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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There are two patches(?) on either side of the stringer in about the same place and they are the same size. Is this normal or a repair? If it is a repair what would cause symmetrical damage? Just curious. There are no issues with it and it looks good on the bottom side. As seems always be the case I am posting pics that were not taken for the specific question. The boat is stored away from where I live.
 

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When I read the title I figured trailer stress, but looking at the photos, I'd guess it's not just from sitting on a mis adjusted trailer or a trailer with rollers, but also from when they pulled the hull from the mold and put it up on stands for the build.

The glass is pretty thin to begin with, couple it with the glass being "green" or not completely cured and it takes a set with the pressure of the cradle. And this might be a stretch, and it's never happened to me..... but when in a pich, we'd use 55 gallon drums for stands with blocks between the hull and drum = hull dimples.
 

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from when they pulled the hull from the mold and put it up on stands for the build.

The glass is pretty thin to begin with, couple it with the glass being "green" or not completely cured and it takes a set with the pressure of the cradle. And this might be a stretch, and it's never happened to me..... but when in a pich, we'd use 55 gallon drums for stands with blocks between the hull and drum = hull dimples.
Huh??:)sphss
 

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What about the hull taking a set from being improperly supported baffles you?

The location and symmetry lead me to this, but hey, feel free to postulate. Regardless, looking at the oil filter and hardware, you have some stringer work ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Those patches are different pieces of fiberglass than the hull. They each raise off of the hull about an eighth of an inch and have about that depth of a depression inside a 1-1/2" border. The stringers seem fine to me, they may not be good looking but they are solid with a couple extra holes. I don't see this as a big deal right now. I just want to get the tanks and floors in it and use it this summer. I plan to correct all the details this winter. I have yet to drive this boat. As for the oil filter, someone got lazy or cheap. It will get a remote mount this winter.
 

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What about the hull taking a set from being improperly supported baffles you?

The location and symmetry lead me to this, but hey, feel free to postulate. Regardless, looking at the oil filter and hardware, you have some stringer work ahead.
Well kinda. I have no idea of who you are or what you know about boats being pulled from molds, but when we did it it got placed on a custom dolly that supported the boat where it needed to be supported.It would only go on the dolly if the trailer was not delivered yet.

But with your idea of using 55 gallon drums and planks seems hillbilly to me. I will however agree that a wongfully supported hull over a period of time will take form of what it's resting on, but when you put it back into the water it will resume it's original form,or damn close to it.

When i read that and then looking at the 25-30+ year old boat it is possiable for trailer damage to happen, but to say it was from when it was new is just not in my understanding powers. Thats all.

Carry on.


To me it looks like someone did a repair to the floor, but hey, what do i know ........
 

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Well kinda. I have no idea of who you are or what you know about boats being pulled from molds, but when we did it it got placed on a custom dolly that supported the boat where it needed to be supported.It would only go on the dolly if the trailer was not delivered yet.

But with your idea of using 55 gallon drums and planks seems hillbilly to me. I will however agree that a wongfully supported hull over a period of time will take form of what it's resting on, but when you put it back into the water it will resume it's original form,or damn close to it.

When i read that and then looking at the 25-30+ year old boat it is possiable for trailer damage to happen, but to say it was from when it was new is just not in my understanding powers. Thats all.

Carry on.


To me it looks like someone did a repair to the floor, but hey, what do i know ........
Evidently not shit!...but a hell of a way to postulate dude!:p
 

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Well kinda. I have no idea of who you are or what you know about boats being pulled from molds, but when we did it it got placed on a custom dolly that supported the boat where it needed to be supported.It would only go on the dolly if the trailer was not delivered yet.

But with your idea of using 55 gallon drums and planks seems hillbilly to me. I will however agree that a wongfully supported hull over a period of time will take form of what it's resting on, but when you put it back into the water it will resume it's original form,or damn close to it.

When i read that and then looking at the 25-30+ year old boat it is possiable for trailer damage to happen, but to say it was from when it was new is just not in my understanding powers. Thats all.

Carry on.


To me it looks like someone did a repair to the floor, but hey, what do i know ........


Couldn't tell you, but as for what or who I am, I've got more than 100 hulls from Eliminators to Radons and everything in between, and a lot of years in composites. Butt you're not hear to learn from me...

I hate to break it to you, but custom dollys and frames for finished hulls were more the exception than the rule. Hulls were very often laid up with bulkheads and the deck on and pulled so the next hull could be laid up. Molds cost a lot and take up a lot of space and when they're not in use, they really cost a lot. Hillybilly to you maybe, but I'll be willing to bet that half of the boats built in the 80's were supported by drums and blocks, and ALL of them in the 70's.

And as far as a hull deforming and then magically popping back into shape, you must be running a Ocean Kayak or a Rubbermaid bucket. Once glass gets deformed, it breaks down, look at an impact and see the white-ish areas in and around it- that's a delamination, and often times a hack glass job will look like our speciman here... cut out the whoop and hot glue a piece of waxed cardboard to the underside and slap on the patch. Fill and sand the exterior and off you go.

And as far as a trailer not doing any damage to a 20-30 year old hull, a boat hull such as the one's were interested in are laid up thin and even with stringers and bulkheads, sagging, hooks and dimples will occur. The best cradle for a hull is in the water.

So yes, you're right, someone did a hack repair job to the guy's floor, Hell he and we all knew that. He was asking why. That's what I know. Carry this...
 

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Couldn't tell you, but as for what or who I am, I've got more than 100 hulls from Eliminators to Radons and everything in between, and a lot of years in composites. Butt you're not hear to learn from me...

I hate to break it to you, but custom dollys and frames for finished hulls were more the exception than the rule. Hulls were very often laid up with bulkheads and the deck on and pulled so the next hull could be laid up. Molds cost a lot and take up a lot of space and when they're not in use, they really cost a lot. Hillybilly to you maybe, but I'll be willing to bet that half of the boats built in the 80's were supported by drums and blocks, and ALL of them in the 70's.

And as far as a hull deforming and then magically popping back into shape, you must be running a Ocean Kayak or a Rubbermaid bucket. Once glass gets deformed, it breaks down, look at an impact and see the white-ish areas in and around it- that's a delamination, and often times a hack glass job will look like our speciman here... cut out the whoop and hot glue a piece of waxed cardboard to the underside and slap on the patch. Fill and sand the exterior and off you go.

Oh and for the record hre hotrod, we never used drums and planks to support our hulls, From the 60's to the 80's.....cowboy!!!!!

And as far as a trailer not doing any damage to a 20-30 year old hull, a boat hull such as the one's were interested in are laid up thin and even with stringers and bulkheads, sagging, hooks and dimples will occur. The best cradle for a hull is in the water.

So yes, you're right, someone did a hack repair job to the guy's floor, Hell he and we all knew that. He was asking why. That's what I know. Carry this...
Wow A hundred hulls.....bow down to the man........you have my attention skipper. You must know what your talking about! you have no idea to whom your talking to here, so we will let it go at that...........

Dimpled ride plates are the shiat, Hell we did an awesome experiment back in the hot boat days. Did you miss the world record jet boat jump?

Lay ups, yeah thats what were talking bout ..........Apparently you know very little, so i have somethig you can carry.........oh and for the record, we did own a howard mold for a minute........:D

Man i love fiberglass!!!!!! Its so erotic...........
 

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Evidently not shit!...but a hell of a way to postulate dude!:p

Feels nice not to be the only one here that is shaking their head at you, Princess. See? I do know you.

Hey, pay attention, we're helping the guy figure out what's with his hull, not his ride plate.
 

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Here is some useful advice...get on the road and handle it for him! Mr. Fill-D-Gash! (Hallettbutt)
I think a good chunk of advice coming from me?... would be to take it to a reputable glass shop, not necessarily a marine shop, but a F/G shop that handles F/G boat repairs, the bottom of your boat in nothing to mess with, just ask Tunnel Fever about his gullwing experience, Cyclone about the transom in my rogers? (I think Mudpumper has some pics that are deep in his files somewhere! lol) Have a good shop check it out, I cannot figure out why there would be identical repairs on both sides of the bildge!
A word to the guy that started this thread....dont listen to 98% of these Jack-off here on PB, they think they have a clue even if they've owned over 100 boats!
Definitely check the bottom though Bondo does wonders to F/G, not to mention color matched paint for those bottom bondo repairs! I have dealt with a couple when I was in business.
Where is Hackjob when you need him!;)
BTW Hallettbutt, if you did know me (Witch you dont!), you would have totally understood where I was coming from, and not tried to be the witty one here, leave that up to the pro's!;)
Todd "Just sitting here nodding away the day" Griggs
 

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You mistook the intended person of that post- Fut's. I was agreeing with you.
But what you failed to notice is that he is agreeing with me.

We never put our bare hulls on drums and blocks. I am familiar with delamination and know how to repair a hull. All that i was getting at in your first attempt to put forth your keen sence of knowhow, is that the problem at hand (thats really hard to tell whats really going on from the pictures) Is there is no way in hell that it was caused from the blank being pulled from the mold. Now be it a bad trailer bunk and years of resting on it or driving to the water way of choice could very well have caused an issue. It could also be that specific area in question could be a flex point of sorts and cracked at the strake. The riding pad ussually has at least 3 more onces of glass then the outerlieing bottom.

Better pictures of the area in question would make determining a cause easier.

Halletbutt,if you feel incliened to match witts, please feel free to pm me, Im always game.I might even learn something and that cant be all that bad now, could it????



:)hand
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Damn. It's going in the water the way it is, anyway. I am just killing time trying to learn something while I wait for new fuel tanks! Thanks for the ideas!
 
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