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Discussion Starter #1
First off my name is Bo and I recently became a owner of a '70 Belmont flat bottom. This is my first v drive boat and as you probably guessed I have a lot of questions and am looking for some guidance. Rather than clog up your forum with a lot of dumb questions I thought I'd ask if you could direct me to any sort of a FAQ to V-drives (if there even is one out there) or some books that can show me the in's and out's of these boats. For example some of the questions I have not been able to get help with by searching here are cavitation plate adjustments and general operation, prop and rudder adjustments, general maintenance items, etc. Any direction you can give me would be great and thanks for your time.

Bo
 

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Bo, there are no specific resources as you have described them, however there is a wealth of knowledge and help here. You can spend your time reading back through thousands of old posts and will find the answer to almost all your questions. You just have to wade through all the crap (which is fun and entertaining most of the time but time consuming). If you have some specific questions feel free to pm me as I am somewhat familiar with Belmonts (I have 2 of them at my house at the moment) Greg
 

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Welcome Bo!

There are a pile of variables from 1 v-drive to the next so hang on. What works on a Belmont may not work on a Rayson (but it might).

There are no FAQ sections or v-drive "set up" books out there. Belmont flats are not common and there isn't much info floating around on what makes them work.

There's a guy named Bill Montegue in lake Elsinore with an orange Belmont flatty that works pretty darn good. I suggest you ring him up and copy his set up.

-Jerry
 

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Lookout I'm Crankin it Baby
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Bo, I have only one question. What is the strut angle?? This is very important. Please do not even use your boat until you have talked to one "Dave Rankin..."




























Welcome to the jungle dude...whatever you need, we are there for ya..got any pics of your wife or girlfreind??
 

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Bo, I have only one question. What is the strut angle?? This is very important. Please do not even use your boat until you have talked to one "Dave Rankin..."




























Welcome to the jungle dude...whatever you need, we are there for ya..got any pics of your wife or girlfreind??
Stop fockin with the newbie rattle-snake :)grn
 

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Purple headed member
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Bo, there are no specific resources as you have described them, however there is a wealth of knowledge and help here. You can spend your time reading back through thousands of old posts and will find the answer to almost all your questions. You just have to wade through all the crap (which is fun and entertaining most of the time but time consuming). If you have some specific questions feel free to pm me as I am somewhat familiar with Belmonts (I have 2 of them at my house at the moment) Greg
Bo, I have only one question. What is the strut angle?? This is very important. Please do not even use your boat until you have talked to one "Dave Rankin..."

Welcome to the jungle dude...whatever you need, we are there for ya..got any pics of your wife or girlfreind??
Case and point...................
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks for the warm welcome. Also thank you for the advice so far, I will check out some of the other forums you have directed me to. There is a LOT of great information here that has helped me out quite a bit so far. You guys seem like a fun group :D

Here's a pic as I was leaving for memorial weekend, sorry no girlfriend shots in this pic but if you are nice and help me get my boat fixed MAYBE she'll come back to the lake with me and I can sneak a pic :)




I bought the boat cheap ($3000) and thought what the hell, I can't go wrong at that price. I had been warned by some of my friends with boats that this thing would become addictive and cost me a lot of money and they have been correct so far. Looking back, I wish I had found this forum and done some research BEFORE I decided to jump into a flat. Everywhere I look with this boat I'll find something new that I have to fix, but that's the fun right? :) . The boat had a lot of issues and still does but I'm chipping away at getting the thing to look and perform decent. The wiring was garbage so I had to get that taken care of and so I re-wired the whole boat. Carbs were full of corrosion inside and the thing barely idled so I rebuilt them and they seem to be doing pretty decent now.

These two items were the major things holding me back from getting it in the water but after I fixed them I hit the water on Memorial day weekend for it's maiden voyage. The 440 dodge (did I just say that?) lasted almost a whole day before I found the oil to have that nice "milk shake" look to it and we had to pull it out of the water. The thing was blowing oil out the breathers too under load just making a big mess everywhere. That was a drag... later I found the "el cheapo" chrome valve covers had no baffling in them which was not helping in the slightest to contain the blow by from the worn out rings. I found on here that evac tubes in the headers are a cheap way to go and can pick up a little power too so hopefully these will help out next time.

After I got it back to my shop I yanked off the heads hoping to find a crack but I couldn't find any under the magnaflux. Short block is at the machine shop now and we are hoping to find something in the block that was causing the water and oil to mix. Either way, the engine looks like it is untouched with a lot of time on it so we are going to go through it and build it up right so I can have some fun this summer. I own a performance cylinder head shop so we will be "tuning up" the factory 346 casting heads while they are off too. It's going to get a mild mopar performance .509" lift/[email protected] cam I got cheap. If all said and done I can get 450hp out of the engine I'll be happy for now. I want to get comfortable with the boat and I think this kind of power level will be good for me to start out with.

Thanks for reading!
Bo
 

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A cheap boat only sets the hook, the real expense is coming soon enough....:D Welcome to the zoo.
 

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Lookout I'm Crankin it Baby
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Reliability is the key to happiness with a boat. Wiring is a great place to start. Fuel delivery is important. Good starter is a must. V-drive unit itself can be fool proof but it needs to be looked at and serviced. If the boat has sat for a long time I have seen corrosion build up in there from condensation. The v-drive is put away warm and then it sets for years with moisture in it. Rough on bearings. All the seals...,shaft log, rudder stuffer, plate control at the back of the boat should see some love. I like to take the complete interior out and then slowly back the boat in the water to check for leaks. If your lucky a squirt of grease in each seal will solve your leaks but I would check often for awhile.

I don't really know what your doing for exhaust. If they are watered headers I think this could be a source for your milky oil. The balance of water during idle seems to be tricky. Most lakes don't look at water cooled headers as legal. Pull the water out and go to mufflers. No mess with possible water damage to your engine. I'm sure there are diff. opinions on this subject...

Make sure and service your driveline in the boat. 8 bolts will pull it out and you can check u-joints and make sure they are in great shape. Another service area that gets overlooked.

Throttle cable and return springs need to be looked at. These things can get stiff without use and cause some major headaches.

For awhile I would run the best fuel filter you can...even if it's ugly. I get one from NAPA that is built for tractors. It's about 12" long and has a huge element in it. I was trying to cure some glass tanks in a boat and used one of these filters and it let me run all day without having to go home. Finally had to cut the tanks out and go with metal.


This is enough out of this windbag. I wanna see you have fun and stay with it. These boats are really pretty simple to work on. If you learn some basics you will fall in love like we all have but it you don't want to service them they will treat you like my ex mother in law...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks Lou.

Seals and the V drive are 2 thinks I haven't even checked yet, I will check out these items while the engine is out. The thing had been sitting for years, I changed the fuel filter and drained the tanks when I found all the crap in the float bowls. Throttle cable was siezed up too and the throttle return springs were uhhh "hokey" to put it nicely so I put some new ones on when I put in a new cable. U joints looked good.

I don't know what to think about this milky oil issue. I have a feeling the machinist is going to say the block checks out fine. Both head gaskets were still in tact (not blown), although after almost 40 years they looked like they had seen better days and could have been seeping. The headers are basset wet stacks, and my adjustment for the water flow to them got stuck WFO at the lake which I thought could have caused it. So, after I got back to my shop I unhooked the water lines to the headers, changed the oil and filter and ran the thing for about 15 minutes. Went to check the oil and same damn thing. That's when I said F it and started ripping it apart. I will take your advice and run them dry, that was one of my questions. They are at Capps coating right now getting cermakrome coated to keep them a little cooler since I won't have the water running in them.
 

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A cheap boat only sets the hook, the real expense is coming soon enough....:D Welcome to the zoo.

Aint that the truth....:D Have Fun!

Mark
 

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Bo, I see you are from Fremont, I'm in Hayward, if you need help I'm just up the road from ya. You can PM me.
 

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Break Out Another Thousnd
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Welcome to the pool Bo. Two things that should absolutely be looked at are:
1. Steering - make sure it has no play in it. The cables (if it uses that setup) should be like guitar strings. Play in steering can/will spit you out of the boat. Even at lower speeds.
2. Safety collar on the prop shaft. Make sure you have one, clamped on to the shaft right in front of the shaft log. This stops the shaft/prop from sliding back & hiiting the rudder in the event that the coupler gives way. This scenario is the culprit of many very bad accidents.

Your boat looks like it should be a lot of fun. Drag it up to Camp Far West resvoir Father's Day weekend. They'll be a ton of us up there. You will not be dissapointed. Even if the boat is not together, come on up anyway & meet some folks and check out how some other boats are set up. If you like stop by & say hi - I've got a purple/white Hondo flat. And if you get there before JDCowboys I may even have a beer for ya. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Bob is the man!

Just wanted to say thanks to Bob for spending some time with me today, he invited me over and I got to knock back a beer and shoot the bull with a "hard core" v-drive man. Real friendly guy and he was happy to share a TON of his knowledge about these boats with me. I hope I can retain half the stuff he said to at least help me get started fixing this 'ol belmont flat up. I got a lot of things to check out and a bit of work cut out for me it sounds like but hey it will be nice when this thing is all back together and done half way right. Wish I could have stayed there longer chopp'n it up but I had to get back to work. Bob spoke very highly of this group and said I can get some good help from you guys too once I get the essential stuff figured out. Well, wish me luck and I'll have some questions up soon that hopefully you guys can help me out with. You guys rock. ;)Thanks again,

Bo
 

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A cheap boat only sets the hook, the real expense is coming soon enough....:D Welcome to the zoo.
Well put, even when it's all done and running good you are still buying things for it !!!!!! It's not a boat it's an obsession !!!!! Then when you finally deciede you've had enough, you will probably end up owning two of them !!!!!!!:)sphss
 

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Just wanted to say thanks to Bob for spending some time with me today, he invited me over and I got to knock back a beer and shoot the bull with a "hard core" v-drive man. Real friendly guy and he was happy to share a TON of his knowledge about these boats with me. I hope I can retain half the stuff he said to at least help me get started fixing this 'ol belmont flat up. I got a lot of things to check out and a bit of work cut out for me it sounds like but hey it will be nice when this thing is all back together and done half way right. Wish I could have stayed there longer chopp'n it up but I had to get back to work. Bob spoke very highly of this group and said I can get some good help from you guys too once I get the essential stuff figured out. Well, wish me luck and I'll have some questions up soon that hopefully you guys can help me out with. You guys rock. ;)Thanks again,

Bo
Bo, It was a pleasure to meet you. It is nice to know there are some ambitous young men still out there that gives a shit about these things and I am more than happy to pass on all the stuff I have learned over the years. I know there is a ton of info I forgot to tell you and it'll come to me some time later, :)bulbhopefully not at 3 AM, I'd hate to have to call you just so I didn't forget. :D
 

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Red Blooded American
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Bo, welcome to the one great boat forum! You will find great wisdom as well as piles of humor as time goes by. I've had flats for 30 years and until I started hanging out with these guys on this site, I actually thought I knew something. I have since learned how to learn. The wiser you become the more questions you'll ask. The wisdom you seek can surely be found here.

Oh, by the way, welcome to real boating!!!
 

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Reliability is the key to happiness with a boat. Wiring is a great place to start. Fuel delivery is important. Good starter is a must. V-drive unit itself can be fool proof but it needs to be looked at and serviced. If the boat has sat for a long time I have seen corrosion build up in there from condensation. The v-drive is put away warm and then it sets for years with moisture in it. Rough on bearings. All the seals...,shaft log, rudder stuffer, plate control at the back of the boat should see some love. I like to take the complete interior out and then slowly back the boat in the water to check for leaks. If your lucky a squirt of grease in each seal will solve your leaks but I would check often for awhile.

I don't really know what your doing for exhaust. If they are watered headers I think this could be a source for your milky oil. The balance of water during idle seems to be tricky. Most lakes don't look at water cooled headers as legal. Pull the water out and go to mufflers. No mess with possible water damage to your engine. I'm sure there are diff. opinions on this subject...

Make sure and service your driveline in the boat. 8 bolts will pull it out and you can check u-joints and make sure they are in great shape. Another service area that gets overlooked.

Throttle cable and return springs need to be looked at. These things can get stiff without use and cause some major headaches.

For awhile I would run the best fuel filter you can...even if it's ugly. I get one from NAPA that is built for tractors. It's about 12" long and has a huge element in it. I was trying to cure some glass tanks in a boat and used one of these filters and it let me run all day without having to go home. Finally had to cut the tanks out and go with metal.


This is enough out of this windbag. I wanna see you have fun and stay with it. These boats are really pretty simple to work on. If you learn some basics you will fall in love like we all have but it you don't want to service them they will treat you like my ex mother in law...
Who is this guy and what have you done with the REAL RCL????:D:D:D

Good advice, but I don't know who wrote it...:p Welcome to the forum and the best of luck with the project...

Steve
 
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