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How do i go about getting the engine oil up to temp...am using stock 454/330 oil cooler....Is there something on the market to buy to fix this problem or what is everyones idea on how to get temp up...Temp after a hard 45 minute run is only 147*..i would like to get temps up to around 160-170...anyone have an idea......Why raise the temp???? moisture in case anyone was gonna ask...Thanks for any help anyone can give..hopefully someone has had/heard of this problem and knows the solution
 

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There are oil thermostats made for such an application. Most every big power blower motor made, (merc racing, stellings ect) will have one installed. Oil temp should be around 215-225. This will allow the condensation to be burnt off, and increase engine life as well. Might try Rex marine to see if they carry them.



Darrell.
 

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I don't know if there is a part to buy (should be) but you can run a bypass around your cooler on the water side and thermostatically contol it, shouldn't be hard to figure out.

Something I did to our 1998 Bravo 330 hp was to rerout the leaving water of the T-stat housing to the cooler, had to move the cooler a little and make a coupler for the water line where the cooler was (copper pipe) not right off the water inlet, seemed to make a huge difference, running 0-30 Amsoil at 185-195 now, seems happy...

GT
 
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My boat must really be cold blooded. Probably doesn't help that I run the river, water is always cool/cold. I was on it for awhile when I took this, never went over 140.
 

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My boat must really be cold blooded. Probably doesn't help that I run the river, water is always cool/cold. I was on it for awhile when I took this, never went over 140.

140 is too low for oil temp. Best to keep the water temp down, and the oil temp up (215-225) It will really help the motor in the long run.


Darrell.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i spoke with the guys at perma cool taday and they say it goes inline before your oil cooler....They are sending me the installation and plumbing instructions so i can look over and see what it says and then i'll make a decision...The blower guys over on Boatfreaks are using them with no issues..and for 45.00 i dont think you can go wrong...
 

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Sorry guys, missed this post before.
I corrected the problem in my deal by routing the exit water from the engine through the cooler like stated above. I set it up so I could change it back and forth from incoming water to exiting water with just one wrench. Found that exit water is the way to go. Still stays much cooler than without a cooler, but not too cool. I am of the simple mind. I would rather this than a thermostat system. I hate adding other parts that can some day break or malfunction and create more problems. K.I.S.S. with my boats. My water leaves the engine around 120-140 and that is great for cooling oil.

I have seen engines hurt like this before. Oil leaves the engine hot and then comes back way too cool and too thick. It tends to hurt bearings and cause problems. If it is showing up at 140 in the oil pan, the incoming oil is probably around 100. That is way too thick.
 

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Sorry guys, missed this post before.
I corrected the problem in my deal by routing the exit water from the engine through the cooler like stated above. I set it up so I could change it back and forth from incoming water to exiting water with just one wrench. Found that exit water is the way to go. Still stays much cooler than without a cooler, but not too cool. I am of the simple mind. I would rather this than a thermostat system. I hate adding other parts that can some day break or malfunction and create more problems. K.I.S.S. with my boats. My water leaves the engine around 120-140 and that is great for cooling oil.

I have seen engines hurt like this before. Oil leaves the engine hot and then comes back way too cool and too thick. It tends to hurt bearings and cause problems. If it is showing up at 140 in the oil pan, the incoming oil is probably around 100. That is way too thick.
K.I.S.S. is right, we've had "0" problems with ours...

GT.
 
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