My question is: Why would you need a one piece front plate? You think the engine block is going to flex?
sphss
I agree with Buzzard. The rear plate tales all the load. Less material = less weight.My question is: Why would you need a one piece front plate? You think the engine block is going to flex?
A lot of extra material on a one piece just to sit there if you ask me.
hilhilhil
Yes, I think that it is the cleanest and strongest way to go. Helps spread the load with 4 bolts instead of two per side.Do I think The block is going to flexhil
Ok so a one piece is a waste of material. I can dig that, especially at the cost of aluminum plate. I can make a pump brace with the saved material.
Now, Is it prefered to capture the water inlets in the plates?
2
I have used old mounts before...Ok I give up! What is the easiest and most acurate way to transfer and mark the fastener holes from the block to the engine plate.
I was trying to use this diagram, but it does not have all the info that You need (OldSquirt, I see now what You were talking about) , not to mention that when I compare the actual holes on the block to the holes on the diagram ,some of the measurements do not match. They are close ,but not close enough to ensure that all holes will line up.
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For the top water outlet holes, the diagram gives a distance apart, but no referance to centerline. The actual holes on the block are prety acurate to the sheet, but they are not centered on cscl.
Same for the bottom mounting holes, there is a distance apart but no referance to cscl. For the bottom left hand holes, You have a dimention from cscl up from main register, which is only close on the block, but on the right hand side there is no referance at all to the upper hole and it is not in line with any thing.
I have been measuing and double checking a hundred times and when I thought It was all good i drill the holes and I still had to make minor adjustments to almost all the holes
If any of You out there has the trick for accurately producing the holes in the plate I would really like to know.
I am serriously thinking about remaking the front plate, just becouse the holes are not perfect, the will work the way they are , but they are not perfect!.....Hal
coffeehand
hal call raceyindustries and tell them the width you need the plates and they will make you a bad @$z set. and they look cleen there in boulder,nvOk I give up! What is the easiest and most acurate way to transfer and mark the fastener holes from the block to the engine plate.
I was trying to use this diagram, but it does not have all the info that You need (OldSquirt, I see now what You were talking about) , not to mention that when I compare the actual holes on the block to the holes on the diagram ,some of the measurements do not match. They are close ,but not close enough to ensure that all holes will line up.
![]()
For the top water outlet holes, the diagram gives a distance apart, but no reference to centerline. The actual holes on the block are prety acurate to the sheet, but they are not centered on cscl.
Same for the bottom mounting holes, there is a distance apart but no reference to cscl. For the bottom left hand holes, You have a dimention from cscl up from main register, which is only close on the block, but on the right hand side there is no reference at all to the upper hole and it is not in line with any thing.
I have been measuing and double checking a hundred times and when I thought It was all good i drill the holes and I still had to make minor adjustments to almost all the holes
If any of You out there has the trick for accurately producing the holes in the plate I would really like to know.
I am serriously thinking about remaking the front plate, just becouse the holes are not perfect, the will work the way they are , but they are not perfect!.....Hal
Every boat is different.
If you need, I can draw this with cad. Then you can ask anything you want and it will tell us.Ok I give up! What is the easiest and most acurate way to transfer and mark the fastener holes from the block to the engine plate.
I was trying to use this diagram, but it does not have all the info that You need (OldSquirt, I see now what You were talking about) , not to mention that when I compare the actual holes on the block to the holes on the diagram ,some of the measurements do not match. They are close ,but not close enough to ensure that all holes will line up.
![]()
For the top water outlet holes, the diagram gives a distance apart, but no reference to centerline. The actual holes on the block are prety acurate to the sheet, but they are not centered on cscl.
Same for the bottom mounting holes, there is a distance apart but no reference to cscl. For the bottom left hand holes, You have a dimention from cscl up from main register, which is only close on the block, but on the right hand side there is no reference at all to the upper hole and it is not in line with any thing.
I have been measuing and double checking a hundred times and when I thought It was all good i drill the holes and I still had to make minor adjustments to almost all the holes
If any of You out there has the trick for accurately producing the holes in the plate I would really like to know.
I am serriously thinking about remaking the front plate, just becouse the holes are not perfect, the will work the way they are , but they are not perfect!.....Hal
x2Just get yourself some transfer screws and it will save you a ton of guessing.
http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/Transfer-Screws-and-Transfer-Punches/2601.html
Get your motor where it is suppose to be (the hardest part) with oversize plate roughed in mounted to it then trim the plates to the rails or however you're mounting them. Do all final shaping last.
Anyone that tells you an off the shelf plate is gonna fit (correctly) without cuttin on it is pullin your leg to sell you some plates.
Center the crank with the pump shaft side to side then set it so the driveline is offset 2º vertically with the crank and pump shaft parallel. Clamp everything in place before drilling anything. Depending on where your pump was mounted it "may not" be centered perfectly between the stringers so you cannot precut the plate and trust that it will be correct for a particular boat. Heights are always different as well depending on what style rails and where they are mounted. Check and recheck before drilling.
2
x3Just get yourself some transfer screws and it will save you a ton of guessing.
http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/Transfer-Screws-and-Transfer-Punches/2601.html
Get your motor where it is suppose to be (the hardest part) with oversize plate roughed in mounted to it then trim the plates to the rails or however you're mounting them. Do all final shaping last.
Anyone that tells you an off the shelf plate is gonna fit (correctly) without cuttin on it is pullin your leg to sell you some plates.
Center the crank with the pump shaft side to side then set it so the driveline is offset 2º vertically with the crank and pump shaft parallel. Clamp everything in place before drilling anything. Depending on where your pump was mounted it "may not" be centered perfectly between the stringers so you cannot precut the plate and trust that it will be correct for a particular boat. Heights are always different as well depending on what style rails and where they are mounted. Check and recheck before drilling.
