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i am going to change my 18 winger from manual place to Hyd. what kinda set-up are you guys running as far as a race stop vs full movement(lake playing for the rooster tails).looking for ideas.wanting something that can be easily adapted for when im @ the lake and wanna run the boat for a pass,thanks for any help Travis:))THumbsUp
 

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Look at b1s website he has some pics and I know around the first of the year he is making a run of them so give him a call and put your name on one
 

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Here's a simple design I made for a Bahner I was rigging,

As that might be ok for a low HP river deal, seems alittle sketchy for a boat with some power. JMO


There's a lot of stress on those parts


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As that might be ok for a low HP river deal, seems alittle sketchy for a boat with some power. JMO


There's a lot of stress on those parts


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I'm definitely never opposed to building things bigger, stronger, etc. So I'm not bucking any ideas or thoughts. That being said, this part has no relation to how much horsepower the boat has or how fast it is. The stop is not controlling or positioning the diverter. That is the cylinders job. The only thing this stop has to do is overcome the bypass on the hydraulic pump when the stop is met. In this case the pull strength on a 5/16-24 stainless nut is over 2000 PSI. If the boat is equipped with a Place pump, it will never see over 300 lbs of pull pressure and if it has one of my HP pumps it will never see above 550 lbs of pull pressure.
 

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Ain't Right Racin
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Ain't Right Racin
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??? Aint sure I follow that theory. Gonna require a timer to turn that pump off!!![/QUOTE[

The timer is for sure, but that's just so you don't have to hit a button to lift the diverter. The timer turns the diverter into a self automated system usually controlled by a micro switch on the pedal or carb. The reason for the stop is because hydraulics are nearly impossible or 100 percent impossible to control within a 1/2 a degree or less. A stop of some sort is a precision way of controlling the exact amount of up nozzle. Which is very critical.
 

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This one is on Rat Bastard, part of Those Guys Racing. 10 second World Champion Boat.
 

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here's mine. been using this same stop for 15 years. through 11 championships, including 5 "world" championships, and 2 boats...



cost less than $20.00 to make...
 

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In this pic, it looks like there's two stops. One on the PD ram and one on the tiller arm. Or are these two different things? Thanks
the one attached to the cylinder can be used for both up and down stops. the one on the tiller arm is a more positive up stop. if you're racing, you want these stops to be as solid as possible with no changes from lap to lap.

also, if the shift arm is used to either mount or somehow butt the up stop, the 3 1/4" mounting screws should be replaced with 5/16. the force will just bend those screws over a little time. no problem with 5/16.
 

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the one attached to the cylinder can be used for both up and down stops. the one on the tiller arm is a more positive up stop. if you're racing, you want these stops to be as solid as possible with no changes from lap to lap.
also, if the shift arm is used to either mount or somehow butt the up stop, the 3 1/4" mounting screws should be replaced with 5/16. the force will just bend those screws over a little time. no problem with 5/16.
Got it
 
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