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Discussion Starter #1
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I have a fuel log and Barry Grant fuel pressure regulator in the picture. This just does not look like it is plumed right. Should'nt the regulator be at the front of the fuel log on the inlet end? I just do not understand how the regulator would work on the back end of the log. Also it had a fitting for a return line but I have no provition to retun fuel to the tang so I pluged that hole. is this ok or is there another way to retun the fuel?
This is exactly how it was set up when I baught the whole intake and carb package. I looked it up and I belive it is a barry Grant diaphran bypass regulator prt#171021 or #171020/w idle bleed screw. Do not think it has a bleed screw. Can some one please tell me it it works in this configureation or do I need to swap it around.....H
 

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Living in a cage of fear
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It will only work that way with the return line functioning.
The reg bypass allows the log to be PSI regulated, with excess psi/ fuel being returned to the tank.
Personally, I would use it as it is and unplug that return and figure out how to get it back in the tank.:)bulb
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Would the return line have to be the same size as the inlet line feeding the log or could it de smaller?
 

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LAID IN MEXICO
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return

i run the same set up on my blown 540. return line T's into the fuel line at the inlet of the fuel filter, then on to the pump. it has been working perfect for me.
 

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AKA Blownjet 468
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I plan on running my bypass back into the inlet side also, would you think a check-valve is necessary? I have a couple detroit diesel 3/8 high flow

check valves in my box, what do you think?
 

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It was built as a fuel return system, you shut it off and changed the whole idea of a fuel return system to a deadhead system. the return system is the best to have and end your fuel system problems. There is a great article in Century performance web page if you don't understand it.
 

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The plug in the regulator will cause the pump to put full pressure to the carbs! I just use a AN tee before the pump (inlet side) and ran a line from the regulator to the tee! Worked well! It is way better than a deadhead system IMO!
 

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It was built as a fuel return system, you shut it off and changed the whole idea of a fuel return system to a deadhead system. the return system is the best to have and end your fuel system problems. There is a great article in Century performance web page if you don't understand it.
Never tried a bypass system, and not sure what defines the requirement for such a setup (but would like to!). I read the article (very good as you promised!), and have some observations and questions...

The writer of the Century performance web page seems to be addressing drag race systems with electric fuel pumps. In addition, the schematics appear to show the bypass ocurring before the carbs. The bypasses (I have seen) on boats occur at the extreme end of the fuel log.

Do the same points made in that article apply to mechanical pumps? And, how do the differences in the plumbing come into play?
 

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I would like to learn more about this. Can you provide a link to that article?
Here you go Bill. This is pretty much every concievable fuel pump/carb plumbing diagram you will ever need. The 3rd diagram on the first page is pretty much like the OP's except the pump.
LINK: BG plumbing diagram 85

On this page the 3rd one is similar as well, again, except for the pump.

LINK: BG plumbing diagram 86

NOTE: Barry Grants stuff was pretty decent towards the end, and any of the problems it did have could be remedied easy enough. His pure shit customer service, his opinion that his cutstomers were almost too stupid to be working on their stuff, and his horrible business sense is what did the company in. He never built ANYTHING that was perfect out of the box, all you had to do was ask him.
But this site is pretty spot on in the tech department, and there is alot of good info on here. If there is any thing you wish to save, download it now because this site won't be up forever. The man knew his carbs and fuel systems, he just didn't now how to run a business.



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Discussion Starter #16
i run the same set up on my blown 540. return line T's into the fuel line at the inlet of the fuel filter, then on to the pump. it has been working perfect for me.
This is exactly what I did. I ran a -8 line from the return port on the regulator and fitted a "T" in the line on the inlet side of the fuel filter. while I was at it since I had the fuel system all apart looking for air leaks, i fitted in a shut off valve for each tank. The T for the return line was placed between the two valves so that it would allways feed to the filter.....H
 

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This is exactly what I did. I ran a -8 line from the return port on the regulator and fitted a "T" in the line on the inlet side of the fuel filter. while I was at it since I had the fuel system all apart looking for air leaks, i fitted in a shut off valve for each tank. The T for the return line was placed between the two valves so that it would allways feed to the filter.....H
That should do it. Out of curiosity, what pump did you end up getting. You may not need a regulater at all.



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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
That should do it. Out of curiosity, what pump did you end up getting. You may not need a regulater at all.
I went with an Edlebrock Victor series race pump, 130gph and it said that a regulator was required. I would have probobly ordered a Clay Smith pump But I was impatient and wanted to get the motor fired and running on its own and the edelbrock is what my local speed shop had on hand that fit my bill.I am not so sure now that it was the pump that was bad but I will explain in the other thread as not to confuse topics.....Hal
 

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Return is the only way to fly!
This is correct. You want to feed before you return. Barry Brant uses the 2 styles (please note 2 styles ) of regulators one constant feed and on with bypass. If you use a constant the return goes before the distribution and the bypass goes after the distribution. Also those are the holley brand, just chrome for B.G. He doesn't build his own it's just a buy out. For more info you can go to the Holley web site and get a flow diagram for both designs. M
 

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Lets compare Barry's bypasses and regulators.

Barry Grant 4 port regulator. Inlet port bottom and side. Outlet ports 90* to the inlet. 100% machined billet with 1/8" pressure port tapped at a angle to clear the side inlet if using a gauge. Red anondized, not chromed


Holley 4 port, one inlet port, bottom only. 4 outlet ports are machined on roughly a 30* angle to the main body. 1/8" pressure with or with out gauge, machined 90*



Barry Grant 2 port regulator. 100% machined billet, with round main body. 1/8" pressure port. Red anodized, not chromed


Holley 2 port, as cast squarish body, no 1/8 pressure port, chrome plated.



Barry Grant diaphram bypass. 100% machined billet with round body. 1/8" pressure port, Red anodized, not chrome.


Holley diaphram bypass. As cast squarish body, no 1/8" pressure port, chrome plated



Barry and Holley were mortal enemies. Holley wanted to sue Barry over the Demon, but he had covered his bases pretty good. Barry blew the door off the hinges so everybody in town could make Holley clones. QFT, Pro Systems, Proform, just to name a few. There was a time when Holley wouldn't sell to dealers that carried BG. Holley finally had to give up on that tactic. They were losing too many sales. Not a chance in hell Holley was selling Barry so much as a gasket.

Barry had no need of ANYBODY to make ANYTHING for him. He he more than had the means to make anything he needed, except the motors for his electric pumps, which he got from Essex.



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