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Enclosing an open engine

1K views 10 replies 8 participants last post by  lefty's pride 
#1 ·
Anyone ever done this?

Would the stock Hardin log exhaust work in an enclosed engine bay, or does it still get too hot?

I know that I would have to add a blower for fumes etc, ditch the tunnel ram and go with low profile flame arrestors. My boat really isnt 'fast' and its much more of a family cruiser, this winter I am going to add a swim step and do some other things to make it more condusive to cruising/relaxing and was thinking about going all the way and building an engine cover, that and I just like the way a boat with an enclosed engine looks better than open...
 
#2 ·
I prefer enclosed engines personally..... both mine are closed.
Ventilation- "clamshells" facing fore and aft, port and starboard to create air flow through the engine compartment.
Marine hardware- Far more critical than in an open engine config. Carb, distributor, alternator, fuel pump should be marine.
Think through what you really want- Do you need storage under the engine hatch? Do you want a doghouse or full cover? How will you access the engine? More planning now makes for a better experience later. Look at a few boats, grab a pencil and start sketching....
Enjoy
 
#3 · (Edited)
Hmm didnt realize I'd have to change the distributor/carb/pump etc, a lot of that stuff on my boat is pretty new (just did the MSD upgrade last month). Is it due to the heat that is created with the enclosed engine? I would imagine auto stuff would be subject to lots of heat under a car hood as well...

My other option is to install thru-transom headers, and install a scoop facing backwards to quiet down the cabin a bit during cruising...
 
#6 ·
....Is it due to the heat that is created with the enclosed engine? I would imagine auto stuff would be subject to lots of heat under a car hood as well...
The issue is not heat. The marine electrical parts are tested and certified to prevent or enclose sparks so they cannot ignite gas fumes that may be collecting in the bilge. The marine fuel parts are certified to prevent spilling fuel into the bilge in case there is a part failure.

Fuel pumps may have double diaphrams and a tateltale hose that goes up to the flame arrestor, carburators must not leak raw gas outside the engine if it floods.
 
#4 ·
Storz,

If you cover your engine you will also need some inlet air vents for the carb etc. My Carrera has one 3" vent with flex hose down to the bilge for the vent blower, which also has 3" flex down to the bilge and its own exhaust vent.

Also each side has a 3" inlet with about 18in of flex facing towards the back of the boat. When I was thinking of going to a blower I was told to consider more venting for the engine.

My cover is solid and has no venting above the carb.

Good luck
 
#8 ·
That looks great! Luckily on mine the back seat is there to keep people away from the spinning bits. I won't really be in a position to upgrade the elctrical/fuel pump etc this winter ($$$) but I may go with the other option I spoke with you about, converting over to thru-transom headers and running a scoop backwards.
 
#10 ·
Had a dog house at first, then I built a new interior with full hatch. Lowered floor to make room for cooler and misc stuff. Added swim steps and took proper precaution for vents, hardware..ect. Made with removable pull pins on hindges to take off hatch for fun. I can cruise and talk to my passengers...even hear sound system.
 
#11 ·
logs are going to be your best bet for heat under a hood especially if it is a tight compartment i know with mine i can touch any part after a run and not burn my self
 
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