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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, While crawing under the bow of my potato chip POS the other day to retrieve some vests, I noticed that the bulkhead glass was cracking and broken. One day of grinding and a bunch of glasswork...problem solved...for now.

I then began inspecting the boat a bit more and noticed plenty of new cracks popping in my new paint after only 2 weekends of use. I've got to stiffen this thing up somehow...especially in the gunnels.

I'm concerned though if I make some plywood gussets to glass into the gunnels...probably 2 or 3 in each side, that the boat will simply break as it wants to flex but won't be able to. Aside from flaring out the glass work 12" or so on each side of the support and leaving 1/4" or so of space between the support and the hull...is there a better way to do it?

Or should I just go buy the SWTD that I found I sink this thing.

(Sorry, I'm in a bad mood today....all itchy and my back hurts from yesterday's "fun with fiberglass")
 

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when you put the new supports in did you leave a gap around the entire piece of wood so that only the fiberglass mat comes in contact with the boat. Other wise I believe that the inability for the wood to flex.
 

· I'm No Expert
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Or should I just go buy the SWTD that I found I sink this thing.
Where'd you find this? :D

When i did my gunnel supports (only 1 on each side) i left a 1/2 or so of space all the way around, the wood cant be touching the hull at all. Been 2 years and no cracks in that area. Now i need to deal with my f'ing bulk head :|err
 

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First off what type of boat is it you have been working on ? Now if the cracks were there before paint and they were not fixed properly it will show more as you use it. Some cases are 100% the oposite, I mean if the boat is flexable it won't crack as easy. If you stiffen certain parts it will cause more cracking in new areas.
Now if you look at the way a circle boat is built, it would really mess you up. Gunnel supports frount to rear fully glassed in. Most have ribbs, they are glassed in on all four sides. Now for the bulkheads and kick board folks, keep them flexable or they will crack. My Sanger Custom Sprint Jet has 2 ribs in the bow with a bulkhead panel the attaches to the first rib. With out the bulkhead in I see a bit of flex in the bow. But when it is in it stiffens the bow up quite a bit. It also has two chrome rods that attach to the frount on the boxed keel and the gunnel.
 

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Lbhsbz; I had a thread on this very subject,unfortunately I think it was on Hotboat.
Any way what I was told from the glass guys like OldRigger and such was that the proper theng to do was to have one gunnel suporst on each side ,about 5' up from the transom. They said when tabing in the support to shim the wood away from the hull about 1/4".
The important thing is, under the gunnel, let the support only tought the wood behind the glass, and do not let the fiberglass rest on the suport.
At the bottom where the support meets the floor. leave a 1/4" gapas well.
I was told to only use one , so I am not sure what it would hurt to use two per side?
Here are a couple of pics of what I did.




After testing ,I had to trim 1/4" off the bottom.



I hear You on the cracks in the paint. My worst fear is that the first time out the paint is going to crack. especially the deck, becouse that is what brought on this whole project.....Hal
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What kind of boat am I working on? Dunno. Looks like a hondo V-drive but its got a pod, a 2 inch runner bottom/flat keel thing and 2 little sponsons on each side....sorta a tunnel/runnerbottom hybrid thing I guess. The problem is right where I sit on the gunnels to jump in the boat...right next to the seats. If I push on it...it'll flex about an inch or 2 with about 75 lbs sitting on it. The boat is a super light layup...I'd bet not more than 300 lbs or so.

I'm not telling where I found the SWTD until I go look at it. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Lbhsbz; I had a thread on this very subject,unfortunately I think it was on Hotboat.
Any way what I was told from the glass guys like OldRigger and such was that the proper theng to do was to have one gunnel suporst on each side ,about 5' up from the transom. They said when tabing in the support to shim the wood away from the hull about 1/4".
The important thing is, under the gunnel, let the support only tought the wood behind the glass, and do not let the fiberglass rest on the suport.
At the bottom where the support meets the floor. leave a 1/4" gapas well.
I was told to only use one , so I am not sure what it would hurt to use two per side?
Here are a couple of pics of what I did.




After testing ,I had to trim 1/4" off the bottom.



I hear You on the cracks in the paint. My worst fear is that the first time out the paint is going to crack. especially the deck, becouse that is what brought on this whole project.....Hal

that's kinda what I had in mind...but I don't know if the hull is thick enough to deal with that. I guess there's only one way to find out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think i see it, is it yellow? You got dibs.
Yep..that's the one. Surprised Mouzer hasn't scooped it up yet. I called yesterday as soon as it popped up and told him I'd take it...the guy was supposedly out of town, said he'd be back today. I called this morning and he said someone came over last night and may have worked something out with his neighbor, so we'll see...I'm expecting a call back in the next hour.
 

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Yep..that's the one. Surprised Mouzer hasn't scooped it up yet. I called yesterday as soon as it popped up and told him I'd take it...the guy was supposedly out of town, said he'd be back today. I called this morning and he said someone came over last night and may have worked something out with his neighbor, so we'll see...I'm expecting a call back in the next hour.
I'm not a big fan of the colors, would have to re-gel it if i nabbed it :) I love the look of those hulls though. I keep bouncing between a daytona, TPR, and Placecraft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've got a paint gun and about 3/4 of a gallon of white leftover, but I'm OK with the yellow.

I just want something that doesn't flex like a noodle. It scary crossing wakes in this thing at 5 MPH...
 

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Tim, it's a bare hull, yellow with large blue stripes on the deck and a few red lines. I wont post it to give lbhsbz a chance.

lbhsbz, even if i had a hull built it would need to be sturdy, light as possible would be nice but the thing has to last my river abuse :)devil
pm me it info. I want to know if its who i think it is.....:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Not like its hard to find...so ..

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/boa/1271737903.html

Guy said it needs a bulkhead...I'm good at those.

I'll call him again in an hour or so to see whats up.

I may just glass in a couple more layers of mat in mine...I hate upside down glass work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I'm pissed...the guy told me, when I called Saturday morning, that he wouldn't be home to show the boat until Sunday afternoon. I left him a message yesterday, then called him again this morning and he said the boat was sold and towed off on Sund. morning...

I think that's kinda ****ed up, as I had cash in hand on Saturday.

Lets see how long it takes for Mouzer (just a hunch) to throw it up for sale in the spam section.
 

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Well I'm pissed...the guy told me, when I called Saturday morning, that he wouldn't be home to show the boat until Sunday afternoon. I left him a message yesterday, then called him again this morning and he said the boat was sold and towed off on Sund. morning...

I think that's kinda ****ed up, as I had cash in hand on Saturday.

Lets see how long it takes for Mouzer (just a hunch) to throw it up for sale in the spam section.
That sucks. Well if it's mouzer who nabbed it you'll see it up soon. The last boat he napped i saw go right back up for $1000 more than it was listed the first time...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
OK, until the next cheapo real boat comes up in the classifieds....back to the issue at hand.

I have the gunnel supports cut and prepregged...and then my neighbor comes over with a beer for me and asks me what I'm doing....I always make my best decisions with a beer in hand. So as I was explaining to him how I had to stiffen the hull...he pushes on the side of it...and it moved, quite a bit. I then pulled my water dump (comes out next to the drivers seat) and the glass is about 3/16" thick. I'm thinking unless I put at least a layer or 2 of mat from say...the bow eye to the ride plate along the side of the boat before I add my supports, it'll snap in 2.

So then I had another beer, and began pondering over whether or not it would snap in 2 anyway if I just keep drinking beer instead of adding the supports.

I've decided to have a 3rd beer and see what the Jet Boat forum thinks.

option 3 is add more horsepower.

I'll be back after I get another beer.
 

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Well, if your looking for another boat, just leave that one alone and drive it. You really need to know where the stress points are in relation to the flex points ofthe hull. You put the G/S in the wrong place you will find out if it will break in two......:D You could always just add a bracket from the gunnel to the stringer to stiffen it up rather than glassing it in.
 
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