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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Does any one know a trick for removing the 1/8 brass restrictor fittings that the waterlines attach to? There are three of the fittings that wont tighten all the way and leak slightly beause the threads on the brass fitting are stripped. When I tried to remove one from the header, I could barely move it. I finnally got it out by working it back and forth ,but I am afraid I might break one off.
will a regular fitting from a hardware store work, with 1/8 pipe and 1/4 flare or are they specially made? I know the one in the header has the same size hole all the way thru, and the one from the hardware store has a large opening on the pipe thread side and a small diameter hole only about half way thru?
Do any of You have any tricks for fixing the ones that leak and will not tighten all the way? I was searching and saw where moneysucker said to use jb weld. Dont know if he was kidding or not?
There has got to be a better set up Has any one ever made there own manifolds?.....Hal
 

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Pain in the...

I purchased all new fittings for mine- and when I tried to remove the old ones half of the threads came out with the old fittings. I JB welded the ones in that were stripped- that was a few years ago now and they still hold. That's one thing I have been meaning to address but since no leaks I have left it. I guess they would have to be drilled and tapped to a larger size then use AN adapters to get the lines screwed back on.
 

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sandeggo made his own manifolds for his LS headers. Might PM him to see what he used for fittings.You will probably enjoy his thread if you have not read it. He made a lot of the pieces for his LS conversion including motor plates and headers.

Post 321 toward the bottom of this page talks about the manifolds:
My first jet. 69 schiada
 

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The threads on the fittings are 1/8" pipe and I think #3 AN if the threads are bad in the nipple on the header tube then use a tap or heli-coil it and go to stright thread fitting insted of pipe fitting!
 

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Under yo mommas bed
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Heat the fitting with a torch, just enough to turn it a light red and then just back the screw out. Be careful to keep the heat directed to the fitting and not the tube.
 

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Anti-seize is you're friend here...applied once a season and mine are like new for almost a decade.
Also...squirt WD-40 up into the header drain holes to keep them from rusting shut.
And...pre-filter the water before it enters the Bassett T to keep the check-ball and spider lines free from debris.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
most speed and marine shops stock the water manifold for the bassett headers, I would just replace them.
Its not the threads on the maifold lines that are stripped, its the -an side of the brass fitting. However I was trying to remove the fitting from the header bung,to replace them but they are coroded or siezed in the bung so that they do not budge. i was able to remove one ,by working it back and forth ,alittle at a time,but I am afraid that one may break off in the header bung.Then I would be really screwed.
What i do not like about the lines are that they seem so delicate and You have to tweak the line here and there to get the female fitting on the lines to screw on to the brass nipple, staight ,without strpping the brass threads.
Hammerdown that was my next question ,if I can get them out ,would anti sieze hold up to the heat of the header?....Hal
 

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I used one of the cheap gas filters that has the clear section where the filter is. That way you can see if the filter is getting full of junk and just take it apart and clean it out. I am going to eventually make some new stainless end caps that have the an fittings on them.

Gary :cool:
 
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