Joined
·
594 Posts
Anyone here have their garage floors done. Which brand did you use? Easy? hard? any experiences... So many brands out there...Looking to do mine myself.
Garage epoxy flooring
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Joined
·
769 Posts
Here are a few pics of my garage. I choose to use this kit because it came with everything I needed (brushes, rollers, gloves etc..) The only thing I had to buy was the muradic acid. The acid wash was also not used to "etch" the concrete rather just lower the ph in the concrete.
![]()
I went the extra step and filled in the contraction joints, these are not expansion joints and can be filled. I used a professional construction grade silicon to hold a half inch foam backing rod and then covered with self leveling Ardex that hardens to 1500 lbs per sq inch.
![]()
I choose not to do any colored flakes, however they are available. The flakes can be custom ordered to match your personal color scheme.
![]()
I let the floor cure about 2-3 days.
![]()
My neighbor used the kit from Home Depot and is getting a yellowish tint to the floor that is exposed to alot of sunlight after only 8mo's.
I went the extra step and filled in the contraction joints, these are not expansion joints and can be filled. I used a professional construction grade silicon to hold a half inch foam backing rod and then covered with self leveling Ardex that hardens to 1500 lbs per sq inch.
I choose not to do any colored flakes, however they are available. The flakes can be custom ordered to match your personal color scheme.
I let the floor cure about 2-3 days.
My neighbor used the kit from Home Depot and is getting a yellowish tint to the floor that is exposed to alot of sunlight after only 8mo's.
I used the Home Depot stuff on my garage in Canada. So not alot of sunlight hits it. You MUST use a clear over the top color coat of dirt will stick to it a bit more. Looks great two years later even after snow and rocks from tires have ground it a bit. Very durable. U Coat It seems to be the best semi pro stuff. prep is everything.
Joined
·
7,834 Posts
A buddy of mine did his garage with the U-COAT stuff from Home Depot. Originally I thought it wouldnt last but he did it about 4 years ago and still looks good.
Joined
·
2,426 Posts
I used the stuff from lowes, like 80 bucks for the kit.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGBrand.a...vanced&OVADID=28389622522&OVKWID=134013536022
It does fade where the sun hits it, out side of the door. Hey it's AZ every thing fades.
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGBrand.a...vanced&OVADID=28389622522&OVKWID=134013536022
It does fade where the sun hits it, out side of the door. Hey it's AZ every thing fades.
Joined
·
1,203 Posts
i have the stuff from home depot, must use the two part the one part stuff comes off really easy, i have used the two part in tan and grey. the tan stuff i used on our carport in hawaii one block from the ocean and its still fine four years later...maybe since its tan it doesnt turn yellow, but i havent seen the grey turn yellow either..
here is a link http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100036163
oil and everything wipes right off, and one box seems to cover about half a garage with a bit of extra, i would guess it covers about a 10x25 area, and before i didnt use the flakes but i did this time and it helps the floor to not be slippery, but if you want solid you can also add some silica sand in for texture...
here is a link http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100036163
oil and everything wipes right off, and one box seems to cover about half a garage with a bit of extra, i would guess it covers about a 10x25 area, and before i didnt use the flakes but i did this time and it helps the floor to not be slippery, but if you want solid you can also add some silica sand in for texture...
Joined
·
256 Posts
I have used the "u-coat system" and the rust-o-leum system from home depot. The ucoat peeled in about 3 yrs, yes it was prepped and it was brand new. The rust oleum has lasted 8 yrs with no peels and I have welded directly on it. The home depot stuff is 1/4 the price also.
Joined
·
9 Posts
I used the rustoleum kit, and it was still there looking pretty good after about 4 years when I moved from the old house. I used the Behr at the new house this past spring becuase of the color selection available. I followed everything...cleaning, etching, painted it,and even put a clear coat on... It's terrible, comes up with duct tape.
Here is a few more options
http://www.griotsgarage.com/category/in+your+garage/garage+flooring.do
Here is a few more options
http://www.griotsgarage.com/category/in+your+garage/garage+flooring.do
Joined
·
1,369 Posts
I would have a pro do it. I did mine and it came out looking great but after time it's gotten pretty beat up.. Hot tire pickup it common with these kits even after solid prep work. I would have a pro come out and do it, stain or epoxy.. just my .02
Joined
·
805 Posts
Had a pro do mine, added the speckle. Hot tires no problem, but when I park a car after a dirty rain I have to wash the floor to prevent staining (but thats only once a year)...
Joined
·
233 Posts
Joined
·
1,203 Posts
fyi the single part dyi kits will peel easy, and the behr kits really suck, but with the two part kits mentioned above, it has never pulled up, even when its 100+ here
Joined
·
502 Posts
Go to a local ICI Dulux store and ask about Devthane379, it's the same stuff that Boeing & Nasa use on their floor coatings. Pretty wicked stuff! Works GREAT!!!
Joined
·
594 Posts
Looks b-otchin!!!! does the ucoatit cost a lot more than the rustoleum. seems the rustoleum has had some problems from what ive readHere are a few pics of my garage. I choose to use this kit because it came with everything I needed (brushes, rollers, gloves etc..) The only thing I had to buy was the muradic acid. The acid wash was also not used to "etch" the concrete rather just lower the ph in the concrete.
![]()
I went the extra step and filled in the contraction joints, these are not expansion joints and can be filled. I used a professional construction grade silicon to hold a half inch foam backing rod and then covered with self leveling Ardex that hardens to 1500 lbs per sq inch.
![]()
I choose not to do any colored flakes, however they are available. The flakes can be custom ordered to match your personal color scheme.
![]()
I let the floor cure about 2-3 days.
![]()
My neighbor used the kit from Home Depot and is getting a yellowish tint to the floor that is exposed to alot of sunlight after only 8mo's.
Joined
·
2,046 Posts
I have used the Rustoleom Pruduct from Home Depot and it was worked out great in my Havasu RV garage.
It is easy to roll on!
My advice is to have one person help cutting in the edges and the cracks while you roll.
I have had my painted for a little over two years and it still looks new. I have never had any so called hot tire marks so far and I have put my boat in the garage on 120 degree days with hot hot hot tires.
It is easy to roll on!
My advice is to have one person help cutting in the edges and the cracks while you roll.
I have had my painted for a little over two years and it still looks new. I have never had any so called hot tire marks so far and I have put my boat in the garage on 120 degree days with hot hot hot tires.
Joined
·
594 Posts
are these epoxies strong enough that jackstands wont leave marks on them when used? just thought of this as i like to work on my cars. will this keep me from doing this?
Joined
·
4,028 Posts
Like with most things, you get what you pay for.
Lots of friends with the Rustoleum HomeDepot/Lowes kit, have seen the yellowing and some peeling. Most of it is the prep. But, the best looking / strongest is any of the materials that contain 100% solids. I don't know the % of UCoat, but it is good for semi-pro.
I have a neighbor that did his twice, with two different kits, and ended up paying to have it removed and put down professionally. Keep doing your homework and asking around. You'll find what will work for you.
Lots of friends with the Rustoleum HomeDepot/Lowes kit, have seen the yellowing and some peeling. Most of it is the prep. But, the best looking / strongest is any of the materials that contain 100% solids. I don't know the % of UCoat, but it is good for semi-pro.
I have a neighbor that did his twice, with two different kits, and ended up paying to have it removed and put down professionally. Keep doing your homework and asking around. You'll find what will work for you.
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
