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" Live Laterally "
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I have a 2011 Cheyenne/Ultra and straight out of the mold right off the trailer with a 509 750 HP motor with an AB stainless impeller ran a 11.90. After a year of just running it with NO adjustments other than a wedge we have moved the motor forward from 20" to 28" installed a diverter, stuffer, back cut shoe and added some fuzzy dice to the dash. My question is how much can possibly be gained by doing such using the same power? 1-2 seconds??:hmmm:
 

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" Live Laterally "
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Flying the nose dragging its ass :))ThumbsDwn
 

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How much does it way ? Get rid of the back cut shoe . Call Greg at GS marine ( 951 ) 272-6060 and he will get it to run the best it can .
 

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Back cut shoe from a 1* taper, is the only thing that has offered any help with my ass dragger, and now going with a 2*back cut deal, Bryans boat and mine are pretty similar in the ass dragging category, I am still at 24" off transom, can move much further fwd at this point, but I would if I could run it at 28-29 and there were no back seat.
This best of both worlds sucks, 19' tunnels are shitty family boats! lol
BYW Bryan 10.49 @101 is the best my deal has seen and it was at Elsinore.
 

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Back cut shoe from a 1* taper, is the only thing that has offered any help with my ass dragger, and now going with a 2*back cut deal, Bryans boat and mine are pretty similar in the ass dragging category, I am still at 24" off transom, can move much further fwd at this point, but I would if I could run it at 28-29 and there were no back seat.
This best of both worlds sucks, 19' tunnels are shitty family boats! lol
BYW Bryan 10.49 @101 is the best my deal has seen and it was at Elsinore.
Im statring to realize that a 19' tunnel really is NOT the best family cruiser too! lol Well Im keeping the back seat until I can finish my 21' so.......:|err
 

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I have a 2011 Cheyenne/Ultra and straight out of the mold right off the trailer with a 509 750 HP motor with an AB stainless impeller ran a 11.90. After a year of just running it with NO adjustments other than a wedge we have moved the motor forward from 20" to 28" installed a diverter, stuffer, back cut shoe and added some fuzzy dice to the dash. My question is how much can possibly be gained by doing such using the same power? 1-2 seconds??:hmmm:
1-2 seconds is optimistic.
The diverter is worth a small reduction in et when you get it timed right during the holeshot.
What is the degree of back cut?
Do u have a video of an entire run we can see?
What does the hull weigh?
What was the nozzle angle and ride plate angle before you made these changes?
 

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I have a 2011 Cheyenne/Ultra and straight out of the mold right off the trailer with a 509 750 HP motor with an AB stainless impeller ran a 11.90. After a year of just running it with NO adjustments other than a wedge we have moved the motor forward from 20" to 28" installed a diverter, stuffer, back cut shoe and added some fuzzy dice to the dash. My question is how much can possibly be gained by doing such using the same power? 1-2 seconds??:hmmm:


Whats your boat weigh Bryan ?? What kinda RPMs are you turning ?? You runnin a Droop ?? I'm gonna be in the same boat with you in HP and I was really hoping mine would run 10 sec class:)Unsure. I'm around 400 lbs

Oh and when I bought mine Doc told me to never put a diverter on it FWIW :no:
 

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Our Daytona would run 7.80 1000' with the same power. Iron head 509. 101 - 103 MPH Pretty sure it would be competitive in 10 sec class. That's what we built it for. It weighs 480ish and had a B/C impeller.
 

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Oh and when I bought mine Doc told me to never put a diverter on it FWIW :no:
X2. I was also told to not run a diverter when I had my 19' Daytona by my pump guy. Your boat has good power, so ride plate and nozzle angle will be the best way to change the way it rides.

Everyone has their input on the diverter and a "stop" should be added to keep your nozzle angle at the optimum performance. Without it, you'll never know where to keep the nozzle straight when making a pass.
 

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Oh and when I bought mine Doc told me to never put a diverter on it FWIW :no:
X2. I was also told to not run a diverter when I had my 19' Daytona by my pump guy. Your boat has good power, so ride plate and nozzle angle will be the best way to change the way it rides.

Everyone has their input on the diverter and a "stop" should be added to keep your nozzle angle at the optimum performance. Without it, you'll never know where to keep the nozzle straight when making a pass.
Let's not confuse a Daytona with this hull design. Totally different boats.
 

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Let's not confuse a Daytona with this hull design. Totally different boats.
Can we get a discussion going about diverters on a Cheyenne/Ultra? I can never seem to find that right spot, or seem to find it consistently when making a pass. I thought about adding a gauge, but don't want to drill another hole in the dash. I've been to ditch the diverter all together. It's a river boat. Keep it? Or ditch it?
 

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Let's not confuse a Daytona with this hull design. Totally different boats.
Can we get a discussion going about diverters on a Cheyenne/Ultra? I can never seem to find that right spot, or seem to find it consistently when making a pass. I thought about adding a gauge, but don't want to drill another hole in the dash. I've been to ditch the diverter all together. It's a river boat. Keep it? Or ditch it?
An up stop and down stop for the diverter is easy to make. The down stop can be a simple as a spacer or stack of washers on the hydraulic cylinder shaft.
 

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Cyclone you runnin a Diverter on you boat?

Jay just told me not to waste my money on 1. He tried one for a weekend at a race and said the boat didn't like it at all
 

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An up stop and down stop for the diverter is easy to make. The down stop can be a simple as a spacer or stack of washers on the hydraulic cylinder shaft.
How do I determine where to put the stops?
Use a digital angle finder to determine the up angle youre running now an or you think the boat runs best at and set the up stop there. You can launch the boat with 1-3 degrees of down angle
And that should keep the bow from rising too much at the hit of the throttle.
 

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Cyclone you runnin a Diverter on you boat?

Jay just told me not to waste my money on 1. He tried one for a weekend at a race and said the boat didn't like it at all
I have run one. It depends on the application if it will reduce the boats et or not. If your boat tends to wheelie and then slap the nose down during the holeshot then a diverter can help fix that and improve the ET. It depends a lot what type of nozzle angle you run. Most lightweight Daytonas run run negative nozzle angle so they leave the line fairly flat. They don't necessarily need a diverter to get out of the hole efficiently. Dominator's particular hull came from the second generation Cheyenne mold, which has a different bottom than the original one. His style of bottom doesn't generate a much lift as the original Cheyenne or Daytona and as such he may need to run his nozzle at a positive angle in relation to the bottom of the boat. If he does this then the boat will tend to wheelie during the holeshot. Mine certainly does. A properly set up diverter will fix the wheelie and make the boat leave the line more efficiently.
 
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