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Discussion Starter #1
You guys may remember I had a lean pop at near full throttle last season. The recommendation was made to eliminate one of the fuel filters, take out the sintered bronze filters in the carb, and eliminate the 90 I had right before the regulator...oh...and get one of those volumax regulators.

I am in the process...starting to fit the regulator last night.

Couple questions though...

my fuel pump looks like this: (with out the vent)


1) How do I know its time for a rebuild?
2) Is it worth rebuilding (it has a 1/2in IN 1/2in OUT)
3) Should I just suck it up and get a Race Pump (http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Race-Pumps/Product-Line/Race-Pumps-Billet-Piston-Fuel-Pumps/?autoview=SKU)

If the answer to #3 is yes...will it work with the Volumax regulator I just got?

This is a drawthru turbo system making about 10lbs on a 468 Chevy Jet boat.

Thanks all!
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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You guys may remember I had a lean pop at near full throttle last season. The recommendation was made to eliminate one of the fuel filters, take out the sintered bronze filters in the carb, and eliminate the 90 I had right before the regulator...oh...and get one of those volumax regulators.

I am in the process...starting to fit the regulator last night.

Couple questions though...

my fuel pump looks like this: (with out the vent)


1) How do I know its time for a rebuild?
2) Is it worth rebuilding (it has a 1/2in IN 1/2in OUT)
3) Should I just suck it up and get a Race Pump (http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Race-Pumps/Product-Line/Race-Pumps-Billet-Piston-Fuel-Pumps/?autoview=SKU)

If the answer to #3 is yes...will it work with the Volumax regulator I just got?

This is a drawthru turbo system making about 10lbs on a 468 Chevy Jet boat.

Thanks all!
looks like a big gph pump already, but if its suspect, replace it with a known brand and p# that way you can buy rebuild kits.

no a racepump wont work with that regulator. save yourself a grip and jus buy a 170gph edelbrock mech fuel pump and use the regulator you already have. drawthru jus requires high volume, not high pressure. set the idle pressure at 7psi, call it good.
 

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The clay smith pump is the best.

Those things are so easy to rebuild.

The 6 check valves are pretty much the only thing that goes bad on them. And debris in one of them is enough
 

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Discussion Starter #5
how do I know if mine has gone bad?

It is a Holley pump, I just can't find them being sold any more and can't seem to fund a part number on it.
 

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how do I know if mine has gone bad?

It is a Holley pump, I just can't find them being sold any more and can't seem to fund a part number on it.
That pump is the same pump as the Clay Smith, Edelbrock, BG, and C&S six valve pumps. Informaniac is right, they are virually bullit proof. If it pumps gas, its probably just fine. I have run those pumps 10-12 years. sometimes something get hung up in a valve, or the diaphram dries out and cracks. But the are tough pumps. Holley and Edelbrock no longer sell that pump. Don't ask me why. They are still available from BG and Clay Smith. And C&S sells the most kick ass 6 valve on the planet, but only for small block chevys.

Everything you need to know about rebuilding one is right here:
Edelbrock six valve rebuild instructions

And you can get rebuild kits here. The 4402 kit fits that pump.
C&S Rebuild kits

If you have that pump, don't even consider a Race Pump.



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That pump is the same pump as the Clay Smith, Edelbrock, BG, and C&S six valve pumps. Informaniac is right, they are virually bullit proof. If it pumps gas, its probably just fine. I have run those pumps 10-12 years. sometimes something get hung up in a valve, or the diaphram dries out and cracks. But the are tough pumps. Holley and Edelbrock no longer sell that pump. Don't ask me why. They are still available from BG and Clay Smith. And C&S sells the most kick ass 6 valve on the planet, but only for small block chevys.

Everything you need to know about rebuilding one is right here:
Edelbrock six valve rebuild instructions

And you can get rebuild kits here. The 4402 kit fits that pump.
C&S Rebuild kits

If you have that pump, don't even consider a Race Pump.
Why ,may I ask would you say this?
If he has the extra cash and wants a pump that will handle his needs now and in the future then why not go with a Racepump & reg. ? Which Is what I would suggest he go with.
http://www.racepumps.com/
 

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Not saying the racepump isn't a killer pump. It is. But if I had that pump I would use it until I need something more. He already has a regulator for it, and if it works, use it. I have a race pump. But the 6 valves are on the motor more often that the racpump is. I still don't trust the racepump totally yet. Learning to. But the very first one failed miserably, so I am a little leary. Did a 6 valve let you down at some point and thats why you don't like them?



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mo balls than $cents$
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Not saying the racepump isn't a killer pump. It is. But if I had that pump I would use it until I need something more. He already has a regulator for it, and if it works, use it. I have a race pump. But the 6 valves are on the motor more often that the racpump is. I still don't trust the racepump totally yet. Learning to. But the very first one failed miserably, so I am a little leary. Did a 6 valve let you down at some point and thats why you don't like them?
we fed a blown 540 at 14lbs and a 250hp shot of nitrous under the doms with nothing but a 170gph mech pump from edel, bout 120bucks, preset for 170gph at 7psi, no need for regulator:)devil dont get any easier than that.
 

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Not saying the racepump isn't a killer pump. It is. But if I had that pump I would use it until I need something more. He already has a regulator for it, and if it works, use it. I have a race pump. But the 6 valves are on the motor more often that the racpump is. I still don't trust the racepump totally yet. Learning to. But the very first one failed miserably, so I am a little leary. Did a 6 valve let you down at some point and thats why you don't like them?
Yes , one little piece of trash takes the whole thing down. Probably would do the same with the race pump. But I have ran the system one filter that Howard recommended and have yet to experience that problem.
And for what its worth , I like the clay smith-eddy pump for a draw through or N/A deal but when you need more like with the blow through , its either the Race pump or a belt drive.
The thing is that the racepump will bolt into the factory spot for the pump and deliver enough pressure & volume for any thing from mild to wild.
 

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power valves ?

if your carb(s) are not boost referenced to the power valve circuits and you are pulling enough vacumn under them, the power valves may be closing causing the lean out.
 

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so how do I know if it needs to be rebuilt? I thought it had something to do with how long it held pressure after shut down.
You can't go by that. You can lose pressure thru the carb needles. If you what to know if its up to it, put a gauge on the inet side of the regulator. That pump is good for about 14 lbs at or just off an idle. It will drop as the R's start to climb. But it should put out that much, somewhere just above an idle. But you should have a furl pressure gauge on the carb side of the regulator, where you can read it, while flat out. You should be able to get somewhere around 5lbs when you are WOT. If you can, leave the pump alone. The only thing that goes wrong with the 6 valve pump is if they ingest something, or the diaphram splits. If the diaphram is split, you'll know it. It won't make much pressure, and you have fuel in your oil.



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You may want to look into Race Pumps piston fuel pumps if you are going to replace that thing with another mechanical pump.
 

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Wow Hass, why didn't you think of that:)bulb
Sorry guys - I deserved that. Didn't equate "racepump" with the brand and didn't read all the details in the postings well enough. Regardless, I have been using them for seven + years without problems (not in my boats, however); make sure you have a filter before the pump and must have a quality regulator that can handle the static head. Also I have used a standard pump rod (steel not bronze) on a roller cam without problems.
 

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