "capacitive discharge" ignition) that 470 volts into the coil primary, which steps it up to around 47,000 volts.

Now on the subject of plug fouling...

Not sure if I'm correct on this, but I would think running too cold a plug on a rich motor would definitely cause fouling (plug is not absorbing enough heat from the cylinder to burn off excess deposits).

If I'm wrong, can one of the "dyno site bullies" please correct me on this? :D :)hand
 

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Now on the subject of plug fouling...

Not sure if I'm correct on this, but I would think running too cold a plug on a rich motor would definitely cause fouling (plug is not absorbing enough heat from the cylinder to burn off excess deposits).

If I'm wrong, can one of the "dyno site bullies" please correct me on this? :D :)hand
Sounds right to me. But then again I am not a bully so we will wait to hear from the experts.

Paul
 

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Finally I gave them the part number and told them to get a set of E3s to try. Just to see what happened. Well, it is going on 23+ hrs now and not a hint of fouling. So, for this particular issue, they work great!
All the spark box does is provide the multiple sparks (which only exist at 3000 RPM and below...over this RPM the multiple spark circuit simply just cannot keep up sparking that many times at higher RPMs than 3000) and also it steps up the primary voltage to the coil.

Now on the subject of plug fouling...

Not sure if I'm correct on this, but I would think running too cold a plug on a rich motor would definitely cause fouling (plug is not absorbing enough heat from the cylinder to burn off excess deposits).

If I'm wrong, can one of the "dyno site bullies" please correct me on this? :D :)hand
Beer30, Jetaholic is right. I would be willing to bet your buddy could have solved his problem by simply going to a hotter plug. Also, anytime you add mass to the side electrode, the hotter the electrode runs. And the E3 has by far the most massive ground electrode. As for MSDs and Mallory boxes, Jetaholic is right, even they know, one good spark is all it takes.



 

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Beer30, Jetaholic is right. I would be willing to bet your buddy could have solved his problem by simply going to a hotter plug. Also, anytime you add mass to the side electrode, the hotter the electrode runs. And the E3 has by far the most massive ground electrode. As for MSDs and Mallory boxes, Jetaholic is right, even they know, one good spark is all it takes.
See...I knew my mag would work just fine.
 

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Once it's lit, it's lit. Just like it only takes 1 match to light a barbecue if the "lighter fluid mixture" is right...just like it only takes one good woman to open the beer before she brings it to ya. :D

Good thing conceiving kids ain't quite that easy :D
 

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e3=snake oil plugs fo sho, make the new chevy sbc misfire and cause check engine lites. bigger pos plugs than bosche plat plugs. hard to beat a 1.99 ngk plug;):)devil
 

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Spark Plug 101

Here's a copy/paste of something I wrote a while back in response to a guy with a spark gap question. It covers some of this ground as well. This is based on 20 years of Big 3 spark plug and ignition system development.

Here we go:

Spark gap is not about peak power given that you have enough gap exposure to light a hot chamber, which is relatively easy to light. A .025" gap is all you'll need to make peak power. Wider spark gaps are all about trying to get non-homogenious mixtures lit repeatably for idle stability at low intake flow rates and throttle response (tip in). It's statistically more likely to get an ignitable mixture between a wider electrode gap. Also, given the many voltage drops between the coil and the gap, you want the greatest drop to be at the gap. A wider gap has higher resistance, creating a greater voltage drop. The greater the voltage drop the greater the energy delivery, which is what we need to initiate combustion. All the available energy (and voltage) stored in your coil will be consumed with each spark event, with portions of the total lost at each terminal connection, rotor gap, resistor, etc.

Never use spark plugs with 4 ground electrodes in a performance application. There will only be one current path in any spark event. People would like you to believe there are four sparks happening simultaneously in a 4-electrode plug, but that's pure bullshit. Once a spark gap is ionized the gap resistance goes very low (and as a result the burn voltage goes low, maybe only 400 - 500 volts; you only need that 40 kV to break down the gap) and the current will flow in that path until the energy is gone. Next event, maybe a different electrode will support the current flow. Multi-electrode plugs were originally developed to extend sacrificial electrode life. Ignition systems (unless they are bipolar DIS) are negative polarity. The anode is the side electrode (sidewire), so mass is lost from the sidewire more rapidly than the center electrode during energy transfer. In a performance application where you change plugs too frequently to ever wear out the electrodes, all the mass of those 4 electrodes will ever do is quench the fire you're trying to light.

Stick with regular J-gap spark plugs in performance applications unless there are factors that drive you in another direction (electrodes broken off from repeated thermal cycling, etc.). Cut the ground electrodes back until they cover only 35 - 50% of the center electrode with your Dremel tool for maximum efficiency. "Clipped" ground electrodes reduce demand voltage, run cooler, reduce quenching, and increase gap exposure to the mixture. They won't last as long but we likely don't care (think about the hours a car engine runs between changes). The gap size limit will pretty much be dictated by how clean the plugs run at idle and cold-start. If you collect carbon deposits on the insulator tip, this creates a "shunt" resistance which may soon have a resistance lower than the gap and the current will flow along the insulator instead of across the gap causing misfire. When this happens you need to narrow the gap. That's also where heat range selection comes in; keeping the insulator clean enough (from heat burning away carbon) so it won't shunt but cold enough so it won't become incandescent when you're making power. Projected tips will run cleaner and provide better throttle response but might not be the best choice for very high power engines running extended WOT excursions. Leaded fuel applications will necessarily run narrower gaps due to conductive deposits collecting on the insulator.

That's an abbreviated spark plug 101. And for the record, insulators are not made of porcelain. I think some dolls and knick-knacks are, and maybe some old shitters and wash pans, but not spark plug insulators. They are made from a ceramic called Alumina (Al2O3).
 

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Evidently, this word dosen't translate well into Kanook:D
gn7 said:
As for MSDs and Mallory boxes, Jetaholic is right, even they know, one good spark is aboot all it takes eh
Fixed :D
 
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