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trying get prop off my eliminator project, cannot get prop off, have a small puller on it and tried some heat with a small propane torch(all I have) and air chisel with hammer tip. Its a stainless prop, thanks for any help..Rob
 

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Italian-Rage
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trying get prop off my eliminator project, cannot get prop off, have a small puller on it and tried some heat with a small propane torch(all I have) and air chisel with hammer tip. Its a stainless prop, thanks for any help..Rob
When you put it back on I would use some anti-siez might be misspelled. It helps the next time you take it off.
 

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Try spraying some PB Blaster on the shaft/prop and let it soak a while. Also, follow the above and get a real prop puller. You put the puller on the prop, torque it down, then wack the nut on the end of the puller. The shock is what breaks the prop loose. Be sure to leave the prop shaft nut on the end of the shaft, when the prop comes loose sometimes there is quite a bit of force.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
not much room between the end of the shaft and rudder, makes hitting from there about impossible
 

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Any locking taper should be very clean and dry when re-assembled, no oil, no solvent residue, no anti-seize. Before you re-assemble get some high-spot bluing ( also called Prussian blue or machinist bluing) , not lay-out bluing, to check the fit of the prop to the shaft. If is not making contact on the majority of the shaft-prop fit. get some lapping compound and work the prop by hand to the shaft. Do not use diamond lapping compound. This will get the prop more true with the shaft, make a better fit and keep your prop off the bottom of the lake. If the prop can't lock onto the shaft it will drive off the key and that will eventually cause a real mess.
 

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Any locking taper should be very clean and dry when re-assembled, no oil, no solvent residue, no anti-seize. Before you re-assemble get some high-spot bluing ( also called Prussian blue or machinist bluing) , not lay-out bluing, to check the fit of the prop to the shaft. If is not making contact on the majority of the shaft-prop fit. get some lapping compound and work the prop by hand to the shaft. Do not use diamond lapping compound. This will get the prop more true with the shaft, make a better fit and keep your prop off the bottom of the lake. If the prop can't lock onto the shaft it will drive off the key and that will eventually cause a real mess.
There may be some disagreement about the use of anti-seize.
I'd say most of us have always been told to use it. Maybe it depends on the type of material the prop is made of.
 

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Italian-Rage
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Any locking taper should be very clean and dry when re-assembled, no oil, no solvent residue, no anti-seize. Before you re-assemble get some high-spot bluing ( also called Prussian blue or machinist bluing) , not lay-out bluing, to check the fit of the prop to the shaft. If is not making contact on the majority of the shaft-prop fit. get some lapping compound and work the prop by hand to the shaft. Do not use diamond lapping compound. This will get the prop more true with the shaft, make a better fit and keep your prop off the bottom of the lake. If the prop can't lock onto the shaft it will drive off the key and that will eventually cause a real mess.
For my 20yrs of changing props its worked. well for me, but that's just me
 

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Muffler City
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Stuck prop..

For my 20yrs of changing props its worked. well for me, but that's just me
Mix up a little Acetone and trans fluid.. soak it good, and do it again.. let it sit for a day.. The Acetone carries the trans fluid into the fit, and then evaporates.. leaving the trans fluid.. if that don't do it.. try some Kroil..
As a Journeyman Millwright who works with tapered fits.. I agree with the previous poster.. dry and clean with no lubricants on assembly.. bluing to check the fit to 80% contact minimum.. then lock her down..
 

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+1 trans fluid and acetone is the best penetrating oil !
GD

Mix up a little Acetone and trans fluid.. soak it good, and do it again.. let it sit for a day.. The Acetone carries the trans fluid into the fit, and then evaporates.. leaving the trans fluid.. if that don't do it.. try some Kroil..
As a Journeyman Millwright who works with tapered fits.. I agree with the previous poster.. dry and clean with no lubricants on assembly.. bluing to check the fit to 80% contact minimum.. then lock her down..
 

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Might need more heat. I had a stuck one one a boat i bought, i parked a propane torch on it for half hour and used a chunk of aluminum round stock like a punch and it came loose with a couple dozen half hard wacks with a 4lb hammer.
 

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Some great advice given previously. I'm sure the recommendation of a lapped in, dry fit on tapered parts works perfect. However, we're talking about a MARINE application here. A STEEL prop on a Monel shaft is going to form rust inside the taper every time the boat is pulled out of the water.
NOT using anti-seize is more than likely why this prop is stuck on this guys propshaft. Unless you plan on pulling your prop after every run (a viable option), clean the steel mating surfaces, including the key stock and keyway and PUT ANTI-SEIZE ON IT! This has worked for me for the past near 50 yrs of owning boats. Jocko
 

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Might need more heat. I had a stuck one one a boat i bought, i parked a propane torch on it for half hour and used a chunk of aluminum round stock like a punch and it came loose with a couple dozen half hard wacks with a 4lb hammer.
Propane torch for 1/2 hour ?

Aren't you the same guy that burned up the boat & garage ? :)Unsure
 

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I use a piece of double extra heavy wall steel pipe, 1.900 OD X 1.070 ID X 10" long , as a slide hammer and its never failed. Its a little trouble though as you have to remove the shaft and prop from the boat. Better than using too much heat on the prop though.
 

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Am I missing something? Sometimes I do not read so well, but no one mentioned using a correct puller with a an Impact Wrench. I have pulled steel props off shafts that have been on 20 years and they always just POP right off. Yes/No?
 

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Always worked for me. On my old Spectra I tightened up the prop puller, but it did not release. Hit the bolt on the prop puller with a single jack and the prop came loose.
I'd soak it down with wd40 or liquid wrench, let it sit over night. If you do this, don't hit it with a torch. Bad things will happen. Very bad things.

Am I missing something? Sometimes I do not read so well, but no one mentioned using a correct puller with a an Impact Wrench. I have pulled steel props off shafts that have been on 20 years and they always just POP right off. Yes/No?
 
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