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Discussion Starter #1
After reading the morel lifter thread, And i am running them, I went out to check a few things. I wanted to check valve lash and see if they had got loose or anything out of the ordinary. A few exhaust were on the loose side but nothing far out of adjustment. I had the headers off and ran the valves, I then put the headers back on and went to fire it off and water was coming out of 5/7 cyl. Not alot but enough to know I have a problem. I have a merlin block and the holes are blind tapped. I never retorqued the heads after the dyno becuase i was told there was no need to do this with the cometic gaskets.

So, should i tear it down, or just retorque and run it? I did notice this after the last river trip, but i had just washed the boat and blew it off as water that was trapped inbetween the header flange and head.
 

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steelcomp was here
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If you think or know you have a problem, you need to fix it. Simple as that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you think or know you have a problem, you need to fix it. Simple as that.
OK let me put it this way Scott, what do you think it is? the head gaskets not sealing properly? or ????? Im open to any and all thoughts on this. I think the head gaskets are letting alittle water by, or the merlin II blocks arnt blind tapped.
 

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OK let me put it this way Scott, what do you think it is? the head gaskets not sealing properly? or ????? Im open to any and all thoughts on this. I think the head gaskets are letting alittle water by, or the merlin II blocks arnt blind tapped.
I might be wrong but I dont think they are blind.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I might be wrong but I dont think they are blind.
Merlin II Blocks (Big Block Chevy)

Tehcnical Specifications
Material:High density cast iron
Deck Height:9.800" (standard Chevy) or 10.200" (tall)
Deck thickness:.600"minimum
Cam bearings:Standard Chevrolet
Main bearings:Standard Chevrolet
Camshaft location:Stock
Lifter bores:Indexed (stock .8437" bore)
Bore:4.240 (hone to 4.250") or 4.490" (hone to 4.50")
Maximum recommended bore:4.625"
Cylinder wall thickness:(.250" @ 4.600"bore)
Water jackets:Expanded for better cooling
Lubrication:priority main oiling system
Filtration:Integral mount for spin-on filter
Oil pan rails:Solid (stock width) can be clearanced for strokers
Crank clearance:4.500" stroke crank w/o clearancing, 4.750" with clearancing
Main caps:Nodular iron 4-bolt (1/2") with dowels
Fuel pump:OEM mount
Starter:OEM mount
Motor mounts:Dual (front & side)
Cylinder head holes:Blind tapped to prevent leaks
Weight:Approximately 270 lbs.
Manufacturer:WorldProducts

It has to be the head gaskets... I will know tomorrow when they come off.

Can I reuse the cometis even if they were leaking and not retorqued?
 

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If you think or know you have a problem, you need to fix it. Simple as that.
But if you dont know what avenue to travel first Scott, and come on a tech forum and ask a perfectly legit question, how "should" one respond to the questioning???? My guess is, not the way you did!
I wish i could give you an answer Tim, but i know well enough, to leave well enough alone!
Sorry!
Todd
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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futs, back off the rockers on those cylinders, block off your outgoin water line from the motor, pull the ingoin water line lose and pressureize it with air, see if the air leaks into those cylinders;) if it's leaking water at/or below 30psi, 30psi of air will find the leak just as easy, the air will rush outta the plug hole if you do in fact have a headgasket leak from the coolant passage area.
 

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Spiral out
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After reading the morel lifter thread, And i am running them, I went out to check a few things. I wanted to check valve lash and see if they had got loose or anything out of the ordinary. A few exhaust were on the loose side but nothing far out of adjustment. I had the headers off and ran the valves, I then put the headers back on and went to fire it off and water was coming out of 5/7 cyl. Not alot but enough to know I have a problem. I have a merlin block and the holes are blind tapped. I never retorqued the heads after the dyno becuase i was told there was no need to do this with the cometic gaskets.

So, should i tear it down, or just retorque and run it? I did notice this after the last river trip, but i had just washed the boat and blew it off as water that was trapped inbetween the header flange and head.
Tim,

Take a look at all of the tops of the pistons to see what kind of carbon (partially burned fuel) traces are on the tops.

If they are clean (or cleaner) on the #5+7 pistons....then there is a water leak into the cylinders (the exh ports would be clean too).

When you say coming out of the cylinders 5/7....with the headers off?.....maybe it is fuel.

I'd retorque it to be sure that they are still as tight as they are supposed to be.
 

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Resident Ford Nut
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futs, back off the rockers on those cylinders, block off your outgoin water line from the motor, pull the ingoin water line lose and pressureize it with air, see if the air leaks into those cylinders;) if it's leaking water at/or below 30psi, 30psi of air will find the leak just as easy, the air will rush outta the plug hole if you do in fact have a headgasket leak from the coolant passage area.
Now that makes a lot of since coming from a guy from Oklahoma. :p I did the same thing to find a pin-hole leak in a cylinder many yrs ago.

Sleeper CP :D
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
futs, back off the rockers on those cylinders, block off your outgoin water line from the motor, pull the ingoin water line lose and pressureize it with air, see if the air leaks into those cylinders;) if it's leaking water at/or below 30psi, 30psi of air will find the leak just as easy, the air will rush outta the plug hole if you do in fact have a headgasket leak from the coolant passage area.
I could do the same with my leak down tester,just doing it the oposite way. Im still pulling the heads, Its been 2 weeks since the last trip and it was sitting in the cylinder for that long. There are a few other things i am going to check.

Its funny though, I was spinning the engine over when i was doing the valves, you would think the water would of came out then and not when the headers were put back on. The engine never acted funny like it was hydraulicing or anything.
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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I could do the same with my leak down tester,just doing it the oposite way. Im still pulling the heads, Its been 2 weeks since the last trip and it was sitting in the cylinder for that long. There are a few other things i am going to check.

Its funny though, I was spinning the engine over when i was doing the valves, you would think the water would of came out then and not when the headers were put back on. The engine never acted funny like it was hydraulicing or anything.
sure you could but you'd have air passing the rings and making noise as well.


cp, watch you talking bout willis?:)sphss i do turn wrenches for a living;) i know a few tricks:D
 

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Im guessing head gasket. I had a crack in one of my cylinder heads-was leaking water into the #1 exhaust port. Took me a few minutes to notice it-I was on it hard before that...no hydraulics, or rather nothing was wounded... I know water doesn't compress, but air does so you have some room for error...

if its going to be a few days before the heads come off, spray some rust inhibitor in the bore.
 

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steelcomp was here
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OK let me put it this way Scott, what do you think it is? the head gaskets not sealing properly? or ????? Im open to any and all thoughts on this. I think the head gaskets are letting alittle water by, or the merlin II blocks arnt blind tapped.
Sorry...I didn't mean for that to sound like it did after I read it...point was that you know you have a problem. Just retorquing is sort of like throwing a dart at the dart board, hoping for a bullseye. You need to find the source of the water (the problem you know you have) and putting it simply, fix it. It could be many different things that would be almost impossible to diagnose with what you wrote, but my point not well made was not to just re-torque. I will say that my first thought with Cometics is that they are very surface-finish sensitive. I'm not sure why they'd all of a sudden start leaking, though.
 

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steelcomp was here
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I could do the same with my leak down tester,just doing it the oposite way. Im still pulling the heads, Its been 2 weeks since the last trip and it was sitting in the cylinder for that long. There are a few other things i am going to check.

Its funny though, I was spinning the engine over when i was doing the valves, you would think the water would of came out then and not when the headers were put back on. The engine never acted funny like it was hydraulicing or anything.
I'm guessing the water's not under pressure when you're just spinning the engine over, but it is when it's running. What's your water source when running? Garden hose? Is it regulated?
Is this a jet?
 

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steelcomp was here
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But if you dont know what avenue to travel first Scott, and come on a tech forum and ask a perfectly legit question, how "should" one respond to the questioning???? My guess is, not the way you did!
I wish i could give you an answer Tim, but i know well enough, to leave well enough alone!
Sorry!
Todd
Thanks for pointing that out Todd.:)devil
 

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garden hose shouldn't be getting water in your motor i don't care if you have 75psi water supply (which i doubt) you wouldn't get that much in the block anyway unless your bybass or outlets were blocked . might as well check the torque before pulling them , if they backed off and reseal you might get away with one .
 

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Before tearing down on a blind geuss. Compression test then a leak down test. Might aswell know what to fix before trying to fix it. M
 

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Boat Nut
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Did you put the hose on it when you attempted to run it? Strange you did not see any thing with the exhaust off, as the valves are below the port. If you had the hose on, I could see it getting past the header T valve. Better to error on the side of caution, good luck.
 
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