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Discussion Starter #1
so the last time we were at the lake the boat sucked some water in through the headers into the exhaust valves (because of the water injection into the headers). I believe this happened because i had very low oil pressure so i checked the oil and it was foamy. i drained all the oil and replaced the filter and stuff and everything seems okay but i haven't had it on the water since though. could i have messed anything up?
 

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Your condensation in the oil could possibly from running too cold and not getting the oil hot enough to evaporate the moisture in the motor. Some boats run very cold and never get the oil temp high enough to do this. Some boats can benefit from a thermostat style bypass system like rex marine sells. DO NOT INSTALL A THERMOSTAT INTO THE BLOCK WITHOUT A BYPASS!

A bypass thermostat system will help increase temperature in the block without interferring with water flow through the cooling system and headers.

Another thing you don't want to do is start closing the valve that supplies water to the engine from the pump. Here is the kit from rex.

http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant...&Product_Code=160100&Category_Code=thermokits

Unlikely that you ingested water throught exhaust valves. It is possible but probably would break something before getting that much water into the motor.

Do a compression test on each cylinder and check to see that they are all within an acceptable range. Also check the spark plugs for rust marks. Unlikely but worth checking.

Also make sure that your valve that controls water to the headers is functioning properly, that no water goes through the headers at idle. and that it comes in around 1500-2000 rpm.

Hope this helps.
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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prob not but i'd check anyways;) pull all the spark plugs outta it, block off the water leaving the motor(if you've got a valve on the outgoin water, just close it) , take the ingoin water hose off at the pump that goes to the motor and hook it to your home water hose. turn on the water at house barely on, walk away from it for 5minutes, 5minutes later just crank the motor over and look for signs of water shooting out any of the plug holes. if it doesn't, put it all back together and call it good:)devil

if water shoots outta plug hole, you've prob pushed a head gasket and need to replace it. i hardly ever see any local friends reverb and not hurt at least something:)bulb water doesn't compress
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the info. I think the problem is that it is running too cold because i don't have a thermostat. also i do not have a pressure valve controlling how much water goes into the headers. I only have a garden hose like valve that has to be manually adjusted.
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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thanks for the info. I think the problem is that it is running too cold because i don't have a thermostat. also i do not have a pressure valve controlling how much water goes into the headers. I only have a garden hose like valve that has to be manually adjusted.
that's called a redflag if i've ever seen 1:)bulb do the lil check i mentioned, it only takes 10minutes to know for sure;) don't forget to check the oil for signs of clean water being introduced into the oil pan as well. i had a friend compress water a few yrs back and it split a cylinder, leaked water into the block.ran fine otherwise
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks a ton for your help. i'll get back to you after i get it checked this weekend. thanks again.
 

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thanks for the info. I think the problem is that it is running too cold because i don't have a thermostat. also i do not have a pressure valve controlling how much water goes into the headers. I only have a garden hose like valve that has to be manually adjusted.
Yes you need to have a bassett tee valve or other shutoff to close water to the headers below 1500 rpm.
 

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prob not but i'd check anyways;) pull all the spark plugs outta it, block off the water leaving the motor(if you've got a valve on the outgoin water, just close it) , take the ingoin water hose off at the pump that goes to the motor and hook it to your home water hose. turn on the water at house barely on, walk away from it for 5minutes, 5minutes later just crank the motor over and look for signs of water shooting out any of the plug holes. if it doesn't, put it all back together and call it good:)devil

if water shoots outta plug hole, you've prob pushed a head gasket and need to replace it. i hardly ever see any local friends reverb and not hurt at least something:)bulb water doesn't compress
I wouldnt do that, you have at least 50 psi of water press from the house and I(Plumbing contractor) have seen as high as 120psi, I wouldnt put more than 20 on it if it were mine.
And I know Tom, you said to barely open it at the house, but that wouldnt change sh-t. You'd still end up with the full pressure on it after a minute or two.
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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I wouldnt do that, you have at least 50 psi of water press from the house and I(Plumbing contractor) have seen as high as 120psi, I wouldnt put more than 20 on it if it were mine.
And I know Tom, you said to barely open it at the house, but that wouldnt change sh-t. You'd still end up with the full pressure on it after a minute or two.
i've done it 100's of times hass:D never once blew a gasket doin it, if they can't handle 50-60psi from the house, they'll never hold up in a jetboat;)

i'm no plumber, but if there's more than 60psi on a house i'd be shit scared to own that house. anyone that's ever used sch 60 pvc to run air lines around the shop know what 90psi can do,lol. i'd recommend that you put a regulator on that house, but i'm a mechanic,lmao
 

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i've done it 100's of times hass:D never once blew a gasket doin it, if they can't handle 50-60psi from the house, they'll never hold up in a jetboat;)

i'm no plumber, but if there's more than 60psi on a house i'd be shit scared to own that house. anyone that's ever used sch 60 pvc to run air lines around the shop know what 90psi can do,lol. i'd recommend that you put a regulator on that house, but i'm a mechanic,lmao
Well I deal with different kinds of systems, but its still pipe. I perform hydraulic calculations to show the effects of the inside surfaces of the fittings pipe and every valve known to man.
Static water pressure is what the plumber is speaking of, residual psi is a different ball game. It all depends how much water is moving(flowing). If its still then it is static, if its flowing its residual. To understand the true pressure in any given situation both must be taken into consideration.:)hand
 

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"Jesus Cristo!" you are bored huh?:D Dont think I have ever seen you subscribe to so many threads!
Your condensation in the oil could possibly from running too cold and not getting the oil hot enough to evaporate the moisture in the motor. Some boats run very cold and never get the oil temp high enough to do this. Some boats can benefit from a thermostat style bypass system like rex marine sells. DO NOT INSTALL A THERMOSTAT INTO THE BLOCK WITHOUT A BYPASS!

A bypass thermostat system will help increase temperature in the block without interferring with water flow through the cooling system and headers.

Another thing you don't want to do is start closing the valve that supplies water to the engine from the pump. Here is the kit from rex.

http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant...&Product_Code=160100&Category_Code=thermokits

Unlikely that you ingested water throught exhaust valves. It is possible but probably would break something before getting that much water into the motor.

Do a compression test on each cylinder and check to see that they are all within an acceptable range. Also check the spark plugs for rust marks. Unlikely but worth checking.

Also make sure that your valve that controls water to the headers is functioning properly, that no water goes through the headers at idle. and that it comes in around 1500-2000 rpm.

Hope this helps.
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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Well I deal with different kinds of systems, but its still pipe. I perform hydraulic calculations to show the effects of the inside surfaces of the fittings pipe and every valve known to man.
Static water pressure is what the plumber is speaking of, residual psi is a different ball game. It all depends how much water is moving(flowing). If its still then it is static, if its flowing its residual. To understand the true pressure in any given situation both must be taken into consideration.:)hand
lol:D can we just all agree that jetboats WITHOUT any kinda pressure relief bypass at all installed will see at least 60psi from a hard wack of the throttle:D the point of barely turning on the watertap had absolutely nothing to do with pressure of any kind, be it air or water, the point was to slowly let it build, not shock it like a jetpump will:)bulb
 

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lol:D can we just all agree that jetboats WITHOUT any kinda pressure relief bypass at all installed will see at least 60psi from a hard wack of the throttle:D the point of barely turning on the watertap had absolutely nothing to do with pressure of any kind, be it air or water, the point was to slowly let it build, not shock it like a jetpump will:)bulb
Ya, I was just messin with ya!
 

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ok i got a question what style headers are you running to need a regulator for the water pressure. i love the bye pass i bought for my boat, cp proformance has a ford 460 kit. not that it was good to run such a low temp i never had milky oil i never saw temps over 100 deg f it ran like that from 1979 to 2007, and for the press. i read on the berk. site that a jet can get up to 120psi. dont know if that is true.
 

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P'stroke , occasional milky oil in jets from "too cold engine" , misadjusted water control , fowled "T" valve , reversion" etc is a common occurance , It may take a couple of oil drains to get it cleared up , in answer to you question its not likely (depending on the severity of the intermix and how long you ran it ) that you did any real harm , Clear it up and go out and drive it ! Tom
 

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I wouldnt do that, you have at least 50 psi of water press from the house and I(Plumbing contractor) have seen as high as 120psi, I wouldnt put more than 20 on it if it were mine.
And I know Tom, you said to barely open it at the house, but that wouldnt change sh-t. You'd still end up with the full pressure on it after a minute or two.
Isn't 40-45 what they want max for toilets before those valves have problems?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Your condensation in the oil could possibly from running too cold and not getting the oil hot enough to evaporate the moisture in the motor. Some boats run very cold and never get the oil temp high enough to do this. Some boats can benefit from a thermostat style bypass system like rex marine sells. DO NOT INSTALL A THERMOSTAT INTO THE BLOCK WITHOUT A BYPASS!

A bypass thermostat system will help increase temperature in the block without interferring with water flow through the cooling system and headers.

Another thing you don't want to do is start closing the valve that supplies water to the engine from the pump. Here is the kit from rex.

http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant...&Product_Code=160100&Category_Code=thermokits



Hope this helps.
Sorry i haven't been on the site for a while, been dealing with all kinds of other crap. But I need to get this all fixed before summer :)sphss. So the thermostat posted above says it's for a chevy/olds...will it fit my ford 460?. Once again, I do not have any pressure valves for the wet headers or for the engine cooling (the valves I have are the ball/gate valves) Can someone point me in the right direction with the valves and anything else they can think of, thanks again guys.
 
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