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Ive searched back-threads but still cant find an answer. Previous owner of my wreidt got something jammed in the stock grate so he just cut off the fins w a grinder and ran it like that for a year. Im prob gonna buy a loader but i cant get the old remnants off. i heated up the allen bolts, then stripped them out trying to remove. cut grooves in the head for a screwdriver, ripped the heads rt off the bolts. I'm gonna try a left handed drill bit for removal.

Question is this, are these bolts through bolted or threaded? and will the new loader need to be through bolted. Asking bc i cant see a thing, theyre directly underneath my oil pan (wide sump and an olds motor). Am i gonna have to pull the motor for the install??

This is my first jet and havnt even had it on the water yet, depressing
 

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Jet boat service
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Good luck on that job. I have spent hours, many times drilling out broken loader bolts. In the stock form they are 1/4 x 20 and don't go thru the housing. If they are 5/16 x 18 they have been upgraded by some one before you. They may go thru the intake adapter and they may not. I would put a mirror under the pan and try to find out. Its going to be a bitch...Good luck. Jim :mad:
 

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Alright!!! Thanks for the encouraging words!!!!
Looks like it's gonna be a fun week.

Come on 65 views and only one reply, help a new jet owner out!!!

Anyone else with some suggestions?
 

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Schmiddy , Get the boat raised enough to work confortably, center punch the bad bolt heads an drill thru them ( buy a few high quality carbide bits ) then simply drill and tap the holes to oversize , 5/16 or even 3/8 if neccary Call if you have questions Tom

ps wear eye protection ;)
 

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loader bolts

Personally, I'd raise up the boat. Center punch the loader bolts and carefully drill a pilot hole thru[small]. Then remove the motor[only takes about an hour] and drill and tap to 5/16th. Buy grade 8 thru bolts and install antiseize on threads and lucknuts on top. All this can be done on a Sat morning. Pat
 

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get a supply of left handed bits, as you progress in size you may get lucky and it remove the remains od the broken bolts. drill and tap for 5/16 also if doing this with the motor in place i would try to put some kindof barrier between the pump and oil pan as i have seen more than one bore thru the pan when they break thru the intake, just a percaution.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
get a supply of left handed bits, as you progress in size you may get lucky and it remove the remains od the broken bolts. drill and tap for 5/16 also if doing this with the motor in place i would try to put some kindof barrier between the pump and oil pan as i have seen more than one bore thru the pan when they break thru the intake, just a percaution.
That was a concern of mine.

For the new loader thats through bolted, how do you install wo pulling the motor? Just very carefully with alot of cursing?!

thanks for all your replies
 

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That was a concern of mine.

For the new loader thats through bolted, how do you install wo pulling the motor? Just very carefully with alot of cursing?!

thanks for all your replies
You said it! And a lots of it! Be careful when drilling. I have also used masking tape on the drill bit as a stopper! Rap the bit with a good amount of tape where you want the depth to stop! The tape will help when you go through not to drill the pan! WT:)devil
 

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a flex head gear wrench with the nut taped or glued in will greatly help the installation of the nuts under the pan. also a double dose of patience wont hurt either.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Schmiddy , Get the boat raised enough to work confortably, center punch the bad bolt heads an drill thru them ( buy a few high quality carbide bits ) then simply drill and tap the holes to oversize , 5/16 or even 3/8 if neccary Call if you have questions Tom

ps wear eye protection ;)

Thanks tom

expect a call sometime this week! ;)
 

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E-7 Sheepdog (ret)
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That was a concern of mine.

For the new loader thats through bolted, how do you install wo pulling the motor? Just very carefully with alot of cursing?!

thanks for all your replies
That's how I did mine, standing on my head.

Good advice elsewhere that I cannot argue with, or add to.

I used Stainless 5/16" bolts tho, Grade 8's WILL RUST, I guarantee it. Change them every year or 2 IMO.

Instead of "anti-sieze", use a pipe-thread dope, soft setting type. This will give you both an anti-sieze effect on the threads, as well as BETTER corrosion protection there, and on the shanks.
 
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