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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the flames coming out from the flame arrestor when I try to start up.

I turn the key for no more than 15 second and press on the hotfoot. Once I feel it's coping without the starter, I let go off the key and continue pressing on the hotfoot until I get the engine revving up. Exactly when let go off the key I get some small flames come out of the flame arrestor.
I turn off the engine and once I could even see the small fire inside still continuing and pulled out the fire extinguisher but it stopped.

What could possibly be wrong with the setup or what am I doing wrong?
I don't think I should be having flames coming out.

Here's a short video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNnlyom7j2o
 

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x2 on what duane said... sounds like a timing issue. Get someone to help turn the motor over while you keep it runnin from the engine side and time that big dog.
 

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Could definatly be timing, a compression check might rule out a burnt valve. Did it run o.k. last time out???
 

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Float level might be high, dumping excess fuel into the intake.
 

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id say timing only because the last time mine did that it was because the timing was all F'ed up...

Much easier to get someone to try the starter while you get the timing light and check it out...
 

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If you can't find someone, maybe you can buy a remote starter switch. They sure are nice to have around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys. The motor started fine until I took it out of the water and did the repairs last week. I didn't touch the distributor though (might have been someone else playing with it while I was away).

How do I get the timing right? Loosen the distributor and rotate it slightly while someone turns the starter?
I know that we shouldn't be running that starter for more than 25 sec.

By the way, the 4th try did start the motor and the motor ran fine afterwards (did a long run, more than 1 hr)..
 

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Might check for a stretched timing chain. Pull the cap off the distributor. turn the crank by hand until the rotor moves. Make note of where the timing pointer is on the balancer. Now turn the crank by hand in the opposite direction. When the rotor starts to move make note again where the pointer is. This difference will tell you how much play you have in the chain. Your timing can "float" as many degrees as you have play. I'm sure others will chime in but if it is more than a degree or two you may need to replace the timing chain and gears. This is an easy non-destructive test. I bring this up because judging by the other issues you have posted about, it seems you have a quite a few hours on this motor.
 

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Another thought.. Just to check the simple shit first..

You mentioned repairs.. You didnt happen to pull the plug wires did you? Are you 100% certain you put them back on in the correct order? As long as that distributor is tight it should not have moved unless you did it intentional.

However two mixed up plug wires would make your engine back fire like that pretty easy.

this should be very easy to check.


Video how too check and set timing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYGU7mTwsZc

Its pretty basic.... but its for a chevy but i doubt a Olds is any different.
 

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Thanks guys. The motor started fine until I took it out of the water and did the repairs last week. I didn't touch the distributor though (might have been someone else playing with it while I was away).

How do I get the timing right? Loosen the distributor and rotate it slightly while someone turns the starter?
I know that we shouldn't be running that starter for more than 25 sec.

By the way, the 4th try did start the motor and the motor ran fine afterwards (did a long run, more than 1 hr)..
What repairs did you do?? To check timing..a dial back timing light is a bonus. You may want to try a search or 2 about it in the dyno area, but in a nut shell, I'd set it for 35* or so and do some trial and error from there. If you need any help feel free to pm me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The repairs I did are:
silicon the pump HH cover and steering, add nav light to the bow, change valve cover (adding some silicon between valve cover and gasket).

The distributor sits very tight, there's no looseness and I don't think it could have been changed by someone.

If it's bad timing, why did it start ok on the fourth try?

My brother will be coming over to turn the starter while I move the distributor but is it safe to turn the starter if I had flames coming out? It's not that I care much about my brothers hair, but just wish to understand whether I should be doing it or not...
 

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by just cranking the starter and using the light it should give you a rough idea where you are in timing. I would think as long as you dont give it gas it wont just start up.. You could allways pull the fuel line if it is a concern.

did you check the other things that were mentioned
 

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x2 on checking the fireing order. I had 2 wires switched and had the exact same problems. An engine can run on 6 and be igniteing the fuel with the intake valve open to cause the fire.
 

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If it's bad timing, why did it start ok on the fourth try?
If the chain is stretched badly, the timing can float enough to cause this. In my old 72 Chevy truck it would float 15* before I changed the timing set. Not saying that is your problem but it could be. I'm like the other though. check the firing order if you had the plug wires off to do the valve cover. Lean conditions can also cause a backfire through the carb. Is the fuel pressure good?
 
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