High horsepower with a 10 degree prop shaft angle
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It’s a Raysoncraft G model with motor facing forward shaft attached to harmonic balancer. Older circle boat. I know the Casele is 10 degree.
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First verify if the strut is 12 degrees. Many old boats have a 10 or 9 degree strut but still use a 12 degree box. If the rigging is correct that just makes the engine tip a little towards the front of the boat. If the strut really is a 12 degree angle then I would not put any more than about 400 HP to it as it will be very difficult to get a safe setup on that boat. It will want to lift the boat more than safely push it forward.
Paul
Paul
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1,209 Posts
No way on earth! There isn't such a thing as a 12 degree strut for a flat. It would never work. No way and no how. And, if there was, it would be such a crappy strut that you would not want to put power to it. (The more power, the stronger the strut needs to be.)
Take an angle finder and measure the strut and then measure the flat part of the boat right next to the strut to figure the true angle of the prop shaft. That is the only angle that we care about. A 12 degree v-drive does not make a 12 degree prop shaft angle. The only thing that matters is the degree of the prop shaft to the bottom of the boat. And there is no way it is 12 degrees. The boat would fly to the moon with a go cart engine.
We want to propel boats forward. But, to do so, we need them to handle. A portion of our power needs to elevate the boat out of the water so we don't plow like a tugboat. The degree of the strut is that "attitude" to get the boat out of the water. Big power circle boats want to be between 7.4 and 8 degrees.
If the strut is correct, and the right dimension from the back of the boat (meaning the prop is in the right location and at the correct angle) it doesn't matter if you have a 10 degree v-drive box, a 12 degree box or an 8 or 7 degree box. All the Casales are the same in basic strength and that type of thing. (Cuz if the shaft under the water is correct, the degree of the box only determines the driveline.) If your strut is correct and you have a 12 degree v-drive, and you don't want a drive shaft with u-joints, your engine will sit up high in the boat. Big deal, unless you plan on racing in circles. Or, put u-joints in the driveline and set the engine down further in the hull. I guess there really isn't much advice I can give until I know the true strut angle and the quality of build and material.
Once we get that, we can tell you a little more.
Take an angle finder and measure the strut and then measure the flat part of the boat right next to the strut to figure the true angle of the prop shaft. That is the only angle that we care about. A 12 degree v-drive does not make a 12 degree prop shaft angle. The only thing that matters is the degree of the prop shaft to the bottom of the boat. And there is no way it is 12 degrees. The boat would fly to the moon with a go cart engine.
We want to propel boats forward. But, to do so, we need them to handle. A portion of our power needs to elevate the boat out of the water so we don't plow like a tugboat. The degree of the strut is that "attitude" to get the boat out of the water. Big power circle boats want to be between 7.4 and 8 degrees.
If the strut is correct, and the right dimension from the back of the boat (meaning the prop is in the right location and at the correct angle) it doesn't matter if you have a 10 degree v-drive box, a 12 degree box or an 8 or 7 degree box. All the Casales are the same in basic strength and that type of thing. (Cuz if the shaft under the water is correct, the degree of the box only determines the driveline.) If your strut is correct and you have a 12 degree v-drive, and you don't want a drive shaft with u-joints, your engine will sit up high in the boat. Big deal, unless you plan on racing in circles. Or, put u-joints in the driveline and set the engine down further in the hull. I guess there really isn't much advice I can give until I know the true strut angle and the quality of build and material.
Once we get that, we can tell you a little more.
Thank you all for your responses. The Raysoncraft is in another city and I suspected it wasn't measured correctly so I verified it myself while I was there yesterday. The shaft angle is 9 degrees as measured against the bottom of the boat and I found a picture of my gears, there is a 10 stamped on one and the motor is slightly tipped forward. I had planned to use the new motor in my Sanger Hydro but I sold it after enjoying it for a few months because it was too small for two people. I'm working on a deal on a Hondo XH-511 which would be perfect but it is not finished and I do not own it yet. The XH-511 has a 7 degree shaft angle and is set up very well. My preference is to put my new motor in the Hondo and sell the 632 to a friend that needs a motor for his boat. I will learn how the Hondo drives with its current motor before swapping it out of course.
Any comments on this amount of power with a nine degree angle if I put in in the Raysoncraft ? The motor mounts are set well forward in the typical circle boat location. The current prop is 11 1/4 x 15 and gears are 18's at the moment. I may give it a try and post a video.
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Still a little sketchy, but much better than a 12 degree. If you want to try it be careful. With that kind of power I would make sure the strut is made of steel, not a cast unit, and there will be much needed in the way of boat and prop tuning. Two props of the same diameter and pitch will be completely different beasts. With that much power I would find a good prop maker and work with them on tuning the prop. They should also know how to help you dial in a setup for the boat. The best investment you could make is in good safety equipment for yourself. I got wet testing props and was dang lucky I was wearing all my gear. The boat flipped and landed on me. My Kevlar jacket was shredded and my helmet was pretty beat up as well. These boats are trying to kill you every moment you are on the load pedal. Be safe. That Hondo is a much better place to start if you really want to play with hat kind of power.
Paul
Paul
Thank you Paul you have convinced me. I’m not putting my motor in the Raysoncraft. It will go in the Hondo XH-511. A stage 3 marine motor with 1049 HP and 912 TQ at 6500 RPM belongs in a boat designed and equipped for it. That also includes the safety equipment.
Dart big M
JE blower pistons 8.5:1
Dart new style Pro-1 heads
T&D shaft rockers
Custom Bullet solid roller cam
Jesel belt drive
1050 APD 4500’s tuned on the dyno
Blower shop 10-71 w/7 lbs pulley
MSD crank trigger ignition
ATI balancer/trigger wheel
MSD low profile distributor fire only
Canton marine oil pan
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Dart big M
JE blower pistons 8.5:1
Dart new style Pro-1 heads
T&D shaft rockers
Custom Bullet solid roller cam
Jesel belt drive
1050 APD 4500’s tuned on the dyno
Blower shop 10-71 w/7 lbs pulley
MSD crank trigger ignition
ATI balancer/trigger wheel
MSD low profile distributor fire only
Canton marine oil pan
I will post pics!
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