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Hey guys. Have a 74 cheetah with a 454 in it. Has glenwood log manifolds and water risers through the transom. Yesterday I checked the oil level and noticed it was milky. First thing I thought he's gaskets or worse, block issue... So as I was check things and draining the oil I was walking back to the driveway when I noticed one of my exhaust flapper was completely gone! Could this be a possible reason for milky oil!? Thank you.
 

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This is a very possible reason. Reversion may have happened although I'm not familiar with logs as I am with OT headers. Just drain the oil and replace the filter, run it and you should be fine. But I'd definitely want to get a replacement flapper
 

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Boss of the McIntyre Mob
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Do you beach it much? That can force water up the exahust.
 

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I went a few years with both mine off...I keep it double anchored and in the flow of the river, nose pointed against the direction.
 

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Hey guys. Have a 74 cheetah with a 454 in it. Has glenwood log manifolds and water risers through the transom. Yesterday I checked the oil level and noticed it was milky. First thing I thought he's gaskets or worse, block issue... So as I was check things and draining the oil I was walking back to the driveway when I noticed one of my exhaust flapper was completely gone! Could this be a possible reason for milky oil!? Thank you.
Fresh motor ? Big Cam ? Have or did you run it on the garden hose recently ?
 

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Not a big cam but a crane cam and valve train, ive had the boat out 8-10 times this year without a problem. I ran it on the hose today after changing the oil. Made a temporary exhaust flap and took it out. Oil is still clear and didnt "make an oil" ran iit for about an hour total. No cooling issues, block didnt feel hot to the touch. Ran smooth, didnt notice any lack of power. So I'm hoping it was just that flapper!! :fingers crossed:
 

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Boss of the McIntyre Mob
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Good luck.
 

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Not a big cam but a crane cam and valve train, ive had the boat out 8-10 times this year without a problem. I ran it on the hose today after changing the oil. Made a temporary exhaust flap and took it out. Oil is still clear and didnt "make an oil" ran iit for about an hour total. No cooling issues, block didnt feel hot to the touch. Ran smooth, didnt notice any lack of power. So I'm hoping it was just that flapper!! :fingers crossed:
Flapper Replacement and retry IMO base in this Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I ordered the replacement flapper. Still have the temporary one on their I made, had it out again tonight, oil is still clear.

Second question cooling related now. I have a valve the controls water flow that comes off the pump, tees and goes into each manifold, from the manifolds to the water divider on the top of the motor, comes over the front and into the end of the manifolds before the risers. Theater temp reads from right by the water divider. I run 100-120° how hot should those manifolds and risers get? Hot to the touch? Ill let the the engine run for a minute before shutting it off just the cycle some water. The manifolds and riser are hot to the touch. normal?
 

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I ordered the replacement flapper. Still have the temporary one on their I made, had it out again tonight, oil is still clear.

Second question cooling related now. I have a valve the controls water flow that comes off the pump, tees and goes into each manifold, from the manifolds to the water divider on the top of the motor, comes over the front and into the end of the manifolds before the risers. Theater temp reads from right by the water divider. I run 100-120° how hot should those manifolds and risers get? Hot to the touch? Ill let the the engine run for a minute before shutting it off just the cycle some water. The manifolds and riser are hot to the touch. normal?
Some thing doesn't make sense (your comings and goings) might be just my reading .. The water travels from the jet drive which is basically your "water pump" and either goes directly to the block (low where the circulating water pump was ) water flow always exits high from the intake manifold having made its way upward thru the motor and back out to the "lake" ,The flow can either go thru the exaust first to the block (hot water method) and the into the engine or directly into the engine (cold water) and out to the exaust The Snail rizers always get exit water last .. yes manifolds will be hot to touch and your temp sounds about right regardless

 

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After T 'ing off from the jet, water should enter exhaust manifolds first. Exit exhaust manifolds and enter the engine at the water pump block off plate. Water will exit the engine at the thermostat block off on top and then go to the exhaust snails where it will be returned to the lake.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Also do you guys run water psi gauges on the intake mani by the divider? Or inline? Or any at all to insure water flow?
 

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Also do you guys run water psi gauges on the intake mani by the divider? Or inline? Or any at all to insure water flow?
I sometimes run a temporary pressure guage off the intake manifold near the exit point just to make sure I have a reasonable setting on my bypass valve. I added the bypass after milkshaking the oil by having too much pressure and leaking H2O between the intake manifold and the head. I was surprised how much pressure the jet can output at high RPMs. Your picture appears to show the water being routed from the exhaust manifold to the intak manifold outlet. That's different than the diagram above and my setup. I think you always want the water inlet low and the exit high to avoid air pockets. Mine is setup like the picture, except I have a pressure release valve that allows water to bypass the engine, go through my oil cooler and out the side of the hull.
 

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Also do you guys run water psi gauges on the intake mani by the divider? Or inline? Or any at all to insure water flow?
APPEARS Your plumbing is incorrect as it stands in the pictures , water /coolant flow needs to be from bottom to top currently your water is entering at the thermostat T and exiting to the rizers at the water pump inlets , these lines are reversed Tom
 

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Do you beach it much? That can force water up the exahust.
The flappers have very little to do with being beached, or water splashing against the transom, and much more to do with the exhaust tips being below the water line when idling. During the overlap period, it like a straw in a glass of soda. Its one thing if there is water in the exhaust and its still open to the atmosphere. But seal it off below the water line, and it will create enough vacuum to pull water all the way to the cylinders regardless how short the overlap is.
Run the exhaust below the water line and you WILL get water in the cylinders without flappers.

BTW Stocky, your water in and out of the engine is backwards like they said.



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Discussion Starter #17
Just got off the phone with Tom, and thank god for that!! The hoses are wrong but he then told me to check the hose from the risers to the tips. All blistered a trip or two from certain failure!!! Thank you Tom for your time!!!
 

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APPEARS Your plumbing is incorrect as it stands in the pictures , water /coolant flow needs to be from bottom to top currently your water is entering at the thermostat T and exiting to the rizers at the water pump inlets , these lines are reversed Tom
BTW Stocky, your water in and out of the engine is backwards like they said.
X3

Change the hoses. Needs to be from the front of the exhaust manifolds to the front of the block and from the front of the intake manifold to the bottom of the snails. Gonna blow some head gaskets the way it is, among other issues. Head gasket could explain milky oil. If it comes up again, my money is on the head gasket or cracked heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yea I'd agree on that if it reappears I'd say HG's as well! Luckily I haven't gotten this out on the river here yet but just the lake hanging out on the sandbar only runs for 10 mins maybe
 
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