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79 Sanger Picklefork
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857 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Took the boat out today and it started a little hard. Ran around for awhile and then floated for about 2 hours. Barely started, got over the ramp and it stopped running, got it started, barely, ran for a couple seconds then stop. Volt meter in boat said 12 volts. Got home and put hand held volt meter on the battery and it said 12.47 volts. Tried to start it, electric fuel pump ran for a couple seconds then stopped. Turned the key off they on fuel pump ran started the boat, barely started. Put the battery on the charger, needle went to 8 amps, back to 0 then 8 amps back to 0. After about 15 minutes of back and forth it now is taking a steady charge...Bad alternator or what? Thanks guys..
 

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What the Hell is That?
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1,633 Posts
Battery could be dying. What is the voltage under load? It may say 12 volts with no load but drop to 10 or so under load.
 

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79 Sanger Picklefork
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857 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Battery could be dying. What is the voltage under load? It may say 12 volts with no load but drop to 10 or so under load.
Battery was new last year 950 cca..I just went out and unplugged the charger put a amp. hour meter on it and it said 2 amps..battery is still charging but it sounds like the battery is toast? I think a new battery or fully charged battery should be at least 11 amps..Change thing is the battery is taking a charge.
 

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79 Sanger Picklefork
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857 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks

Thanks for all the info..I know it was kind of a lame question but I just wanted to double check because I have to pull the rear seat out to take out the battery..
 

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Your voltage should read around 13.5 to over 14 volts on your gauge if the alternator is charging correctly when the motor is running. If it is on 12 volts you are running strictly on the battery (until it goes dead).
 

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Before buying a new battery, buy a load tester ($15-20 bucks at HF) and see if it is the battery. If the load tester shows above 12 volts, then it could be your alternator, during driving. If your alternator has been bad, it killed your battery cells. Start fresh and buy an alternator and battery. :D
 

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"Try it Now!"
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3,704 Posts
i just had a batt that would run the stereo, lites, etc..but no crank..Then load tested it...was JUNK
 

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Premium Member
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1,533 Posts
in another post you mentioned always having slow cranking. and the fact that you have to remove the rear seat tells me you have long (and probably old) pos, and neg cables. sounds to be me like you may have a voltage drop issue in the pos, and/or neg cables. also check the power wire from the alt. basically when they start building up resistance they end up becoming a load and using up the power instead of it fully reaching your battery or fully reaching the starter or coil or radio or ignition switch....you name it. voltage drop causes all kinds of problems in the jags i work on.

something to check at least

AP
 

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Don't go buy a load tester...you already have one. Its called a starter. Keep reading.

12.47 volts is acceptable for a battery that has sat idle for more than an hour or so. Put your Voltmeter across the battery...battery, not the cables but the actual battery terminals while cranking. If the volts drop below 9 or so, then the battery is toast. If they don't...leave your ground test lead on the battery and move down the cable towards the starter. Once you get on the other side of the bad connection, you'll see the voltage drop substantially.

To test for a bad connection, put the negative lead of your Voltmeter on the starter + post and the postive lead of your connector on the the battery positive post....if you see more than .02 or so volts, then something's up with the cable. Try the same test while someone cranks it (voltage drop tests are more accurate while testing under load).

If your battery is holding 12.47 after you get home...its probably in decent shape, but measuring the voltage drop of the battery while cranking is the best test. If the battery voltage stays over 9 volts while trying to crank and the problem exists, then its connection or cable problems.
 

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79 Sanger Picklefork
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857 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
How to Check Your Alternator

What is the procedure to check to make sure your alternator is charging? I have one of those cheap HF digital meters with the dial on it. Do you check from the battery terminals or directly on the alternator..and what settings do I set the dial at...volts, amps or what? What numbers should I see if it is charging correctly?
 

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What is the procedure to check to make sure your alternator is charging? I have one of those cheap HF digital meters with the dial on it. Do you check from the battery terminals or directly on the alternator..and what settings do I set the dial at...volts, amps or what? What numbers should I see if it is charging correctly?

I have no idea how to do it beyond yanking it and taking it to autozone. they test them for free... thats how i do it any way.
 

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What is the procedure to check to make sure your alternator is charging? I have one of those cheap HF digital meters with the dial on it. Do you check from the battery terminals or directly on the alternator..and what settings do I set the dial at...volts, amps or what? What numbers should I see if it is charging correctly?
Put your meter directly on the battery posts, if the reading is between 13.2 and 14.7 your alternator is good, any other reading and your alternator is bad.
 

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What is the procedure to check to make sure your alternator is charging? I have one of those cheap HF digital meters with the dial on it. Do you check from the battery terminals or directly on the alternator..and what settings do I set the dial at...volts, amps or what? What numbers should I see if it is charging correctly?
If you can get it started, your regular volt meter needs to read 13.5-14v. If its 12.5 or less it's no good. Or the old fashioned way, start the motor and remove the +terminal, it will die if it's no good.
 

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Premium Member
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Damn I hated working on those electrical pieces of crap. Lucas wiring - yuk.
oh man, there is no amount of money you could pay me to touch one of those. you are talking long and gone from the current jag. there is nothing lucus...not even close in the new stuff. i don't even touch a jag if it has a straight six. i am strictly new product, 3.0l v6, v8 4.0, 4.2 and now the grand daddy of them all. our 5.0 direct injection n/a 380hp s/c 500hp v8. these things are more complex then you could ever dream, and i can't think of any single product that is more complicated in terms of wiring (not problematic, but complicated when you have a problem). ranked #1 2 yrs in a row for customer satisfaction. the old jag is no more.

AP
 
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