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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Im got a problem with my trailer set up. the landings around here have cement blocks like railroad ties and when I pull my boat out the whole thing bounces and I think or I know its going to rip the eye right out of the hull and it takes at least 2/3 people to get it out of the water and setting right on the trailer. when I got the boat it had a stationary setup and I would have to lift the bow up to hook it in and you had to be on the ball or it would take a chunk out of the bow. not good so I fab this up but its still sucks and I cant seam to keep the boat straight and its putting alot of stress on the bow eye sooner or later its going to rip it out. I dont know if i should build a tower with a rubber v block and a crank set up or try to fab this deal again a little different or what??? also how far should the transom be forward of the end of the bunks? if its to far back will it cause hook to the bottom? this is my first jet boat so Im no pro!! I grew up on a lake and loaded tons of boat and its never been this hard. every time we load up I think it going to be a bad deal the eye is going to come out and there we sit stuck at the landing with a big hole in my boat and no way to get it off the water. What did I do wrong??? some pics would help of some setups if anyone can help THANKS
 

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Hard to tell.....

It's hard to tell from the pictures, but I would eliminate the "pin eyes" on the bar and cut a slot to allow the bow eye to go through the bar....And then take it easy as you come out of the water...As far as aligning the boat on the trailer while it's floating, fab up some tubes welded to the trailer and then insert and pin some PVC tubes to keep the boat centered, then unpin and take them out until needed again..... Be very CAREFUL using the rubber stops WITH the bow eye bar, you MAY create a fulcrum for the boat to pivot on and do some LEVERAGED damage to the bow eye.... Bow eyes in general are usually pretty tough and also USUALLY backed up on the inside of the nose..... I have seen, and used, an additional rachet strap. or chain, from the bow eye to the trailer to keep it from going too high as I pull out and the boat lays down on the bunks...Set the length of the strap/chain with the boat sitting where it normally sits so you KNOW it isn't too short to allow the nose to come up as the boat drops into place on the bunks... It's all about trial and error until you find what works best for your boat/trailer combo on the ramps you are forced to use in your area.... Oh, try to load a boat with a cross current and wind blowing when you're by yourself!!!!
Ray
 

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Floater bars are the devil unless you live in cali.


Get rid of that frustrating boat gouging POS. The ramps here are steep and water levels change alot. The floater lets massive trailer flex happen too. Nothing like concrete freeway sections and a floater bar to make your nervous, boat hoppin all over.


Plus you can load shallower and use the winch to pull/slide the boat on the last foot or so. That lets the boat touch/center on the starkes/bunks easier.

With the floater, it has to be so deep and the whole boat floats and has to be held centered on the trailer while its pulled out slowly by someone in the tow rig. On steep ramps the floater would be hooked with no tension, and once pulled out/up on flat ground the trailer would flex and then the eye would have tension on it. Bammer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I will post more pics in the am we boat alot on the river and have to deal with the current and waves wind ect. we try to pull out real slow and the boat is moving up and down and all over. the landing drops off really fast and the bow is almost hitting the trailer thats why I dropped the cross brace holding the whole deal and added the roller. I have a fin just in front of the intake so I have to get in deep to clear the trailer. the leverage deal is what worrys me putting a rubber block on the way in moves when pulling it out also.I think your right it may make more problems. and like you said chop shop when its out of the water that SOB is so tight I have to push down on the bow to unhook it no good!! it seems like the boat always pushes to the right and puts alot of stress on the bow eye even on the lake with no current
 

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You will get more help in the V-Drive section... They know alot about trailers.....:))THumbsUp
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
You will get more help in the V-Drive section... They know alot about trailers.....:))THumbsUp
I think they will just give me shit because I own a jet. anyway this is what I end up with no matter how hard we try to keep the boat straight and if it is straight by the time I get home it shifts to the right. thats why im thinking a crank and rubber v block on a tower I seen a pic of what I was thinking on here I will see if I can find it
 

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I think they will just give me shit because I own a jet. anyway this is what I end up with no matter how hard we try to keep the boat straight and if it is straight by the time I get home it shifts to the right. thats why im thinking a crank and rubber v block on a tower I seen a pic of what I was thinking on here I will see if I can find it
why does the boat shift to the right? are the bunks long enough or the right height for the boat? the trailer should be set up so it sits correctly on the trailer whether the eye is connected to the floater or not. the only reason you would have to push the bow down to unhook that floater is if the boat is moving around on the trailer, side to side or back or forward.
it doesn't really sound like your problem is solely the floater bar. placing a v-block up there will result in connecting the boweye to a solid mount, rather than anything that floats. that will just put more stress on the boweye. they will break - i've broken several. just because the boweye is mounted solid to the trailer, rather than a floater, doesn't mean it won't break if the boat is moving around on the trailer.
i'd look more carefully at the positioning and height of the bunks. and like ray suggested, if the boat is wandering around when you're trying to pull it out, install some bumper extensions that can be installed/removed before launch or retrieval. if they're mounted right, they'll hold the transom exactly centered on the trailer while pulling it out. even if you have one on only one side, it's better than not having any. i used one for years on the swtd - was a total pita without it, easy with it. and there are a lot of flats that use those things to center the boat. way easier than fighting with the boat for 5 or 10 minutes on the ramp.

and even with all that, also like ray said, you can use a tiedown strap, fixed to the correct length to hook the eye for retrieval. if it's the right length, it will be centered right over the floater when it comes up on the trailer, so you can hook it up when you're off the ramp. easy and quick. used one for years.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
why does the boat shift to the right? are the bunks long enough or the right height for the boat? the trailer should be set up so it sits correctly on the trailer whether the eye is connected to the floater or not. the only reason you would have to push the bow down to unhook that floater is if the boat is moving around on the trailer, side to side or back or forward.
it doesn't really sound like your problem is solely the floater bar. placing a v-block up there will result in connecting the boweye to a solid mount, rather than anything that floats. that will just put more stress on the boweye. they will break - i've broken several. just because the boweye is mounted solid to the trailer, rather than a floater, doesn't mean it won't break if the boat is moving around on the trailer.
i'd look more carefully at the positioning and height of the bunks. and like ray suggested, if the boat is wandering around when you're trying to pull it out, install some bumper extensions that can be installed/removed before launch or retrieval. if they're mounted right, they'll hold the transom exactly centered on the trailer while pulling it out. even if you have one on only one side, it's better than not having any. i used one for years on the swtd - was a total pita without it, easy with it. and there are a lot of flats that use those things to center the boat. way easier than fighting with the boat for 5 or 10 minutes on the ramp.

and even with all that, also like ray said, you can use a tiedown strap, fixed to the correct length to hook the eye for retrieval. if it's the right length, it will be centered right over the floater when it comes up on the trailer, so you can hook it up when you're off the ramp. easy and quick. used one for years.
ok i checked out the bunks. I was looking at this last fall also but didnt want to just start guessing and chopping and F up the whole deal. the outers are 4 1/2' long and inside bunks are 10' but they 2x4s maybe a 2x6 would help and fit them tighter to the strakes? to keep it from shifting. Im all over the pipes on the back of the trailer those are going to be on by spring time and a strap to hold down the bow. I love this site!!! some of these ideas I was thinking could be the problem last summer but its nice to get a second opinion before I mess the whole deal up!! Should I make the out side bunks longer???
 

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2X6 Definatly. trailer towbar alignment,just cut reposition and weld. Groove in bar just to recieve eyelet. personally I have a Vee block on post and winch. works here in WI. When welding bar or replacing bunks adjust all so they line up.
 

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ok i checked out the bunks. I was looking at this last fall also but didnt want to just start guessing and chopping and F up the whole deal. the outers are 4 1/2' long and inside bunks are 10' but they 2x4s maybe a 2x6 would help and fit them tighter to the strakes? to keep it from shifting. Im all over the pipes on the back of the trailer those are going to be on by spring time and a strap to hold down the bow. I love this site!!! some of these ideas I was thinking could be the problem last summer but its nice to get a second opinion before I mess the whole deal up!! Should I make the out side bunks longer???
should be at least 2x6s and up against strakes, but look at the positioning with respect to the stringers in the boat. most of the weight in the boat is attached to the stringers, and the trailer should be rigged so the stringers are on top of the bunks (as well as next to the strakes). also looking at the pic of the short bunk, doesn't even look like the boat is sitting on the front of it.
i wouldn't even give the bow eye connection any thought until the bunks are fixed so the boat is sitting on the trailer correctly. just getting that done is going to help a lot. the boat shouldn't move on the trailer at all. when you have that corrected, either a vpad or floater will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok so ill go get some 2x6s. so what is the best way to lift the hull up enuff to replace the bunks? and keep the boat straight to line every thing up?? some how I need to get it straight on the trailer first or it will still be screwwed up!! There is no eye hooks on the transom to help lift from Im sure this would be alot easyer with the motor out but I dont really want to pull that out at this time if i dont have to. THANKS GUYS!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Floor jack on the pump intake in front of the loader, cherry picker on the bow eye
good deal!!!!! I was hoping that was the answer I wasnt sure if I could use the floor jack in the intake. cool!!! Thank you!!!!!!! I bet there is a thread on this some were on trailers I have to do a search
 

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good deal!!!!! I was hoping that was the answer I wasnt sure if I could use the floor jack in the intake. cool!!! Thank you!!!!!!! I bet there is a thread on this some were on trailers I have to do a search

If nothing else, you will see if the intake was set properly and if the hull is strong.


I would never pick my boat by the pump. Thats just me.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If nothing else, you will see if the intake was set properly and if the hull is strong.


I would never pick my boat by the pump. Thats just me.
ok what do you think?? Im open for more suggestions. pull the carb and lift off the motor and intake? bring on some ideas. there always more than one way to skin a cat just finding the right way can be the biggest challenge!!
 

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If you can't pick your boat up by the pump you got bigger issues than trailer bunks. Just my $.02

For what it's worth, I have used my prior mentioned method on every boat I have. No problems to report.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you can't pick your boat up by the pump you got bigger issues than trailer bunks. Just my $.02

For what it's worth, I have used my prior mentioned method on every boat I have. No problems to report.
thats good to know. I found a thread from Holoinhal on rebunking a trailer. my buddy next to me has a car lift a 4 skidloaders I will get it up enuff to block it up on the trailer one way or another. I dont think the intake has ever been taken out of my boat. I do understand what chop shop is getting at Im sure thats alot of weight to jack on just one spot with the motor in espesaly if the boat is week in that spot. maybe I can make a something out of wood to straddle the bunks to even out the pressure when jack in it up in the rear. Its all good info thanks guys!!!
 

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Even on my light tunnel the glass is 1" thick in front of the intake. If your neighbor has a lift, I'd use that. It'll lift the boat nice and even.
Do yourself a favor with your new bunks you're making. Get a paddle bit to drill the tops of the bunks to recess carriage bolts. Then through bolt and double nut them to the trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Even on my light tunnel the glass is 1" thick in front of the intake. If your neighbor has a lift, I'd use that. It'll lift the boat nice and even.
Do yourself a favor with your new bunks you're making. Get a paddle bit to drill the tops of the bunks to recess carriage bolts. Then through bolt and double nut them to the trailer.
:))THumbsUp:))THumbsUp thanks bro!! you guys are a great help!!!
 
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