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Discussion Starter #1
I did a search and found that the Clay Smith mechanical is a great pump. But the 502 block I have isn't set up for that rout. So at the risk of stirring the pot, what types (brands) have you blower & turbo folks using that worked at WFO with no pressure drop.

I've received a few Ideas from a few of you and appreciate the info. I like the Aeromotive stuff (p/n 11108) but at 425 and up, Ouch. It may be the way to go. Or maybe adding a second pump to add more pressure for more volume. I dunno. As you can see from that last quote.:)sphss:D

Where do you have the return lines connet to? the fuel tank or did anyone make a return tank? where did you place it? Before the regulator?

Kyle gave me a great idea. I may roll with it but I still want to replace the Holley Black. I don't want a pressure loss to occur again. We are going to make a small qt tank between the pump and the regulator. I still have some -10 SS hose that I could feed fuel from the pump to the small tank to add fuel volume.

Any pics you all could add of your set ups would be real helpful.
 

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The Great Humongous
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Aeromotive A1000 on my blown 496. 5 seasons on it, not a single issue. Bypass regulator on the end of a fuel log with the return line running to the inlet side of the pump.
 

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I did a search and found that the Clay Smith mechanical is a great pump. But the 502 block I have isn't set up for that rout. So at the risk of stirring the pot, what types (brands) have you blower & turbo folks using that worked at WFO with no pressure drop.

I've received a few Ideas from a few of you and appreciate the info. I like the Aeromotive stuff (p/n 11108) but at 425 and up, Ouch. It may be the way to go. Or maybe adding a second pump to add more pressure for more volume. I dunno. As you can see from that last quote.:)sphss:D

Where do you have the return lines connet to? the fuel tank or did anyone make a return tank? where did you place it? Before the regulator?

Kyle gave me a great idea. I may roll with it but I still want to replace the Holley Black. I don't want a pressure loss to occur again. We are going to make a small qt tank between the pump and the regulator. I still have some -10 SS hose that I could feed fuel from the pump to the small tank to add fuel volume.

Any pics you all could add of your set ups would be real helpful.

I have only one question for you Jimmy.Why electric fuel pump?
 

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Cave,
I have been following your blower post and other ones as well. Klyle and your idea for a surge tank is a good idea. What are you running for pickups in the tanks or are they stock size. This may have been your restriction if they are stock. Here is mine when I made my pickups larger. I did this cause I am going EFI with an 8-71 this winter. I have to think of returns as well. Nice work by the way.
T.J.



 

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Discussion Starter #5
The side is blocked off Jim. The sytem was lean but that's not what took the valve out. I'm concerned with the pressure drop that did occur. Carl gave me some good advice. As did Cruzer & Kyle.

I was just asking those in here what there set up is. 1 Fuel pump, 2? In line or one to each carb? Returned to the pump or the tank.

If the block was bored for the Mech I'd run the Clay Smith. But since I'm already set up for the Electric I'm gunna stick with it. I'm just not sure what way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
TJS I remember your creations from HB:)devil Are you returning to the tank? I hadn't though of the pickups from the tanks. Errrr another sideways movement.lol Since the tanks are glassed in that's gunna be a tough one TJS. I believe that's why Kyle mentioned the reserve tank. I'm going that route for volume. The hope is that the reservoir will store enough fuel to maintain the fuel pressure. Kyles thought is that the fuel is being sucked out quicker than the fuel is being replaced through the lines. So adding a quart of fuel before the Regulator may solve one issue. The Fuel pump is the easy problem. I can Buy that. The rez has to be made. But I have that covered too.
 

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CANT RE MEMBER
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Cave, You Could Also Run Two Pumps, One At Each Tank, As Close To The Tank As You Can, And Run Check Valves Too.
You Can Run One Or The Other Or Both If Your Going To Hammer It, Where They Tee Together Run At Least A #8-#10, We Have Also Boost Referenced Regulaters By Drilling & Taping The Adjusting Stud
 

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Cave

Don't see how a reserve tank will help. You need to maintain pressure. Once the draw off the tank exceeds tha capacity of the fuel delivery system(the pumps) the pressure will drop off.... Also, this tank will need to be sealed with no cap. So, unless the tank is high enough above the carbs to develop enough head pressure, I don't see how it helps.

Also, I forgot to mention a few things when we talked. Like, what kind of regulator are you going to run? Where are you going to mount the pump? What size line line for supply and return? Probably a few more things would come up during the conversation.... Call anytime.
 

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well, since the heavy hitters haven't stepped up to solve the problem, i'll drop my .02 cents in...we all know (at least we should!)(was covered in another thread) that electric pumps are "pushers" NOT "pullers", therefore, they dont work very well in suppying a great demand for fuel...the solution to the problem is to run a belt or cam driven fuel pump which is a puller...they are run on drag cars & work great in all configurations of induction (blown, inj, carbs etc)...u already have the 2V pulley on the bottom, so, all u need is the belt drive pump & belt...Kyle can make a bracket to mount it...u run -10 line to the pump & -10 line out to a Y with -8 line out to the regs (set at 8psi) & carbs

this is all a mute point, if as TJS said, ur tubes in the tank are too small for adequate fuel delivery thru the lines...also...as Cruser said, a reserve tank is not gonna help the problem!

IMO, running a blown gas motor is not that hard to do!...if i can do it, even a "cave" man can do it! lmao :D:D

kick back & re-evaluate :)

FastRat
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Awe now the comedians are coming out.:D Thanks Ron. Drag cars run for less than 10 seconds. They hope. Would a pump like that work as a continuous duty pump?
 

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Awe now the comedians are coming out.:D Thanks Ron. Drag cars run for less than 10 seconds. They hope. Would a pump like that work as a continuous duty pump?
i dont see why not...i ran a Enderle 80-A cam driven pump on my little 301" sbc, Enderle stack injection, street car with n/p...that was before they had belt drive set-up's...now u dont need the cam cover for the pump, so its alot easier

ck this out: www.racingjunk.com...engine parts: fuel pumps/systems
ad# 1410958...hell of a deal!
ad# 1402991... great deal

there are also some other good deals there

FastRat
 

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Couldn't tell exactly, but are your tank supply openings 3/8" ID?

The larger of the two pictured above looked like 3/4" (that's what I have on each tank, with a shut off valve on each I might add).

The 3/4 ID line has about 4 times the cross section area, as the 3/8 line.

I wont try to get into the friction loss, etc., etc., but if one was an overkill-everything-on-the-fuel-supply-side type (like we do everything), larger fittings are in order. Hard to imagine that as a negative.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here is the tank pick up tube. Tiny little 3/8” ID pick up. Anyone ever see some like these?
1/2" NPT to 5/16 ID 90°. This then routes to my Fuel filters then to a "Y" Then into the Holley Black Marine pump.







The Tanks are glassed in. Just enough room to get these out since the tube itself is still flexible to bend. A straight pipe down couldn't be done.

So are all you Blown boaters running 3/4" ID tubing from your tanks?
 

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I did a search and found that the Clay Smith mechanical is a great pump. But the 502 block I have isn't set up for that rout. So at the risk of stirring the pot, what types (brands) have you blower & turbo folks using that worked at WFO with no pressure drop.

I've received a few Ideas from a few of you and appreciate the info. I like the Aeromotive stuff (p/n 11108) but at 425 and up, Ouch. It may be the way to go. Or maybe adding a second pump to add more pressure for more volume. I dunno. As you can see from that last quote.:)sphss:D

Where do you have the return lines connet to? the fuel tank or did anyone make a return tank? where did you place it? Before the regulator?

Kyle gave me a great idea. I may roll with it but I still want to replace the Holley Black. I don't want a pressure loss to occur again. We are going to make a small qt tank between the pump and the regulator. I still have some -10 SS hose that I could feed fuel from the pump to the small tank to add fuel volume.

Any pics you all could add of your set ups would be real helpful.
Hey Cave! Didn't we go thru this awhile back??? FLOW, DEMAMD AND RETURN:)hand
 

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Resident Ford Nut
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Cave which Holley black pump are you using ?



or this one:


The second one is the one I run on our boat ( one on each tank) I don't know how much HP you plan on making but they have no problem supplying the fuel for 900+ hp. It's rated at 150 gph and 140gph at 7 psi. 140 gph can supply 1,600 hp. They have 1/2" lines in and out. They cost $215.00 from Summit.

As stated you need to replace your pickup lines. I had 1/2" pickups made that look like a J 16yrs ago and since my tanks are glassed in I took a hole saw and cut into the tank and inserted the pickup line. I'll see if a can take a picture of one of them tomorrow.

Since boats don't have to push the fuel vary far if you have 1/2" or -10 lines the friction loss is minimal, its not like you have to push the fuel 12-14 feet to the carb as in a car.

You can run a pump like this and if you run a by-pass at the regulator it will be just fine. As stated I run one on each tank with check valves after each pump.

Sleeper CP :D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have the top one.

Ol Guy Yea we did:D.

I spoke to my machinist last night:D I'll run this through the think tank today and see what we come up with. I've always managed to conger up something to make it work. I learned from Kyle & Lee that if you have the right tools you can do anything.

Thanks Sleeper CP. That J tube got the wheels going. I'm not cutting the tanks out. But I may be able to conger up a one piece pick up that may work. With a slight bend here and there.

Thanks everyone. I know I got to start with the pick ups then go on to the rest.

71H, Yea its like 5/16" ID.
 

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Resident Ford Nut
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Hey,

Replace that small pump with a bigger one, either the Holley I listed or the Mallory 140.

As far as the J tube it looks something like this:


1/2" tube with a -8 AN male end.




I just took a hole saw on a high-speed drill bit a tad over 1/2" I think.. I drilled the tanks at the far ( rear end) I had the J tubes made approx 10" and then trimmed them down to be right off the bottom. I lucked out on having them made, the guys makes them for guys who build homebuilt airplanes so he knew just what to do.

Sleeper CP :D
 
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