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I currently have Bassett over transom headers with baffles, i have a chance to swap for bassett through transom headers (freshly Embee coated) I'll need to reroute a bunch of stuff to make the TT's work, and drill holes in my boat, is the payoff (less noise) worth the work?
 

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I currently have Bassett over transom headers with baffles, i have a chance to swap for bassett through transom headers (freshly Embee coated) I'll need to reroute a bunch of stuff to make the TT's work, and drill holes in my boat, is the payoff (less noise) worth the work?
Less noise at an Idle. The TT like to burn the exhaust hoses too. Seen it many times, almost watched a boat go down in needles when he didnt even relize the hose burnt through. Just a thought, then the holes you have to drill, I never like drilling holes in a boat...:D
 

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Engine junkie
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Absolutely worth the change over IMO, much quieter too. If your running a single wall header I prefer to drill and tap the back of the intake manifold to pick up the water for the coupler cooling line, not only does this make for a good consistent source of water flow to the coupler keeping it from ever getting hot, but also helps to promote equal water flow and cooling in the engine by relieving stagnant normally poor flowing water from the back of the heads.
Here is a engine build I did with the lines as described. Have fun.
 

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ah, No.........

Absolutely worth the change over IMO, much quieter too. If your running a single wall header I prefer to drill and tap the back of the intake manifold to pick up the water for the coupler cooling line, not only does this make for a good consistent source of water flow to the coupler keeping it from ever getting hot, but also helps to promote equal water flow and cooling in the engine by relieving stagnant normally poor flowing water from the back of the heads.
Here is a engine build I did with the lines as described. Have fun.
Actually the original flow pattern works better. .....MP
 

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I talked with a guy this week at my shop that has had a set of headers custom made, and were thru-transom style, he also showed a pic to me on his phone, he had them ceramic coated all one piece! they looked real nice, not like every other set of TT headers you see, different but badass!
He is supposed to bring the boat by for some rep's i'll get a couple shots and post them! i think everyone will have good things to say about them!
The only thing i did not care for was the outside of the hull where the pipes come through the hull, he had to use the offshore style of gasket with SS rings to fasten to the hull, (obviously to keep the water out!)
Todd
 

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Engine junkie
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Actually the original flow pattern works better. .....MP
MP
Do you have any research that backs that up? Not trying to be a smart ass really, its just the first time I have ever heard that from anyone. We always run a crossover from the rear to the front of the manifold to promote better flow in the back of the heads and block on the race engines in cars.
By the way the line size on the boats is only a -4 helping to restrict flow but also to keep the flow for the most part moving in its standard direction. Helps keep the back of the block from collecting so much sediment too IMO. Anyway I don't want to thread jack this so I'll stop with that, just curious.
BTW I always used the rewarder TT headers and their lower elbow to turn the flow to the transom, not bend the hose.
 

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"That Guy"
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its all about the angle of the flex hose, that you will have to use, if its a pretty big angle then you will have nothing but problems, if its a low angle straight shot from the header to the transom then your OK, thats my opinion.:)devil
 

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The noise reduction is impressive. I do not have to run mufflers although the stainless tips will accept the basset inserts. My problem has been blowing the exhaust hose off. I am using stainless t-bolt clamps,1/2 inch wide with a 2 inch overlap on the rubber over the pipes. I think I was balooning the hose to some degree. The 4 inch diameter exhaust hose I am using does not have the wire inside, but is thick hose,never the less.Maybe the length has something to do with it as well. My hoses were about 18 inches in length. My friend recently changed this with a section of stainless pipe in between the collector and stainless thru transome tip. The amount of rubber hose overlap exposed to the exhaust pressure is now about1/4 to 1/2 inch, on each end. The same clamps were used, 4 per side. I am using the bassets and run the typical water injection, but they also have a threaded bung which I send water to. I use a restriction to knock down the amount of water. The size was reduced after running it on the trailer using the garden hose. The restrictors were from rex for water injected headers. I did this for peace of mind incase the header injectors plugged up.
 

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E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
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MP
Do you have any research that backs that up? Not trying to be a smart ass really, its just the first time I have ever heard that from anyone.
Not to be a smart a$$, but I would enjoy research on both sides of this. maybe end an argument over it one way, or another.

Who has some?
 
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