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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A prior owner cut out the back of my boat in the transom/gunnel. If I glass it back, my tt basset on the pass side is going to be scary close in the back....like 2". Here is a pic of what I'm talking about as far as the "cut out part".
 

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closer than mine

Where my bassets cross my gunwhale is less than 2'', but that is near the end of a long collector on water injected headers, not near the front of the collector like it seems yours would be. Sorry I could not help more.
 

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lol, right.....
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Not really sure if its exactly the same situation, but where my headers exit there is not much more room between the header & the boat for my hand to slide between. The ends of the headers stop a couple of inches before passing over the edge of the transom and the heat of the exhaust will discolor the paint right there, but hasn't actually melted anything...

 

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Horsepower sells Engines
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two inches you should be good there is lots of air moving past, paint a small patch of high heat paint there and a way you go. and as far a melting... my uncles boat when though a total loose fire. the boat didn't melt it was all still there but you could stick your fingure though the hull, only the resin can burn but it would have to be really hot. im thinking for the strenght and looks you going to be ahead of the game
 

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tintingsandiego
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You could cover just that section with cloth header wrap. It would give it some hot rod appeal...One of my friends did that on his jet boat a few boats back.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
an aluminum splash guard would help if you are really worried.
I'm going to need all the help I can get...I'm lucky if I have 1.5" from the back side of the tubes, and from the top of the collector. Half the reason I wanted to glass it back was because as it sits now I can't figure out how to do a splash guard.
 

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Horsepower sells Engines
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hard to see exactly what your looking at from that pic
 

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Discussion Starter #11
hard to see exactly what your looking at from that pic
Basically the tape is where glass will be if I glass it back to the way it was orig. I'll put up a little more zoomed out pic. Everything from the tape up and back would be glassed in.
 

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Horsepower sells Engines
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those are diffrent than the ones in the pick you going to need to be a little more carfull with the pipes under the glass. your going to need to clearance it alot more or it probably is going to look like toms hondo. you might want to run that alum. splash gard like money sucker stated. maybe have it suspended over the glass to act like a heat shield on a car. use alum it looses heat way better.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Kreg, your thinking to much again. ;) Glass it back in and just cut a small notch for the headers.
Should I notch the drivers side too...only the pass side has a clearance issue(as far as being too far back). I know I'm thinking too much again.lol Some how I'm having a hard time wanting to glass it back,just to slaughter it again. I think I have a plan, we'll see. Btw Proppy if you get a chance shoot me a pic of the back of your daytona. I think I have an idea of what it's suposed to look like back there, but I'm not sure of anything....
 

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Should I notch the drivers side too...only the pass side has a clearance issue(as far as being too far back). I know I'm thinking too much again.lol Some how I'm having a hard time wanting to glass it back,just to slaughter it again. I think I have a plan, we'll see. Btw Proppy if you get a chance shoot me a pic of the back of your daytona. I think I have an idea of what it's suposed to look like back there, but I'm not sure of anything....
I can get some better pics in the AM if needed, but its just like you think it would be. Straight with a verry slight arch side to side (less then 1/4"). Inside lip is 3 1/2" and backed with wood.




 
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