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Discussion Starter #1
and what rpm's are you getting? do you feel safe with the stock rods..
Basic river boat with 500 hp build thats what im going for. What should i look for in rods ? Lets keep this real , i dont want to hear (buy "H" beams) when you are running stock:|err

Next week im going to put my order together for my build.... Im thinking about using the stock rods & crank (its .010) and yes i would get the ARP rod bolts if i ran the stockers.. My rods are 3/8 can i put the 7/16 rod bolt in them?

My build so far
454 .030
stock rods? use or not
stock cast crank cut .010 under
KB forged pistons
ported and polished 100 cc heads with SS 2.19/1.8 something
1.7 rollers
Dart intake with Holley 850
Comp cam Hyd
tci flexplate
Professional(sp) dampner
So far.

So speak up and let me hear about the stockers... I dont want to spend the extra money if i dont need to, that extra will help finish it and put me back on the water :)devil
 

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Quality rods are about twice the money of a set of nice stockers, peened and polished stockers work OK and are pretty tuff, I use powdered metal units that are slightly lighter and a little stronger than a set of I beam stockers, its actually a habit now. Ever since I bent a rod and could not prove or disprove why, I have stepped it up in that department and never had another issue.

My 427" Chevy had worked over factory rods, made over 650 hp and as far as I know, the guy is still beating the hell out of it, I used and abused that boat for 6 summers (18' Renegade jet, turned 5900 RPM and ran 70 all day).

Personal preference on spending the $, but work the stockers over (easy to put more $ into a set of rods than they are worth) IMO.
 

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and what rpm's are you getting? do you feel safe with the stock rods..
Basic river boat with 500 hp build thats what im going for. What should i look for in rods ? Lets keep this real , i dont want to hear (buy "H" beams) when you are running stock:|err

Next week im going to put my order together for my build.... Im thinking about using the stock rods & crank (its .010) and yes i would get the ARP rod bolts if i ran the stockers.. My rods are 3/8 can i put the 7/16 rod bolt in them?

My build so far
454 .030
stock rods? use or not
stock cast crank cut .010 under
KB forged pistons
ported and polished 100 cc heads with SS 2.19/1.8 something
1.7 rollers
Dart intake with Holley 850
Comp cam Hyd
tci flexplate
Professional(sp) dampner
So far.

So speak up and let me hear about the stockers... I dont want to spend the extra money if i dont need to, that extra will help finish it and put me back on the water :)devil
I personally alyaws preferred the 3/8 rod bolt rods, less recipercating weight, good idea to use a dremel tool and polish them you can do this yourself, smooth out all the casting holes, makes them stronger, then bake them in an oven for about 6 hours as hot as it will go, sps rod bolts a must, have them sized for clearance, don't pound the old bolts out, it actually will distort them, push them out straight and even.............. I have run a lot of tunnel ram 500 hp motors with them and punished the "Big Iron' many times over................. With a blower, I would recommend H beams.................. Also w/ stock rods, cam the thing for under 6500....................
 

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jetboataholic
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and what rpm's are you getting? do you feel safe with the stock rods..
Basic river boat with 500 hp build thats what im going for. What should i look for in rods ? Lets keep this real , i dont want to hear (buy "H" beams) when you are running stock:|err

Next week im going to put my order together for my build.... Im thinking about using the stock rods & crank (its .010) and yes i would get the ARP rod bolts if i ran the stockers.. My rods are 3/8 can i put the 7/16 rod bolt in them?

My build so far
454 .030
stock rods? use or not
stock cast crank cut .010 under
KB forged pistons
ported and polished 100 cc heads with SS 2.19/1.8 something
1.7 rollers
Dart intake with Holley 850
Comp cam Hyd
tci flexplate
Professional(sp) dampner
So far.

So speak up and let me hear about the stockers... I dont want to spend the extra money if i dont need to, that extra will help finish it and put me back on the water :)devil
I thought you were building a 496???:)eh:)

:)hand
 

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In my experiance you can buy a set of eagle rods for almost the same money as doing bolts and resizing your existing rods. my .02
............. The trick is not to buy anything if you don't have to, should be able to find somebody to give you a set, the bolts are cheap and I personally would never run a set of new anythings unless I check sized them and I plasti gage every thing............... Wrecked a few boats, but no engine failures............... Spend the money on a bigger pan w/ a nice windage tray setup.............Also where your oil filter screws on take the check valve out and tap the hole and put a pipe plug in it, then when you hold it for 2 miles your oil pressure won't drop when you get out of it..................
 

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Fwiw I ran a set of 7/16 factory 427 dimple rods close to 6k with no problems, but wouldn't a 454 be a little different story? I dunno. Repeat a little.
 

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Every One Has There Input Wich Are All Great Ones From Exp. I Hope. Mine Is You Will Be Ok I Have Used Stock Rods With A 2 Bolt That Made A Little Over 680 Horse On Becks Dyno Spraying. That Motor To Tell You The Truth Was One Of The Best Motors I Had Built. It Really Lasted 5 Yrs Before My Crank Broke The Snout Off That Sucked. I Have Ran Eagle Cranks That Did The Same Thing With H Rods And Broke With Less. I Had A Skat Crank That Broke In The Middle Before Too. I Trulley Believe From All My Past Exp. You Will Be Trulley Fine.
 

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Fwiw I ran a set of 7/16 factory 427 dimple rods close to 6k with no problems, but wouldn't a 454 be a little different story? I dunno. Repeat a little.
They will work fine in a 468 cu in, the 7/16 rods are significantly heavier than the 3/8ths and less rod material around the bolt bosses, they were built before there was such a thing a sps rod bolts................... I personally prefer the 3/8ths, either will work just fine............
 

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jetboataholic
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We go to Lexington and play Kearney Hill's GC every spring...................... Whats the drag boat action there?
Where's Kearney Hill's? The Bull GC is right across the river from me.


Drag boat action in Lexington, is about zero.;) I'm one of maybe 3 jet boats in the area and no V-drives that I know of. Only one of them could be called fast (but not drag racing fast), it has a 502 and tunnel ram, but I've never seen it run, only seen him put it in the river once, but he does run it elsewhere. But there are annual races nearby, click on link below. I'm planning on going to the KY Lake or Livermore races next Aug., I just recently found out about them, and was out of town when they were going on this year.:|err It'll be my first boat race.:)

http://www.kdba.net/

:)hand
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for everyones input.... I don't know if i feel better or not using the stock rods.. Last thing i want to do is spend a grip reconditioning stockers..

I want to build a bullet proof motor cause it will have to last for a long time....... Ive been thinking about this set up ?
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=22896&CtgID=22882

But i will need to call to make sure they come with file fit rings before i buy them... Im not buying rings twice.... Although thats been my history..

Buy it and sale it to buy another that works.....

Im done with that bizness:)grn
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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Thanks for everyones input.... I don't know if i feel better or not using the stock rods.. Last thing i want to do is spend a grip reconditioning stockers..

I want to build a bullet proof motor cause it will have to last for a long time....... Ive been thinking about this set up ?
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/product.asp?ProdID=22896&CtgID=22882

But i will need to call to make sure they come with file fit rings before i buy them... Im not buying rings twice.... Although thats been my history..

Buy it and sale it to buy another that works.....

Im done with that bizness:)grn
that'd be the way to go man:)devil i bought my current rotating assembly from cnc and they let you upgrade anything ya want. i upgraded pistons from srp to je, then upgraded the rod bolts to l19s,upgraded rings, only cost me another 250bucks for the upgrades and it was worth it. my rotating assembly will take 1600hp, and i'm only putting maybe 1250 on it at times.always over build imo, it leaves room for bolt on power later.
 

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steelcomp was here
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that'd be the way to go man:)devil i bought my current rotating assembly from cnc and they let you upgrade anything ya want. i upgraded pistons from srp to je, then upgraded the rod bolts to l19s,upgraded rings, only cost me another 250bucks for the upgrades and it was worth it. my rotating assembly will take 1600hp, and i'm only putting maybe 1250 on it at times.always over build imo, it leaves room for bolt on power later.
I would highly recommend not running a 4.25 stroke with a 6.135 rod.
 

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mo balls than $cents$
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I would highly recommend not running a 4.25 stroke with a 6.135 rod.
oops, didn't see that scott, you're right. i run a 4.25 stroke on a 6.385 rod. i thought he was building just a strong 4inch stroke motor, and buyin 6.135 rods and pistons for a 4.0 oe crank.
 

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498Bahner, I built the same motor you have listed. It made about 550 HP. Ran it in a jet. I did it like Violater said. I polished my own rods. Part of the fun building an engine is doing it yourself. Had APR 3/8 bolts instalded and resized. My crank is .020 under rods and mains. I beat this on the lake and drag raced it in 2 jets and a hydro. Ran at 6k rpm. It's sitting now waiting on me to freshen it back up and put it back in the lake boat. If I ever get time.

Tim
 
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