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Discussion Starter #1
Have a Enderle Hat deal I'm thinking about running for a bit, This set up was (still is ) complete It previously utilized a bullet tank mounted high on the transom fed initially by a block mechanical pump to then gravity feed the enderle injection pump , the bullet tank also simultaneously returned fuel continuously to the saddle tanks to feed the mechanical , Question is can I feed the Enderle pump from my New Imco sump tank directly with my Aeromotive Electric and By pass/returm style regulator (eliminatiing the Gravity feed Bullet tank ) Thanks in advance Tom

Before


The tank I wish to use
 

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Village Idiot
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Where is your fuel pump (the enderle pump) mounted? If it is below your tank than you do not need any help as the pump will always stay "wet" by sitting below the fuel level. You can not feed pressure to the enderle pump as that would cause some problems. The reason the other tank was mounted high was to make sure the pump would be primed. MFI pumps are not all that great at suction, which is why they did not just have it draw from the saddle tanks in the last boat.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Where is your fuel pump (the enderle pump) mounted? If it is below your tank than you do not need any help as the pump will always stay "wet" by sitting below the fuel level. You can not feed pressure to the enderle pump as that would cause some problems. The reason the other tank was mounted high was to make sure the pump would be primed. MFI pumps are not all that great at suction, which is why they did not just have it draw from the saddle tanks in the last boat.

Paul
Thanks Paul Kind of thought this but was hoping to avoid the homely little Bullet deal , Enderle pump is cam driven Thanks Tom
 

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Bostick Racing Engines
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You could always do a belt driven pump set low so that it is even with the lower part of the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You could always do a belt driven pump set low so that it is even with the lower part of the tank.
My Buddy here has just done this (belt driven) on his Blown Gas Hydro his setup was using a similar reserve tank with Holley float bowls , anyhow he was coming to look at my deal tommorow, Thanks very much for the input !

bump the tank up about 4 inches you will be fine
Thought about this as well , the base of the sump is about even with the Dampner might take 6" ish to get it closer to the Cam centerline, again Appreciate the info Tom
 

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Bostick Racing Engines
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If you get it to where 75% of the fuel is above the pump, you should be ok. It could be a bit of a bear to get it to re-start if you try with the fuel level low... but once it's running it would keep primed and be fine. Having the fuel higher is always better... but look at funny cars and dragsters... they do not get that luxury... but then they also do not need to re-start with a partially full tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you get it to where 75% of the fuel is above the pump, you should be ok. It could be a bit of a bear to get it to re-start if you try with the fuel level low... but once it's running it would keep primed and be fine. Having the fuel higher is always better... but look at funny cars and dragsters... they do not get that luxury... but then they also do not need to re-start with a partially full tank.
This has a small "tickler" system run by a small "buzz box" electric fuel pump with a momentary switch at the drivers seat , its been years since I drove the previous boat but to get a relite or intial start we just jogged the switch then cranked it and threw power to the mag , I'll get a pic of that system today Tom
 

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I hope I'm not thread jacking here. But this all seems to concerns me with my build.

17'10" Sanger, saddle tanks, with a sprint car motor in it, on alcohol. With the issues of suction, does priming the injector with a prime bottle help with the suction? I'm assuming not. Will I need a feed tank similar to this set-up? and what about the bypass lines? Is there enough pressure in the bypass to push the fuel uphill? I'm thinking of using the original tube pickups on top of the tank for the return lines and welding pickups to the bottom of the tanks in the rear? I should mention it is a cam driven enderle fuel pump.

If I thread jacked, let me know, and I'll start another thread.
 

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Bostick Racing Engines
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I hope I'm not thread jacking here. But this all seems to concerns me with my build.

17'10" Sanger, saddle tanks, with a sprint car motor in it, on alcohol. With the issues of suction, does priming the injector with a prime bottle help with the suction? I'm assuming not. Will I need a feed tank similar to this set-up? and what about the bypass lines? Is there enough pressure in the bypass to push the fuel uphill? I'm thinking of using the original tube pickups on top of the tank for the return lines and welding pickups to the bottom of the tanks in the rear? I should mention it is a cam driven enderle fuel pump.

If I thread jacked, let me know, and I'll start another thread.
First, I wouldn't use the feed tubes that go to the bottom of the tank for returns for the injection... you want unobstructed free flow of your returns to the tank... possible exception being the fuel shutoff retun as it won't affect how it functions. As far as going "uphill" to the tank... I wouldn't worry about that too much... most of your returns are going to originate above where they end up anyways... that is not a problem. Second, which was actually your first question, the enderle pumps really don't pull fuel all that well... they push fuel... so gravity does help them keep primed and functioning properly. Not saying that they won't keep primed and pushing fuel once they are started and the fuel leve goes below the fuel pump level... it is just that they work better and you have much less starting issues. As for using the starting bottle to keep it running to try to get the fuel pump to start "pulling" fuel... no... you just want to prime it enough to get it to light off and run long enough to allow the fuel pump to fill the lines back to the nozzles after it has been shut off and the fuel drained back to the tank. Actually, once you have a good setup as far as tune and plumbing, you really shouldn't need the primer bottle to restart the engine once it has been started. The best way to go is a little 1-2 gallon "bullet tank that is fed by the side tanks for the injection... it works... much less headaches involved.
 

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Dry.....A NO NO....

One thing you DO NOT want to do is start the engine with a DRY pump.... Using a higher mounted tank assures the pump will be wet as soon as the valve is opened due to gravity.... If you feel you need to "prime" the engine, prime the pump instead...
Ray
 
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