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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, lots of different droops available these days. I'd like to hear input on them.

I run a Place HPH droop on the race boat. Works well in junction with a low profile intake,

I have an aggressor on the 21 daytona. It too has a low profile intake, I've wedged it up to ensure the nozzle doesn't drag in the water, but maintains low thrust line. Maybe someday I'll try the HPH on the 21, be interesting to see what if any difference.

Duane has his own product which I have not used or seen, Place has a very low droop which works with there add a ride plate kit.

Some of them have dividers, some don't, some people cut the dividers out.

I'm more interested in hearing about performance uses, not the added up degree to make a larger rooster tail.
 

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I know this isn't really a performance boat, but I was still suprised at the results.

I have a 21 Carrera with a setback pump, shoe-ride plate, loader and diverter with the standard Berk droop. It rode awesome over 40 and had a top speed of 65. The problem was it porpoised under 40. No problem for the river just go over 40, but now I live at a lake that gets pretty rough and I spend a fair amount of time cruising about 30. I had to put a 4 degree wedge down and put the PD all the way down to get rid of the bounce. I got a High Tech straight nozzle and it completely changed the ride. I run the PD at 0 and the boat rides great at 30. I expected to lose a bit of top speed, but I actually gained 3 mph.

When we ran BFJ's back in the dark ages, some boats liked a droop and some didn't. You just had to try it. I ran a home built tunnel in the 80's with a low profile intake and it ran better with a straight nozzle. Never tried the mini droop though.
 

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I know this isn't really a performance boat, but I was still suprised at the results.

I have a 21 Carrera with a setback pump, shoe-ride plate, loader and diverter with the standard Berk droop. It rode awesome over 40 and had a top speed of 65. The problem was it porpoised under 40. No problem for the river just go over 40, but now I live at a lake that gets pretty rough and I spend a fair amount of time cruising about 30. I had to put a 4 degree wedge down and put the PD all the way down to get rid of the bounce. I got a High Tech straight nozzle and it completely changed the ride. I run the PD at 0 and the boat rides great at 30. I expected to lose a bit of top speed, but I actually gained 3 mph.

When we ran BFJ's back in the dark ages, some boats liked a droop and some didn't. You just had to try it. I ran a home built tunnel in the 80's with a low profile intake and it ran better with a straight nozzle. Never tried the mini droop though.

Do you have a Carrera Eclips?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
has anyone done a test of a straight snoot, and a regular droop and wedged them so that the thrust height and nozzle angle are identical. I think that for a true test of droops that would have to be accomplished. Now the mini droops may not be applicable because the exit plane of the nozzle is different, maybe a 3" spacer before the droop to make a valid comparison.
 

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has anyone done a test of a straight snoot, and a regular droop and wedged them so that the thrust height and nozzle angle are identical. I think that for a true test of droops that would have to be accomplished.
I believe this would be virtually impossible to do, the included pin angle on the droop vs the snoot would preclude this from being a fair and equal test. If this was possible the straight would win hands down as there would be no dogleg.

This question is kinda like carburetor spacers, which one is the best? In the end it depends on a multitude of variables as i'm sure you already know.

Example: an average 19' boat with a standard set pump may like a Full droop, same boat with a setback may like a HPH better, same boat with a setback and a low profile intake may like a straight snoot even better.

Between these three setups you may be able to use wedges to achieve approximately the same pin angle and thrust height, however so many other variable have changed......my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I believe this would be virtually impossible to do, the included pin angle on the droop vs the snoot would preclude this from being a fair and equal test. If this was possible the straight would win hands down as there would be no dogleg.

This question is kinda like carburetor spacers, which one is the best? In the end it depends on a multitude of variables as i'm sure you already know.

Example: an average 19' boat with a standard set pump may like a Full droop, same boat with a setback may like a HPH better, same boat with a setback and a low profile intake may like a straight snoot even better.

Between these three setups you may be able to use wedges to achieve approximately the same pin angle and thrust height, however so many other variable have changed......my .02
I'm considering the pin angle only slightly significant, because I'll be using a place diverter with adjustable turnbuckle, so that the nozzle angle will be the same.

I really don't think anyone has done any significant testing with different droops holding the other factors the same. If anyone has please speak up. Going to river next week to do some testing with a data logger, so it should be interesting.
 

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I'm considering the pin angle only slightly significant, because I'll be using a place diverter with adjustable turnbuckle, so that the nozzle angle will be the same.
I understand where your going, but keep in mind when you move the Place Diverter from center to correct for pin angle you start cutting down the cross section and you also bend the flow. The I.D. of a Place Diverter is only 3.250 at the ball.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I understand where your going, but keep in mind when you move the Place Diverter from center to correct for pin angle you start cutting down the cross section and you also bend the flow. The I.D. of a Place Diverter is only 3.250 at the ball.
Yeah, I know. straight shot is most likely going to be the best scenario here. Definately some limiting factors in the overall situation to be considered. Another variable is the exit plane of the nozzle, how far from the back of the boat is the nozzle termination, that too will be a variable, a spacer would have to be added to compensate for the shorter droops. Putting the nozzle farther out the back will add lift to the boat as well.
 

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Yeah, I know. straight shot is most likely going to be the best scenario here. Definately some limiting factors in the overall situation to be considered. Another variable is the exit plane of the nozzle, how far from the back of the boat is the nozzle termination, that too will be a variable, a spacer would have to be added to compensate for the shorter droops. Putting the nozzle farther out the back will add lift to the boat as well.
Shorter Droops were designed for the Race set intake and Tunnel Hulls so as the Pin ball is not dragging under water... It still includes the 1" Drop while providing a nice transistion of flow in the Drop... Nozzle angle is reset to 3.5 Degree's Up at pin. FYI.

Josh has a good point on the Diverter with the angle set being a cut off at the adapter point... Aggressor Diverter holds a 3.300 Dia. thru the bore line... In time and with the torque now being built in the motors... the old squeeze of 3.90 will go away and give into 3.125 thru 3.250s and even larger... Its E.T.

PS: New number is 714-390-5900
 

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Have to agree. Pops is on it there. The Snoot opening is 4.250" into the nozzle. Now the secret is out. The Snoot does NOT bend the water at that smaller diameter either. Our new Race Nozzle also matches this exit diameter and follows the same formula ratio to the nozzle insert.
Duane HTP
 

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I understand where your going, but keep in mind when you move the Place Diverter from center to correct for pin angle you start cutting down the cross section and you also bend the flow. The I.D. of a Place Diverter is only 3.250 at the ball in stock form.
there, fixed it for ya... :)hand
 

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Have to agree. Pops is on it there. The Snoot opening is 4.250" into the nozzle. Now the secret is out. The Snoot does NOT bend the water at that smaller diameter either. Our new Race Nozzle also matches this exit diameter and follows the same formula ratio to the nozzle insert.
Duane HTP
im in the market for a race nozzle. got some pics and specs of on it?
 

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On the last test run with the Sanger, I tryied it with a stock AT droop and one with the divider cut out. The acceleration was better as well as more MPH, but it seemed to recover quicker. In circle boat racing the water is not smooth by any meens. The Sanger loved to fly, with the divider cut out it would refill the pump a little quick and that is big on a 6 mile run. I ran a 4* down wedge with my AT droop (Thank you CS19,MPD). This gave boat lift vs bow lift. We had to run the Sanger pritty loose to keep up with Lance as he had R&D Marine power vs our 530hp.
 

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Have to agree. Pops is on it there. The Snoot opening is 4.250" into the nozzle. Now the secret is out. The Snoot does NOT bend the water at that smaller diameter either. Our new Race Nozzle also matches this exit diameter and follows the same formula ratio to the nozzle insert.
Duane HTP
I don't think I said that.... The snoot put's a squeeze on the water as it drop's from the Bowls exit port size to the Ball socket. (2 very distinctive exit port sizes)What I think Josh said was with a diverter as the nozzle angle is increased the flow becomes restrictive to the Nozzle adapter inlet due to the turn of the diverters angle.

Your Extended Nozzle would have the very same effect with a diverter.
Same thing happens when turning a Jet, the flow gets restrictive due to the angle for turn.

I also have a problem with your nozzle matching the 4.250 Dia without a reduction.... How can you match up an internal joint without decreasing the
the next inlet..... You could make the transistion over a ball socket yet we did that one and its a giant piece. Why for... when the exit port will not want to exceed 3.300 on the largest of current motors today. I don't follow what you are saying.... or purpose.
 

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I understand what you were saying now. Sorry, I thought you had caught on to our concept.

I don't follow what you are saying.... or purpose.
I see that Dave. I'll give you a call next week and do some explaining for you.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!
 

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I have a custom one i built that was on my cole worked awesome on that boat and right know I'm doing some testing with one mpd built for bandy's cp tunnel so far i like it alot less nozzle angle to make the boat loose both nose and rear I'll prob be running 1/2* up or 0 when all said and done
 
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