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Just wondering what a ball park figure would be to re glass the floor on a 77 sanger bubble deck? Mine is not bad at all but I see the pics posted of the new floors and they look damn good!!
 

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Just wondering what a ball park figure would be to re glass the floor on a 77 sanger bubble deck? Mine is not bad at all but I see the pics posted of the new floors and they look damn good!!

Are you talking about new wood and glass, or just putting new glass over the wood that is in the boat now??? All depends on what you want to be done.

resin, 30-40 bucks a gallon, mat about 5 bucks a yard (50"x36"). 10-15 bucks for supply's.


Whats your location???
 

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Hey Sangster I was kind of interested to, why don't you do this. Say the average job typically runs around "X" dollars. An easy job might run closer to "Y", but a hard job could run as much as "Z". Now these are ballpark figures not quotes, and your idea of good condition and my idea of good condition may vary but this will give you some rough ideas. I'm also contemplating having mine done or trying to fumble through it myself. Some "Ballpark" numbers will help me decide. Thank you, F1~
 

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Well it's like this..... If I was a house painter & you wanted you're house painted, it would be hard to quote/estimate a realistic cost having not seen the condition of the house.. As you say, "your idea of good condition and my idea of good condition may vary"...This is a very true statement and to throw a figure out there is hard to do & be fair at the same time... Even with pictures it's hard to judge the actual extent of the damage as they only show the surface of the damaged area... I will say that I have done floors that were estimated in the $2500.00 range that required alot more work & materials than expected..Only when a floor is opened up can it be honestly evaluated cost wise... And trust me, It harder than hell to explain to a customer that his $2500.00 floor job is now going to cost him $4000.00 due to unforseen issues.. Now you have a guy that don't want to put that kinda bucks into the boat & walks away from the deal leaving me with another bare hull that has no hardware or trailer as we put the hulls on dolly's & have the customer take the trailer home with them.. It takes 90 days to lien sell a hull & trying to get your money back that way makes it really hard to run a business... So, in closing, I will say that a floor job, again depending on what needs to be done & what a customer wants done as far as a finished product,
( ie. wood type, Carbon or Kevlar composites) a floor relacement job can be in the $5,000.00 + range or as little as $2,500.00.... Most jobs take 2-3 weeks to complete, so out of the say $5,000.00 job you need to cover shop rent, utilities & insurance, all related materials & make enough profit to make your own house payment and related expences at home..Materials alone for a floor can easily eat up $1,000.00 plus on most jobs.. I have also had boats brought to me that were so dirty, greasy & full of beer cans that it takes a day or better to clean them up enough to even want to get in them to remove all the hardware before any floor work can be done.... Hope this helps alittle in understanding why it's hard to quote even an honest estimated cost on a sight unseen job... Remember..."Cheap boat are not always cheap boats"...

Here's a floor we recently did that we figured to be a $3,500.00 job.. Once opened up, all the wood had to be removed as it was all delaminated...The cost of this job damn near doubled due to the extra work invloved...

 

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Well thank you for the reply and the input. Was just curious, my flat is in being painted right now, should be back in a week or two, floors are so-so, but once I re-anodize all my hardware I thinks it's gonna be "Dude, new paint, seat covers, anodizing, old floors?" I'm kinda on the fence with what to do with it. I was talking with somone a while back about redoing them in carbon fiber, was told it averaged from $1,500 to $2,500. Was also told it added around 25lbs to your boat. This is a race boat, so the weight matters. Just searching for a little more info before I make a decision. Thank You for your time, F1~
 

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Well thank you for the reply and the input. Was just curious, my flat is in being painted right now, should be back in a week or two, floors are so-so, but once I re-anodize all my hardware I thinks it's gonna be "Dude, new paint, seat covers, anodizing, old floors?" I'm kinda on the fence with what to do with it. I was talking with somone a while back about redoing them in carbon fiber, was told it averaged from $1,500 to $2,500. Was also told it added around 25lbs to your boat. This is a race boat, so the weight matters. Just searching for a little more info before I make a decision. Thank You for your time, F1~
That's a good deal..To do most flats, gunnel to gunnel, including stringers & kickboard will run $600.00 + in Carbon Fiber alone.. Add another $250.00 for resin & fiberglass cloth, another $300.00 for clear & throw in another $75.00-$100.00 for misc. tape, masking & sand paper... That eats up $1200.00 off the top..Now figure in 60 + hrs labor to do the job, at $50.00 an hour that comes to 3,000.00, assuming you can find a glass shop that will work for that, most shops run $85.00 + an hour... But, figuring at $50,00 an hour the total levels out at $4,200.00 +/-
Even if a floor needs no prep work other than flat sanding everthing you are going to burn another 15 to 20 hours.. You're about right on the weight added to the hull at about 25lbs.

Here's a few pics of a floor we did in a Hondo that's at John Miller's having a wooddeck installed.. The floor is a Carbon Kevlar Hybred..







 

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Very nice looking work, kind of an odd combination though new style floor, old school wood deck. Well it will be unique! Thank you for your insight, sounds like my qoute was wishfull thinking. And that came from a reputable shop near you that farms that work out. I will say no more of that. I feel this is out of my price range now, I still have so many places to spend money, 3k plus is just a no go for me. Question, a friend of mine said he saw a thread in here that was talking about chasing cracks out of the floor by grinding them out, re-resin, then sand and polish. Is this possible or b.s.? I'm a do it yourselfer, have a grinder and not afraid to use it, but would like a professional opinion on this approach. I really appreciate all of your advice, thank you for your time, F1~:)
 

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Bitch'n floor. If you have Champain tastes and a beer budget, save more money and do it like the Sangster ride.
 

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Very nice looking work, kind of an odd combination though new style floor, old school wood deck. Well it will be unique! Thank you for your insight, sounds like my qoute was wishfull thinking. And that came from a reputable shop near you that farms that work out. I will say no more of that. I feel this is out of my price range now, I still have so many places to spend money, 3k plus is just a no go for me. Question, a friend of mine said he saw a thread in here that was talking about chasing cracks out of the floor by grinding them out, re-resin, then sand and polish. Is this possible or b.s.? I'm a do it yourselfer, have a grinder and not afraid to use it, but would like a professional opinion on this approach. I really appreciate all of your advice, thank you for your time, F1~:)
Sure, they can be ground out, patched, sanded & polished up, they will usually show that they were patched, but it better to patch them than to leave them as they will suck water into the floor as they are..Make sure "ALL" the water/moisture is out of the floor prior to patching it...
 

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That makes sense. What would be the best product in your opinion for doing this, and what grit should I use for best adhesion/least noticability? Thanks for your input as always!
 

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I use a little 2" disc sander with 100 grit, but 80 or 120 will do.. They will need to be dished out an inch or so & using some 1" cloth tape & some waxed resin, build it back up....then start wet sanding with 400 grit, then 600 & buff......All the materials needed can be bought at Tap Plastics or your local fiberglass supply store..
 

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Interior hull restoration

If you are considering interior hull restoration, it should be done BEFORE the wood deck or hull paint. I have removed glass decks to gain access to the hull interior. Reinstalling the deck is not difficult. This makes access much easier. I have built wood decks on boats, then the owner wants to restore the interior. Check out v-drives/hemi in a wood decker. This shows the plugging of the holes in the stringers, glass deck removal, refinishing the hull interior, then the building of the wood deck.
HARLAN ORRIN
 

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Yeah I realize I am doing it bass ackwards, it just worked out that way. She's an older race boat now, and at the end of last season, my thoughts were to do some paint repairs and repinstripe the old girl. One thing led to another and I found myself sanding her down for my dream paintjob. The floor has cracks, and I just wasn't sure what I wanted to do about it. At this point I would prefer to repair them. Sangster you mention adding cloth in with the repairs, boy that aint gonna look pretty. If I have to I'll buy a belt sander and wipe it all out down to the wood, cause it sounds to me those repairs are going to leave it looking like Frankenstien.
 

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Yeah I realize I am doing it bass ackwards, it just worked out that way. She's an older race boat now, and at the end of last season, my thoughts were to do some paint repairs and repinstripe the old girl. One thing led to another and I found myself sanding her down for my dream paintjob. The floor has cracks, and I just wasn't sure what I wanted to do about it. At this point I would prefer to repair them. Sangster you mention adding cloth in with the repairs, boy that aint gonna look pretty. If I have to I'll buy a belt sander and wipe it all out down to the wood, cause it sounds to me those repairs are going to leave it looking like Frankenstien.
The glass cloth will virtually disappear.. If you don't use it... The cracks will be back sooner than you think....:)bulb
 

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Iv'e got a question for you guys. Me and my buddy have an argument with a bet going on. He says the floors in boats are 100% covered in glass cloth, and you just can't see it because it turns transparent. I say bulls#@t because you can see the cloth where every piece meets, stringers to floor, floor and stringers to bulkhead and transom. If I can see it at all these joints, why cant I see it in the floor itself? Cause it's not there, thats my answere. So for the correct answere to settle our $20.00 bet, Sangster, Harlan, please chime in and set us straight. As usuall thank you for your time and knowledge. F1~
 

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Hull interior refinishing

A lot of the hull interiors have fine cloth or no cloth. When I install a Balsa core floor over the original plywood I seal the balsa core and then overlay mat and cloth. This becomes a structural strong bottom that should not chip, star, or crack.
I have a lightweitht Lavey Craft "C" model. I removed the loose glass, and plugged the stringer holes. I then laminated mat and cloth over the balsa and stringers.
HARLAN ORRIN
 

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The wood was replaced in this floor and a layer cloth was layed over it & it's virtually invisible.. Even where the stringers are tied into the floor it hard to tell that that there's three layers of glass there...

 
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