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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know a couple of the marine resellers carry these, but the price tag is a little out of my league. Can anyone tell me what type of relay would work for a electric hatch ram? relay will be mounted under the back seat and will not be in the engine compartment so i dont see the need for a sealed unit.

I appreciate any input.
 
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Bosch makes a couple different styles. A 30 should work fine, but a 50 would probably never fail on you. The 30's are usually 5 pin, 50's are 4 pin. Pretty simple to hook up and cheap.
 

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You do not NEED a relay to run the actuator. Just need a DPDT momentary contact switch, wired as shown below. What you gain by running the actuator through relay(and you would need a pair of the SPDT relays)is faster operation due to avoiding the (potential)voltage drop of the switch circuit. If you Google "linear actuator" you should be able to find some automotive-related sites that have the necessary diagram.

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Oldsquirt.

I am trying to achieve increased speed, so I feel the relays are necessary. I will try researching the linear actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did some research on another site. Looks like this would work if I wire the switched power to the relays referencing "alarm output", one switched power per relay. Any opinions?

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That diagram is it. Your existing DPDT switch can be used as a SPDT to supply the switched ground needed to activate relays. Just use one one half of the switch.
Okay, now Im confused. So if I use both sides of the switch plus the relays as wired Im in essence double polarized?

So I can run Bat+ & Bat- to the switch, with one output? Im not seeing how it hooks up to the relays then...
 

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With the relays, you only use one side of the switch. Center terminal to ground. One end terminal to each relay where they are marked "alarm lock output". When you operate the switch it will operate just the one relay that you are grounding. Operate the switch the other way and it will make the other relay operate.
 

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Somewhere I have the circuit drawn exactly as you need it. Several years ago I set up the Linear Trim diverter control(from Dave Bautista, aka SoCal Power) with this same circuit. If I can find and scan it I will post it up.
 

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Couldn't find the diagram I had so I modified yours. It is really very simple. You can utilize 1/2 of your existing DPDT switch, or change it to a SPDT. You would use the 3 terminals on one side of your existing switch. You shouldn't need to run any new wires as you already have two running to the actuator. Use those to run from the switch to the relays. This is a low current switching setup, so just find a good ground at the dash.

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Excellent, i went ahead and designed my own drawing with your descriptions above-looks like I got it right.

I assume the relays I buy should be normally open, correct?
 

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The 5-pin relay you need will have three operating contacts, two fixed and one moving. At rest the moving contact will be resting on one fixed. When the relay is activated it will move to the other. The moving contact is terminal 30 and is connected to one leg of the actuator motor. The fixed contacts are 87 and 87a. 87a and 30 are the two that are closed at rest. 87 and 30 are closed when relay operates. The circuit shows that 87a is ground and 87 is B+. This means that at rest both motor legs are grounded. Flip the switch one way and ONE relay activates, connecting it's motor leg to B+. Motor runs one way. Flip switch the other way and the other relay operates and the first one is at rest. This sends B+ to the opposite leg. Since the leg connected to the "at rest" relay is always grounded, motor now goes the opposite direction.

I used Bosch # 0 332 209 150. The relay has the internal layout shown on the side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Old Squirt,

What gauge wires? I know when people run the power through the gauge they say to run 10 gauge...Is that necessary with the relays?
 
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