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When I pulled the Olds out of my sleekcraft I discovered an fuel/water separator hiding down in the bilge area. It has been disconnected. I wanted to get your guys opinions. Should I clean it out and get a new filter and use it or should I trash it? If I do decide to run it will my engine mounted fuel pump drive it or do I need an electric pump? Thanks.
 

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it should work just fine, only issues would be after sitting you will need a good battery tosuck up the fuel or prime it so it starts
 

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it should work just fine, only issues would be after sitting you will need a good battery tosuck up the fuel or prime it so it starts
Thankfully someone installed a dual battery set up! :) Whoever owned this boat before the idiot that I bought I from set it up correctly. The guy I bought it from ran it with the water valve open all the way then couldn't figure out why he was getting water in the oil.
 

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I use a separator on mine with a mechanical fuel pump. When you install the filter, make sure you add a little fuel into the canister so it'll prime the system faster.
 

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Not why....

Thankfully someone installed a dual battery set up! :) Whoever owned this boat before the idiot that I bought I from set it up correctly. The guy I bought it from ran it with the water valve open all the way then couldn't figure out why he was getting water in the oil.
That is the correct way to run it... The water in the oil came from a gasket failure, (most likely), and closing the valve down to regulate the water flow will likely cause the same problem when the heads crack.... If you feel there is too much water pressure increase the exit flow, (additional dumps).... In 35 + years I've never ran a jet without the gate valve off the jet WIDE OPEN, and I've never had any water in the oil issues. That applies to BBC and BBO engines in at least a dozen different boats that I owned, and at least another dozen or so I've built/rigged for other owners....
Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #6
\ In 35 + years I've never ran a jet without the gate valve off the jet WIDE OPEN, and I've never had any water in the oil issues. That applies to BBC and BBO engines in at least a dozen different boats that I owned, and at least another dozen or so I've built/rigged for other owners....
Ray
I hope you dont mean wide open valve running straight to the engine without a pressure regulator. My boat doesnt have any pressure regulators.
 

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Exactly

I hope you dont mean wide open valve running straight to the engine without a pressure regulator. My boat doesnt have any pressure regulators.
That is exactly what I mean.... I've never used a pressure regulator, or ANY type of restriction coming from the pump unless I'm running the boat on the trailer and need the garden hose pressure going into the engine.... For that operation I will close the gate valve down almost all the way, but still allow some water to enter the pump.... If you restrict the "IN" side of the water flow to the engine you MAY create steam pockets in the cavities of the block and heads, and they WILL crack if, and when, the cold water finally pushes the steam out and hits those very hot spots... Like I said, if you're worried about too much pressure add extra dumps from the engine straight overboard.... Use quality gaskets on the heads and intake, quality head fasteners properly torqued, add silicone sealer to the critical areas around water passages from the block to the heads, and from the heads to the intake.
Ray
 

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I hope you dont mean wide open valve running straight to the engine without a pressure regulator. My boat doesnt have any pressure regulators.
Personally not a fan of water seperators at all , run the smallest most efficiant inline filter(s) you can , if you fuel sources (tanks ,line etc) are clean, your fuel available supply is fresh and uncontaminated and your caps and vents are properly installed you should never have a water or signifcant moisture in your fuel anyway , re the ongoing water ball gate valve question , many of these boats were rigged without one (at the jet supply line) and ran for years without problems , the best function of a inlet ball or gate valve IMO is a "failsafe " shutoff in the event you blow off a line to keep your craft from sinking, we do advocate, install and run water regulators, as well as a saftey mechanism


 

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I hope you dont mean wide open valve running straight to the engine without a pressure regulator. My boat doesnt have any pressure regulators.
Rember this is a forum and your going to get different opinions and experiance over the years. I personally haven't ran a regulator on any of my boats over the years, but have always had a gate valve at the pump to reduce the water pressure going into the engine.
 

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Rember this is a forum and your going to get different opinions and experiance over the years. I personally haven't ran a regulator on any of my boats over the years, but have always had a gate valve at the pump to reduce the water pressure going into the engine.
Pressure is pressure and flow is flow, the only way to reduce pressure is with a regulator. If you closed the gate valve and drilled a small hole in the gate you would still deliver the same pressure, with a reduced flow.
 

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Pressure is pressure and flow is flow, the only way to reduce pressure is with a regulator. If you closed the gate valve and drilled a small hole in the gate you would still deliver the same pressure, with a reduced flow.
Not going to get into a debate and not a hydrodynimics expert, but have always been able to find the right adjustment with a gate valve for the engine temp at idle and high RPM. Pressure regulator off a T from the main line is a good option.
 

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Not going to get into a debate and not a hydrodynimics expert, but have always been able to find the right adjustment with a gate valve for the engine temp at idle and high RPM. Pressure regulator off a T from the main line is a good option.
I have never used a reg. either, I open my gate valve 3 turns for flow. It works good too.
 

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When I pulled the Olds out of my sleekcraft I discovered an fuel/water separator hiding down in the bilge area. It has been disconnected. I wanted to get your guys opinions. Should I clean it out and get a new filter and use it or should I trash it? If I do decide to run it will my engine mounted fuel pump drive it or do I need an electric pump? Thanks.
Stock (aftermarket) mechanical pump and basic 3/8 fuel filter is fine as long as the tanks are clean.
 

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That is the correct way to run it... The water in the oil came from a gasket failure, (most likely), and closing the valve down to regulate the water flow will likely cause the same problem when the heads crack.... If you feel there is too much water pressure increase the exit flow, (additional dumps).... In 35 + years I've never ran a jet without the gate valve off the jet WIDE OPEN, and I've never had any water in the oil issues. That applies to BBC and BBO engines in at least a dozen different boats that I owned, and at least another dozen or so I've built/rigged for other owners....
Ray
Pressure is pressure and flow is flow, the only way to reduce pressure is with a regulator. If you closed the gate valve and drilled a small hole in the gate you would still deliver the same pressure, with a reduced flow.

Not to argue with you SBS933, but the way Ray is explaining is the way I and many others plumb the cooling system and use multiple exits to reduce pressure. ON my boat I have the standard -8 line coming in from the pump that breaks into multiple exits, 2) -10 and 1) -8. My boat at 5000 rpm is 12psi measured at the inlet in the front of the motor (water pump inlet ports).
 

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Had an olds and was set at about 180-200 with gate...was fine till the water gate was opened all the way by someone at the sandbar and only took one trip back from the sandbar to crack a head. I have a ford now with mech pump and water/fuel sep and noticed more stable pressure going from 1/4 npt/ 3/8 line to 3/8 npt 1/2 line sep to pump then 3/8 line to carb. I run the gate on the ford all the way open all the time....
 

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Not to argue with you SBS933, but the way Ray is explaining is the way I and many others plumb the cooling system and use multiple exits to reduce pressure. ON my boat I have the standard -8 line coming in from the pump that breaks into multiple exits, 2) -10 and 1) -8. My boat at 5000 rpm is 12psi measured at the inlet in the front of the motor (water pump inlet ports).
Gotcha Iceman, I'm plummed from the pump and split off to the block and out the headers. Just a basic set-up
 
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